1975 Honda CB360 Brat style - Growing Up

Woodsy11

New Member
Hello One and all.

Since I was 15 I have always had a fascination with vintage bikes. I have always had a nagging thought in the back of my mind that I wanted to restore an old ride. I am not very mechanically inclined and definitely would be considered a noob on this site. I recently moved to Burlington, Ontario, Canada; into a modest little house with a sweet shop out back. I needed my first ever project to fill that shop. In July, I came across a 1975 Honda cb360 and I decided to take a leap of faith for $500. The bike is actually in pretty decent shape. The PO drove the bike regularly without much issue. Upon receiving the bike I got it running with the help of a new battery, new rectifier and an oil change. The bike ran, however it did struggle. The idle was poor and there was some bluish smoke (only a light amount) coming out the exhaust.

I haven't had a chance to start on the bike until recently and I decided to do the newbie thing; tear it down to the frame. I have designed/drawn out my idea for a brat style bike with the help of a neighbor (who turns out to be a wealth of knowledge as the guy has been restoring Harleys for 20 years). I have already chopped down the rear end of the frame as well as the rear seat brace. A friend of mine is welding in a new seat hoop and stability bracket (I am not welding inclined). While waiting for the frame I decided to tear into the carbs. They are actually fairly clean. The diaphragms are both intact and their is only a slight hint of any gummage. I do have one question....I have removed the jets and the idle needle and spring, however I am unable to get the Main nozzle out (see picture). There is no place to screw the nozzle from? Is it press fit into the carb or does it need to be tapped out? Any advice would be great. As for cleaning the carbs, I intend on doing the lemon juice boil. 6 to 1 ratio with water seems to be the most common way of doing it. I have read that the best way is to immediately put it into a hot water bath followed by a spray down of WD-40. Once again, please correct me if I am wrong.

This will be a major undertaking for me. I am really new to most wrenching and small engines. I ask that you bear with me and give me all of your patience. I do have the Service manual so I will be following as best I can. One thing at a time, slow and steady. I am going to enjoy this project and learn everything I can along the way. I like to look at in a way of my growth as a man. I know that may sound cheesy, but I feel that this is a coming of age tale for myself. I want to test myself. To start something and see it all the way through to the end.
 

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Should have had this in my into.

I am having an internal struggle on what to do with the engine. The PO has told me multiple times that it ran very well and he rode it regularly. I am undecided about opening it up to change out gaskets and make sure everything is in working order or should I just leave it for now and don't fix what isn't broken type of thing? Any opinions would be greatly appreciated.
 
If it runs, leave it be. Fix the rest of the bike and get it on the road. Only after riding it for a while will you know what needs to be done to the engine.
 
Brodie said:
If it runs, leave it be. Fix the rest of the bike and get it on the road. Only after riding it for a while will you know what needs to be done to the engine.

+ 1

Ride it, and just start collecting parts for the rebuild, take your time and pick them up as you find the good deals.
 
Hey Woodsy, looks like your bike is in great condition to start with! I'll definitely be following your build
 
Hey all.

So I have finally started some significant work on the bike. The frame is still away so I figured I would get going on the carbs and wheels. The carbs were stripped, cleaned and painted and have been reassembled. I decided to paint the float bowls and top caps black to go with the future pattern of the bike. As for the wheels, I got the tires off today and have already started sanding down and cleaning up the wheel hubs. Tomorrow I am planning to de-spoke the wheels and start some rust removal. Overall the wheels and spokes are in solid condition. A little bit of surface rust with only a bit of pitting. I have also drained the forks, installed new seals, filled up with new fork oil and I am in the process of painting the legs. Primer went on today. Pictures of all to follow tomorrow.
 
Update

Carbs are done. Painted and ready to go on the bike. Forks are done. Painted and I have put fresh fork dust covers on. Brake hub cap painted and new grooved brake shoes installed. I got the spokes off the rear rim yesterday and I will do the front rim tomorrow. After that it will be sanding and cleaning the wheel hubs and rims.

Some parts arrived in the mail yesterday! Pumped to really get going on this project. New Hagon shocks!! So sweet.
 

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Woodsy! Things are looking good for you man. I was also looking into Hagon's. Please keep me posted on how you like them and advise if you can. Nice work on the frame too! That is my next step as I was going to ask the forum where exactly to cut at the back. Did you get advice or just go for it?

Keep up the good work man.
 
Saturdays

I definitely did a massive amount of research on the forum before cutting. Asked around a bit and decided to go for it. I wanted it to be in line with my rear wheel axle once the hoop was put on. It is slightly behind it but I wanted it to be a 1 seater. I will keep you advised on the Hagons.

Here are some pictures of my frame. Finally got it back from my welder friend. He did a fantastic job. About a 10 degree angle at the back to avoid tire rub.
 

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Awesome man, that looks great! Ya I am going to post some pics of my frame and get some advice when it comes time. I don't want to mess that up.. Looking forward to using the angle grinder tho! that thing is bad ass! lol

Keep it up!
 
Hello All

Finally getting back into the groove after a long and busy Christmas holiday. I have gotten both wheels stripped down to the hubs and I got the old wheel bearings out yesterday. I came across a problem with the new bearings I have ordered from All Balls. On the old bearing there is a built in spacer that gives 2mm or so more clearance for the spacer to sit on. The new bearing has no such build up. Please see pictures below to understand what I mean. Anyone know anything about this issue? Can I still press in the new bearings to seat against the spacer even without that extra 2mm?? Please any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 

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No - you need a solid structure side-to-side between the swingarms or forks. The spacers provide this structure, to eliminate side load on the wheel bearings.

If you have a 2mm gap between the bearings in the hub, all the load from the wheel will go directly onto the bearings and you'll ruin them quickly, likely seizing them up and throwing you off the bike into oncoming traffic.

You need a longer spacer, which is not a big deal. I've honestly never seen a bearing like that. What does the other side look like? Any numbers on the bearing?
 
Also, just want to add. I have 1969 CL350 rims on my 360.

I dont ever recall seeing anyone post a bearing like that coming from any 360.

Is it from the front disc brake hub? Maybe ask PJ if hes ever seen anything like that.

Could be some previous owner installed the wrong bearing in it.
 
That looks like the rear wheel bearings?
I've never seen front's with the spacer/reducer (and I've seen a LOT of 350/360 wheels)
Spacer should tap out of bearing reasonably easy using an alloy drift, steel will distort/damage it, brass may be just hard enough to cause damage to the bit inside bearing bore
The bearings should be the same both sides in front disk hub.
Looking at pics, the hub itself looks a bit odd, can you post picture of the 'other side'?
Looks like it may have some sort of bearing extension added?
Enlarging pic, looks like one ends **02 RS the other 6304? That would be rears not front's
 
Thanks for all the replies everyone.

I have attached a few more pictures of the bearings and the rear hub. Sorry that I didn't specify in my original post that indeed it is from the rear hub. Bad set up in the photo with the cup in the background.

The spacer/bearing extension is part of the bearing itself. It can not be pressed or tapped out in any way. The bearings in the front hub are both the same and the set I got from All balls fit perfectly.

PJ - The old bearing #63042RS
new bearing - #6304RD kml

Let me know if I can take any other pictures/different angles.
 

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