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I know what you mean. But after destroying my first set of valves and guides I'm a little more stoic about it. It may cost money, but metal doesn't bleed.
it looks like the piston angle is steeper than the angle in the head . Not so good . Preferred is the closest point at the outside of cylinder gradually opening up into the combustion chamber . Years ago NACA the predecessor to NASA did extensive work on improving combustion efficiency and resistance to detonation . I'm not sure where i read it but regardless of fuel the "wedge" angle was 7 to 10 degrees . The total area involved was between 10 and 15% of the total piston surface . The vale witness marks on the pistons are self explanatory , no good and have to be addressed .
OK... the head is back with the machinist to get some metal removed and the surface lapped. He'll check to make sure everything is nice and square, too.
As for me, it's time to break out the die grinder and dremel and take another .020" out the exhaust valve pockets.
I got another .010" remove from the valve cutouts on the pistons. It doesn't look pretty, but the machinist dial says my hand was fairly steady (except where I went a bit overboard with the carbide cutter in the valley of the first piston).
My analog scale tells me the pistons are within a gram of one another which I'm thinking will be adequate. If it's not, I'll pull things apart again.
I've managed to procure an aluminum front wheel (thanks, Brad!) which will likely go on the bike over the winter. It's an 18" Akront, 1.85" wide and shouldered. Very light. I'm hoping it's a direct swap for the current front rim. Pics once I get it cleaned up a bit.
Well... the machinist has cleaned up the head surface and verified that the core is square (it is, when compared to the cam journals). Unfortunately, he either doesn't have the tools or the experience to alter the chamber angles to work well with my pistons. We're shopping around for another guy but the economy was hit hard here in Oregon and a lot of these places have closed up shop...
In the mean time, I'm occupying myself with some of the charging system upgrades. I've completed a drawing (not to scale, but the measurements are correct) for fitting my new charging system into the mix. This pic is basically an extension that will sit between the left crank case and the stator cover. It'll allow me to stuff a second stator and rotor into the cases. Each stator will then be separately rectified before being spliced together. The two alternators will then run in parallel before reaching my single regulator.
Still paying attention Matt .
It is possible to unwind two stator cores and combine the laminations to make a thicker core that you can then wind with slightly thicker wire for more current . I've done it . Trouble is I did it twice before I sent it off to Custom rewind and had Gary get it right . Seems that not only do the windings have to all be going the same direction but you have to avoid sharp bends as well as contact with the core . A serious high temperature , flexible , epoxy or polymer insulation is required on the stator and the wire .
The rest is spacing the thicker core so it doesn't hit the rotor . You would be surprised how far the magnetic field extends from the rotor . You can have 30-40% of a thicker stator out past the rotor and still get significant gains . I didn't know it at the time but when I finally gave in and had Gary do the work he let me know that there were several ZN1300's that had gone before me .
Having Gary or Rick's rewind for you is a bit of a no brainer . After applying 268 turns of magnet wire twice only to have it fail . Then again maybe you are less of a wire winding moron than I am . Since I'm Oh for Two it wouldn't be hard
A little off topic here Sonreir but I have to say that I always thought you had the best little sayings at the bottom of each of your posts. That is until today when I read Kopcicle's ;D ;D ;D ;D
So my rearsets arrived in the mail this week. I finally got some time to tear into them and clean them up a bit. They're from an 1988 FZR 400.
I sanded them down (including the casting marks) and gave them a light polish. Before and after shots of the brake lever, here:
As for actually fitting them onto the bike, I haven't figured out how to do that just yet. Anyone have any suggestions? The right side is definitely going to give me problems. No idea how to get my kick start to clear the brake lever just yet. Also... what is the little aluminum guard thing for? It would seem easier to mount in this first pic, but the second pic might have better ergonomics.... your guys' thoughts?
And here's a quick shot of the left side. Shift lever from the rearsets hooked right into the stock shaft, so that's always nice.
I imagine the guard is to stop the heel of your boot rubbing against the tyre? Maybe the FZR400 has wider rubber back there. Or maybe an exhaust pipe that might burn your boot?
Yeah, definitly a difference between a good polish and what a trailer queen would recieve. But then again Aluminum oxidizes sooo quick, you have to really stay on top of show quality polishes on bare aluminum. Otherwise they just look like "good" polishes in a matter of days.
i'd keep the guards like a mini chain guard to stop your shoe laces from getting caught up. Those sets look great man Interested to see you you get em mounted. I was thinking of getting some rocket ones too as the universals well look like universals. and raasks are like 3 bills.
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