Trevor May
Been Around the Block
Then they took the third valve out!
1976 Honda CB360T - The first step is admitting I have a problem build
- Thread starter 620dark
- Start date
620dark
You can always get it running with time or money.
Yea, I saw the procedure for adjusting the valves with the special tool. What a pain.
After talking to the guy with the 750 again, he now would like to pay me to get it running for him. The kid really wants something he can ride after he finishes up his MSF course and gets his endorsement. A couple hundred extra bucks is always nice, but then their's the liability of working on someone else's junk, and the chance that I might not be able to get it running.
Maybe I should just have him bring the thing over so I can go through it and see how bad or good things are. PJ, do you have the special tool lying around?
After talking to the guy with the 750 again, he now would like to pay me to get it running for him. The kid really wants something he can ride after he finishes up his MSF course and gets his endorsement. A couple hundred extra bucks is always nice, but then their's the liability of working on someone else's junk, and the chance that I might not be able to get it running.
Maybe I should just have him bring the thing over so I can go through it and see how bad or good things are. PJ, do you have the special tool lying around?
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
Nope, I was working at a Suzuki dealers so got them to buy it if they wanted me to work on the junk.
For about 2 years I was fixing cam chain tensioners and gear drives, at least one or two a week. Ended up going back to the Honda shop, where didn't work on VF's at all ;D
It's simple enough to make though, basically you just have a 'hook' that fits into end of cam with a threaded section to pull cam up into top bearing, bit like a miniature 'C' clamp
For about 2 years I was fixing cam chain tensioners and gear drives, at least one or two a week. Ended up going back to the Honda shop, where didn't work on VF's at all ;D
It's simple enough to make though, basically you just have a 'hook' that fits into end of cam with a threaded section to pull cam up into top bearing, bit like a miniature 'C' clamp
Tremelune
Been Around the Block
Great build. It has reinvigorated my research on squeezing every drop of electrical power out of the CB motor. I'd be very interested in your findings, should you ever get your rewound stator working:
http://www.hondatwins.net/forums/50-electrical-discussion/18510-diy-stator-rewind-2.html
Specifically, are you sure your windings represent a working three-phase configuration? It somehow still seems like single-phase, despite the three wires. Feel free to comment in that thread (or not at all) if you don't want to derail your build for my theoretical minutia...
http://www.hondatwins.net/forums/50-electrical-discussion/18510-diy-stator-rewind-2.html
Specifically, are you sure your windings represent a working three-phase configuration? It somehow still seems like single-phase, despite the three wires. Feel free to comment in that thread (or not at all) if you don't want to derail your build for my theoretical minutia...
620dark
You can always get it running with time or money.
I didn't get my rewound stator working, and for the time invested, I'd suggest just getting the Hot Shot setup from Dime City. It's not super cheap, but the folks who have bought them seem happy with them. I believe that the Hot Shot is a three phase system...
What got my system working well was Sonreir's RR plus the stock stator and mag rotor. Since I don't have any aftermarket electrical bits, that's good enough for me now.
What got my system working well was Sonreir's RR plus the stock stator and mag rotor. Since I don't have any aftermarket electrical bits, that's good enough for me now.
mydlyfkryzis
当有疑问时踢你的敌人在生殖器上，你可以道歉后
Ricks Motorsports Hotshot kit is single phase, 150 watt. I had asked them earlier on the specs. Look at the pic, 2 wires.
Nothing wrong with it, but only 20 watts over stock CB360.
Nothing wrong with it, but only 20 watts over stock CB360.
620dark
You can always get it running with time or money.
Hey, have any of you fine 360ers checked out the Charlie's Place ignition?
http://www.charlies-place.com/PAGES/Store/electronic_ignitions_new_2.html
Beerob81 reports good results with his unit:
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=59197
$230 isn't chump change, but I put up ~$200 for the Pamco ignition (that was later refunded). I'd really like to have the 360 be a reliable rider, but that darn right cylinder miss is still making my life difficult.
On the plus side, I did get out on the 900 yesterday and had a beautiful first ride of the season. Why is the CBR900RR murder machine the most reliable bike in my garage!?!?!
http://www.charlies-place.com/PAGES/Store/electronic_ignitions_new_2.html
Beerob81 reports good results with his unit:
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=59197
$230 isn't chump change, but I put up ~$200 for the Pamco ignition (that was later refunded). I'd really like to have the 360 be a reliable rider, but that darn right cylinder miss is still making my life difficult.
On the plus side, I did get out on the 900 yesterday and had a beautiful first ride of the season. Why is the CBR900RR murder machine the most reliable bike in my garage!?!?!
frogman
'74 CB360, '71 CB450, '75 CB550SS
How/When is it missing? Have you checked that side with a strobe will running up and down the RPM range checking the advance? Mine used to have a funky miss mid-range that no amount of adjusting would pin down. Dug the strobe out and hooked it up and played with the bike and noticed that it advanced FINE on the left side and all kinds of jumpy bouncy on the right side.
Did some googling and found some stuff by Hondaman about that same issue, turned out to be too much end play on the advancer cam between the cam and the washer. He recommended something like .002" and on mine I quit measuring at like .010".
Got to reading and found a diagram of the advancer that showed a shim UNDER the cam between it and the plate. Some how somewhere mine had gone missing. I made one out of a copper washer I had around just to test. Put it on, timed it, and strobed it again. Nice SMOOTH advance on the right side.
He also recommended making sure that you had just enough oil in the felt at the bottom. That can cause sticky points if there is too much.
Anyway figured I would pass that along.
Did some googling and found some stuff by Hondaman about that same issue, turned out to be too much end play on the advancer cam between the cam and the washer. He recommended something like .002" and on mine I quit measuring at like .010".
Got to reading and found a diagram of the advancer that showed a shim UNDER the cam between it and the plate. Some how somewhere mine had gone missing. I made one out of a copper washer I had around just to test. Put it on, timed it, and strobed it again. Nice SMOOTH advance on the right side.He also recommended making sure that you had just enough oil in the felt at the bottom. That can cause sticky points if there is too much.
Anyway figured I would pass that along.
620dark
You can always get it running with time or money.
Thanks Frogman, I'll check those items out. I know I have the shim in place and checked endplay when I built the motor, but it's probably a good idea to check it again. Timing for both sides is good, and I replaced the advancer springs.
My issue is that at idle the right pipe is cold most of the time. When I rev the bike, the right pipe lights up, pops a couple of times, and then it's off to the races. I've been able to get it to run on both cylinders semi-regularly by swapping in some ok old OEM coils (one of my two new coils was DOA), but I still have this issue where the bike starts to stall at idle when it warms up. It's a couple of frustrating issues that seem to defy diagnosis, but after having PJ go through the carbs and verifying good compression on both sides, it seems that the ignition is the issue. I'm going to go broke buying new spark plugs for testing ;D
My issue is that at idle the right pipe is cold most of the time. When I rev the bike, the right pipe lights up, pops a couple of times, and then it's off to the races. I've been able to get it to run on both cylinders semi-regularly by swapping in some ok old OEM coils (one of my two new coils was DOA), but I still have this issue where the bike starts to stall at idle when it warms up. It's a couple of frustrating issues that seem to defy diagnosis, but after having PJ go through the carbs and verifying good compression on both sides, it seems that the ignition is the issue. I'm going to go broke buying new spark plugs for testing ;D
mydlyfkryzis
当有疑问时踢你的敌人在生殖器上，你可以道歉后
Pamco has his CB360 ignition issues worked out. He is building, but not quite selling, the e-advance unit.
I would be patient. Worth the wait...
I would be patient. Worth the wait...
620dark
You can always get it running with time or money.
Thanks man, I'll step up to the window when he starts selling the darn things.
I hope he's ready soon though - HE'S DRIVING ME INTO THE ARMS OF AN INTERCEPTOR! The most evil complicated and 80s bike in existence!
At least it has an electronic ignition ;D
I hope he's ready soon though - HE'S DRIVING ME INTO THE ARMS OF AN INTERCEPTOR! The most evil complicated and 80s bike in existence!
At least it has an electronic ignition ;D
620dark
You can always get it running with time or money.
Yea, the '93 CBR is the most reliable bike of the fleet, but probably the most complicated as well. It fired right up this season, however, and while it is trying to murder me, it runs and rides very well while doing so.
Turns out the 17" front wheel and '95 front forks only slightly tamed it, and if I don't shift at 3000 rpms in traffic I'm going to power wheelie into the car in front of me.
Despite my gripes, the Interceptor is going back together pretty well - the carbs are rebuilt, and now I'm just waiting for the engine gasket kit and the new front cylinder head. We'll see how badly stretched the cam chains are though, that scares me because I don't think the master link cam chains are available any more. The chains look ok, but that and $5 will buy me a coffee at Starbucks, right? My hands are covered with cuts from the sharp aluminum bits on the carbs, and carb cleaner stings in open wounds!
Turns out the 17" front wheel and '95 front forks only slightly tamed it, and if I don't shift at 3000 rpms in traffic I'm going to power wheelie into the car in front of me.
Despite my gripes, the Interceptor is going back together pretty well - the carbs are rebuilt, and now I'm just waiting for the engine gasket kit and the new front cylinder head. We'll see how badly stretched the cam chains are though, that scares me because I don't think the master link cam chains are available any more. The chains look ok, but that and $5 will buy me a coffee at Starbucks, right? My hands are covered with cuts from the sharp aluminum bits on the carbs, and carb cleaner stings in open wounds!
620dark
You can always get it running with time or money.
Yes it did, but I have a VF750F, not a VFR, so that means I get the stretchy cam chains, the self destructing tensioners, and, as PJ put it, the "chocolate" camshafts (all four of them) that have poorly hardened lobes.
The "good" news is that the cams look like they've been replaced under warranty (and probably chains and tensioners as well), and the motor is spotless inside. Well, other than the bits of disintegrated cam chain tensioner, orange RTV, and part of a feeler gauge I found in the oil pan. That's why there's a strainer on the pickup, right? Right?
The "good" news is that the cams look like they've been replaced under warranty (and probably chains and tensioners as well), and the motor is spotless inside. Well, other than the bits of disintegrated cam chain tensioner, orange RTV, and part of a feeler gauge I found in the oil pan. That's why there's a strainer on the pickup, right? Right?
