1976 CB550K Simplified Wiring Harness Questions

[72BlackonBlack]

Hey guys, I am trying to rebuild my wiring harness and going for the more simplified "bare-bones" idea. No turn lights, horn, gauges, switches, etc... I have attached a modified wiring diagram and I wanted to run it by the community to see what needs to be changed or altered. When I bought the bike, the switches had already been removed so the wiring was already modified. I am basically trying to start from scratch.

Keep in mind:
- I know the headlight doesn't have power going to it in the diagram. I have a fused line going directly to the battery with a switch.
- I do not have any handlebar switches
- This has a solid state regulator/rectifier
- It is kick-only

I am a relative newb to electrical, and am far more familiar with American car wiring, so I know I am kinda stepping in a little above my head on this one. If things need to be changed, no need to crucify me, just let me know and I can/will change it.

 

[Bert Jan]

Well, it's difficult to check a non-existing diagram... But as far as i can see;

1) The clutch operated switch is not neccesary, whats the reason you have it on?
2) You still have the starter magnetic switch. (the one top-right under the smblabla unit.) no need for that as you have kick only
3) i would hook up the taillight to the headlight and not thru the ingnition lock.
4) no switches? whats the imergency switch doing there then? (black/white&black wire) Connect the black/white directly to black.

that's it. Could you update the drawing? i will check it again then

 

[Bert Jan]

And i don't think your headlight will work on 1 wire :
Green is ground, so thats good. You'll have to install a switch between black (+) and the headlight positive. When you run a dual bulb, (like 30/55 watts) connect 2 wires between the switch and the headlamp instead of 1 and use a 3-settings switch. (off/low/high) You do want a 'off' setting as the headlight draws a lot of current from the battery. When you install the headlight without the 'off' setting you can easily empty the battery in the occasion the bike has a problem starting. And you probably know that 550's don't start with empty battery. Since you're stripping the bike down to essentials i suggest using a smaller battery with minimal 6 amps.
That way the bike will start on kick and you can hide such a small battery about anywhere.
Enough threads about such batteries, its the type without the acid and you can flip them any side you want.

Just make sure the ingition lock is connection the red wire (always hot) to the black wire (hot when switched with key) and you're good to go!


Like this:
Note i've connected the "clutch wire" to earth and the black/white to black.
The headlamp switch does af follows:

1)Connect black to nothing - lights off
2)Connect black to blue and brown - low lights on
3)Connect black to pink and brown - high lights on

The pink in the diagram is usualy white but white can't be seen on white, thats why i chose pink.

 

[StrangeXJ86]

umm, for the most part i guess. I'm not trying to eliminate my turn signals or anything like that. i was more refering to if it was possible to minimize the electrical components, that exist behind the side ferrings, to newer or aftermarket parts so that it all can be compact enough with the battery to fit underneath a cafe seat bump.

 

[Bert Jan]

umm, for the most part i guess. I'm not trying to eliminate my turn signals or anything like that. i was more refering to if it was possible to minimize the electrical components, that exist behind the side ferrings, to newer or aftermarket parts so that it all can be compact enough with the battery to fit underneath a cafe seat bump.

I'm sorry, but eeh.. what?

 

[StrangeXJ86]

haha sorry this was meant for my own post. my mistake

 

[Tremelune]

Throw a pair of relays to the headlight highs/lows. Mo brightness for free.

If you're going kickstart-only, you don't need a battery at all. That's the best part about kickstart-only! Get a capacitor about the size of a D battery with screw posts and wire it in place of the battery. If it's rated for anything higher than 15V (eg 50V), it should work. They're extremely cheap, light, and they never die. Provided your charging system can handle all components, the system will operate at full capacity.