1982 CB750F...Better Devil
- Thread starter Jimbonaut
- Start date
Cleaned, rebuilt and installed the rear master cylinder and linkage -
In its previous life the battery dumped its entire contents all over the right-hand side of the bike, laying waste to the master cylinder in particular. I measured the internal bore diameter and it's still well within spec so all being well the new piston, rubber and internals will be up to snuff. The outside of the mc got ravaged but hey, in time don't we all.
In its previous life the battery dumped its entire contents all over the right-hand side of the bike, laying waste to the master cylinder in particular. I measured the internal bore diameter and it's still well within spec so all being well the new piston, rubber and internals will be up to snuff. The outside of the mc got ravaged but hey, in time don't we all.
Working on the tank. I could stick my fingers through the rust holes on the tank that came on the bike - here's what the replacement tank looked like when I bought it (it's a K model) -
Not the worst but a sizeable dent (and small crease) on the top and a bunch of dings all over the rest of it. Rust patches on the outside, no pinholes (I don't think) and pretty clean inside. After working on the dents -
Since then it's been stripped and cleaned on the inside. Yesterday I got busy with the thing. First off was dealing with the rust -
I used Rust Check Rust Converter. It stunk, so you know it's good. Brushed it on, left to dry, washed it off, job done. Then filler. I've only used this stuff a couple of times before but many, many years ago.
The dents on the top of the tank were definitely the toughest. It took about 4 thin layers of bondo until I was ok with the finish, and then I used some glazing putty to skim the scratches and pin holes -
Sprayed some black primer down to use as a guide coat and didn't see any crazy high or low patches, so a final sand and then hit it with a decent coat of etching primer to check my work. Saw these patches -
so sanded back the primer and bondo, laid down some more glaze, sanded with 400 grit and saw a definite improvement -
Not perfect, but getting there -
I'll sand the primer back down again, try laying down some more putty, and see what I can do about any low spots. Think those will go once I lay down the 3 coats of 2K primer next week when it arrives?
Not the worst but a sizeable dent (and small crease) on the top and a bunch of dings all over the rest of it. Rust patches on the outside, no pinholes (I don't think) and pretty clean inside. After working on the dents -
Since then it's been stripped and cleaned on the inside. Yesterday I got busy with the thing. First off was dealing with the rust -
I used Rust Check Rust Converter. It stunk, so you know it's good. Brushed it on, left to dry, washed it off, job done. Then filler. I've only used this stuff a couple of times before but many, many years ago.
The dents on the top of the tank were definitely the toughest. It took about 4 thin layers of bondo until I was ok with the finish, and then I used some glazing putty to skim the scratches and pin holes -
Sprayed some black primer down to use as a guide coat and didn't see any crazy high or low patches, so a final sand and then hit it with a decent coat of etching primer to check my work. Saw these patches -
so sanded back the primer and bondo, laid down some more glaze, sanded with 400 grit and saw a definite improvement -
Not perfect, but getting there -
I'll sand the primer back down again, try laying down some more putty, and see what I can do about any low spots. Think those will go once I lay down the 3 coats of 2K primer next week when it arrives?
I'm enjoying the bodywork process. When I was a kid I worked in an auto repair shop for a summer. I didn't do any body repair however, instead I was the idiot sent out into the Slough winter to wash all the finished cars in freezing rain with holes in my Converse. I "restored" my old 78 VW bus over a summer - the thing was riddled with rust and covered in dents so I learnt how to use Bondo then, albeit badly. But I enjoy the process. It's deliberate and time consuming, but rewarding. Hopefully this tank'll look ok - my historical bar is pretty low so hopefully the only way is up.
Last edited:
3DogNate
"You Meet the Nicest People on a Honda"
I used to dismiss sealer coats if i didn't break through my primer when wet sanding it. But I'm an advocate for it now. It seals the primer up and makes the surface homogeneous and makes the base coat lay so nice and in turn makes your clear lay excellent and it sticks to 2k primer way better than basecoat and base coat sticks to it very nicely. This pair of vids pretty much sums it up. It's not "required" but you'll step up your results.
Car Addict - funny, I was watching a few of that guy's videos this morning. Sounds like he knows his onions. Thanks man, I'll check it out.
Something like this DupliColor? - https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/...h-K3Ue5C2OLXwtXLyF7QhAaAvorEALw_wcB#store=400
Something like this DupliColor? - https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/...h-K3Ue5C2OLXwtXLyF7QhAaAvorEALw_wcB#store=400
3DogNate
"You Meet the Nicest People on a Honda"
Yes, that's what I use when I don't feel like getting the compressor+gun rig out.
Sanded back the primer and had another go at smoothing out the dents with another thin layer or two of mud. Learnt a lesson - lay down a thin "wet" layer of filler first. I didn't do that and it didn't adhere at all. Realized my mistake and got much better results. Skimmed the mud with come thin putty, then laid down some etching primer, then some filler primer - all just to check my work.
It's not perfect - I can still slightly see some slight filler lines underneath the primer - but they're very, very faint. Gave it a wet sand with 600 and it definitely looks better. Once the 2K primer and paint arrives from HoK (hopefully next week) then this bugger will be ready for its close-up.
I’ve listened to nothing but Waylon Jennings for the last 72hrs while working intermittently on this tank. He’s been brilliant. He’s like a good friend on your shoulder telling you no matter, you fuck this up it’s all good. There’s another tank in another town with another dent to do better on.
It's not perfect - I can still slightly see some slight filler lines underneath the primer - but they're very, very faint. Gave it a wet sand with 600 and it definitely looks better. Once the 2K primer and paint arrives from HoK (hopefully next week) then this bugger will be ready for its close-up.
I’ve listened to nothing but Waylon Jennings for the last 72hrs while working intermittently on this tank. He’s been brilliant. He’s like a good friend on your shoulder telling you no matter, you fuck this up it’s all good. There’s another tank in another town with another dent to do better on.
Last edited:
Just got word from UPS that my paint and 2K primer is clearing customs, so hopefully I'll have this tank painted by the end of the week.
Question - should I completely sand back all the primer I have on the tank now (there's both Duplicolor etching and filler primers) before laying down the 2K? Or would the 2K be ok if there's still some Duplicolor primer on the tank?
Question - should I completely sand back all the primer I have on the tank now (there's both Duplicolor etching and filler primers) before laying down the 2K? Or would the 2K be ok if there's still some Duplicolor primer on the tank?
I can't see a reason the 2K primer would have issues, though you can do a test spray on a smaller part. You'll know pretty quick if it's going to mess up. I know the Duplicolor can handle lacquer or enamel on top of it.
What's the best (or at least a good) product to use as a cleaner before primer/paint? Acetone stripped all the glazing putty off so that's out, and alcohol is now unobtanium. I have some TSP which might do the trick? Also, are tack cloths really necessary? Or is there something else I can use?
Maritime
Over 10,000 Posts
not if your're gonna paint it right away. If you sand to bare metal dry it good with heat then paint right away with a coat of primer. Check with HOK on if their 2K reacts with regular filler primer, if not you don't need to sand to bare steel and no worry of rusting.
