1975 Yamaha RD350(LC) Preservation-mod Hellride

Check it for leaks inboard of the bottom seam. That's where mine leaked. POR15 kit worked well.
Wish I'd known about this in August. The cap on mine was still fine after the wreck (tank was banged up pretty bad, though).
BTW, that is the correct color decal for a Geneva Green tank.Tomey has a bunch of custom 400s thst have John Deere yellow decals.
 
Last edited:
Just a bummer that the tank is gonna make this thing SOOOOO much heavier than a certain bobber..... ;);)
 
Check it for leaks inboard of the bottom seam. That's where mine leaked. POR15 kit worked well.
Wish I'd known about this in August. The cap on mine was still fine after the wreck (tank was banged up pretty bad, though).
BTW, that is the correct color decal for a Geneva Green tank.Tomey has a bunch of custom 400s thst have John Deere yellow decals.
This metal tank doesn’t leak. The fiberglass tank was previously wrecked, I repaired it, then it bubbles paint.
 
Epoxy liner in the fiberglass tank perhaps? If you could get some abrasion on the inside of that tank I would have to imagine something like the caswell liner would stick pretty well and stop any weeping?


Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
 
Epoxy liner in the fiberglass tank perhaps? If you could get some abrasion on the inside of that tank I would have to imagine something like the caswell liner would stick pretty well and stop any weeping?


Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
Yeah, for sure Caswell or even Por15 will do the trick. I’m more into limiting risk and preventing from losing a one-off vintage part. I’ll line it and run it on track when those days come.

Here’s what’s going on:
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1795.jpeg
    IMG_1795.jpeg
    1.7 MB · Views: 88
Did a ton of modifications to 350 LC's in the 80's to 90's, almost all using stock parts and keeping things mostly streetable to get a bit better mileage before re-build.
After 40+ years I've forgotten just about everything though but do remember spending time flowing reed blocks made them better than any of the aftermarket stuff Boysen being 'the hot set up' if you wanted mid range but not so good for top end that everyone wanted (learned that on the air cooled singles and twins swapping things around)
 
Is that a white CB160 I see hiding behind that tank? If you need parts, let me know.

Might be time to take a mold off that old tank and make a new carbon fiber tank. Just sayin' .....

If I had taken a mold off this one, I'd make you a tank, but I didn't. I skinned/wrapped a slimmed down stock tank and a side cover and oil tanks to make this one which covers a one gallon fuel cell. If I can do it, I know you can.
 

Attachments

  • DSCN1656.JPG
    DSCN1656.JPG
    2.9 MB · Views: 61
Is that a white CB160 I see hiding behind that tank? If you need parts, let me know.

Might be time to take a mold off that old tank and make a new carbon fiber tank. Just sayin' .....

If I had taken a mold off this one, I'd make you a tank, but I didn't. I skinned/wrapped a slimmed down stock tank and a side cover and oil tanks to make this one which covers a one gallon fuel cell. If I can do it, I know you can.
Thanks, Teazer. I’ll reach out. Most of it is in boxes, but I think it’s mostly there.

As far as the tanks, I did a Por15 coat in both. We’ll see, but I’ve had really good luck with the Por15 liners.

IMG_1815.jpeg
 
This was the CB160 I sold back to the guy that gave it to me.... Apart from the visual modifications, I also fitted an LED headlamp bulb, solid state regulator/rectifier from Sparckmoto and I fitted a relay in the starter circuit to turn the lights off when the starter button is pushed. Rear fender was bobbed and the original end piece was welded back on to make it look stock(but shorter). Forks are CL or upright CB175 I don't recall which. They are the same internally as the steel slider CB160 but lighter and allowed me to fit gaiters. rear sets were Dunstall CB350 but I had to make new curved lever arms and had them chromed. Kickstarter was an ebay Z50 or pit bike heated and bent to clear the pegs and the side stand (kickstand) was mounted to where the stock footpeg shaft goes.
 

Attachments

  • DSCN1606 (Medium).JPG
    DSCN1606 (Medium).JPG
    333.4 KB · Views: 70
This was the CB160 I sold back to the guy that gave it to me.... Apart from the visual modifications, I also fitted an LED headlamp bulb, solid state regulator/rectifier from Sparckmoto and I fitted a relay in the starter circuit to turn the lights off when the starter button is pushed. Rear fender was bobbed and the original end piece was welded back on to make it look stock(but shorter). Forks are CL or upright CB175 I don't recall which. They are the same internally as the steel slider CB160 but lighter and allowed me to fit gaiters. rear sets were Dunstall CB350 but I had to make new curved lever arms and had them chromed. Kickstarter was an ebay Z50 or pit bike heated and bent to clear the pegs and the side stand (kickstand) was mounted to where the stock footpeg shaft goes.

Great looking scooter. Do you have info on the relay you used? I will be putting one on the Eldo.
 
It was a simple 5 pin relay so it has one pin Normally Closed and it opens to send power to the starter relay.
 
This was the CB160 I sold back to the guy that gave it to me.... Apart from the visual modifications, I also fitted an LED headlamp bulb, solid state regulator/rectifier from Sparckmoto and I fitted a relay in the starter circuit to turn the lights off when the starter button is pushed. Rear fender was bobbed and the original end piece was welded back on to make it look stock(but shorter). Forks are CL or upright CB175 I don't recall which. They are the same internally as the steel slider CB160 but lighter and allowed me to fit gaiters. rear sets were Dunstall CB350 but I had to make new curved lever arms and had them chromed. Kickstarter was an ebay Z50 or pit bike heated and bent to clear the pegs and the side stand (kickstand) was mounted to where the stock footpeg shaft goes.
So, basically what you're saying is that a CB160 makes a pretty great cafe.
 
I think so. But it's a small bike for sure. They do respond well to a 175 head and decent street cam and a touch or porting too.

And I know someone with a pile of spare parts including a 180 degree crank and matching special grind race cam if you want something a little special. :)
 
..Irk I think you should turn that 160 into a little fire-breather!! Keep all that original white paint, It's perfect
 
..Irk I think you should turn that 160 into a little fire-breather!! Keep all that original white paint, It's perfect
"180 degree crank and matching special grind race cam" sounds like the perfect date.
 
You can overbore a 160 using CB77 (305cc) liners and pistons. Makes a 250 but the sleeves are visible through the fins. A bit of aluminum weld takes care of that or you can enjoy the red hot glow after dark. This is an old speed trick found in the old Cycle Guide magazines. Adding a good cam grind and carbs makes for a very interesting ride. Way back in time a company called Racecrafters made intake manifolds to fit CB77 carbs to the 160 engine.
 
We found the mildest Megacycle cam to give best on track performance with a mild to wild 160 or 175. On a 250, you can go with a wilder cam. best heads are CB200 or later 175. Fins are different but the same raised ports. 160 has the worst ports and sloper 175 are a bit better but still far from ideal. Yes to Cb77 liners, but slip into a set of sloper 175 barrels for a neater look without the liners showing. CB77 pistons have a larger diameter pin IIRC, so if you go that way, you might need a CB200 crank, clutch and barrels and the 200 already has the larger pin and 55.5mm pistons. Good way to go for a 250 class racer. We used a 200 head, welded and machined head, modified Wiseco Z650 pistons and VM26 carbs.

For a 200 class racer, I would use a 160/175 crank, 5 speed transmission in modified CB160 cases or CB175 sloper cases, megacycle street cam, Cb175 vertical head which has larger valves than a 160, PW24 carbs off an SL350 or 26mm carbs from a CB77. And for pistons check out pit bike stores for a 56 or 57mm piston. If you can only find a low crown piston, machine the barrels to be a mm or two shorter and machine the piston to get a decent squish band, machine a chunk off the head and cut a matching squish band into it (works well with a 160 head too). Or build a 180 crank motor with a decent cam chain guide, dyna ignition on the crank, needle roller cam caps and so on. Lots of options.

I like the idea of white paint and looking like it was dragged out of the barn. Total sleeper look. Not the way I like to roll but I like the idea.
 
Back
Top Bottom