Ok so i was tearing down my carbs to dip them i noticed that the fuel/air mixture screw was missing some parts :-[. pulled apart it goes screw, spring ,washer, o ring. i noticed that three out of the four washers were missing from po. down any one know where i can get these washers? ???
1982 gs 750 cafe racer build problem
- Thread starter django89
- Start date
hardline_42
Active Member
It'll be tough finding a part number for the washer. The adjustment screw was set at the factory and then capped off with an aluminum plug, so it's not a replaceable part as far as they were concerned. At least, it's not visible on any parts fiche that I've found. My suggestion is to go to your nearest Radio Shack and spend two-and-a-half bucks on their Assorted Flat Washers 100-pack (#64-3022). There's likely to be a size in their that fits the screw and there's also the size washers you need to shim the needles in your carbs so you can cure the factory lean condition that's so typical of those bikes.
Additionally, if you haven't done so already, order a set of o-rings for your carbs from here:
http://www.cycleorings.com/#BS_Series_O-ring_Kit
...and follow the procedure outlined here:
http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/Mikuni_BS-CV_Carburetor_Rebuild_Tutorial.pdf
Additionally, if you haven't done so already, order a set of o-rings for your carbs from here:
http://www.cycleorings.com/#BS_Series_O-ring_Kit
...and follow the procedure outlined here:
http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/Mikuni_BS-CV_Carburetor_Rebuild_Tutorial.pdf
Hoosier Daddy
Earache my eye...
Try a hobby shop that caters to R/C and model trains. Take the one you have and match it up #4 or maybe a #2 should be close. All it does is act as a spring seat to keep the spring from digging into the o-ring.
...and +1 to the links hardline_42 provided. I used them both
...and +1 to the links hardline_42 provided. I used them both
ok i got the washers from radio shack thanks alot but now i cant get the bike to start fml tore them down cleaned them now the dame thing wont start followed a rebuild manual now i cant fig out wat i did wrong. it ran before i put new jets in it. went from 112.5 to 120. any ideas
Did you check that that the seal and washer you thought were missing were not stuck in the carb body. They are easy to miss as the washer makes it look like part of the carb. However you should at least get it to fire but may not run corectly, even with the increase in main jets.
The carbs need to be spotlessly clean and all holes orifices etc have to clear of any debri however small. compreesed air and or carb cleaning brushes are needed to clean them properly.
The carbs need to be spotlessly clean and all holes orifices etc have to clear of any debri however small. compreesed air and or carb cleaning brushes are needed to clean them properly.
hardline_42
Active Member
There's a limited number of things that could keep your bike from running and it should be relatively easy to chase down if it ran before. A few questions:django89 said:
- Did you tear down the carbs completely before dipping (or just "spray them out")?
- Did you replace all the o-rings, including the ones between the intake boots and the head?
- Did you set the float height?
- Did you bench synch the carbs?
- Have you checked valve clearances?
- Did you reconnect the vac line to the petcock?
- Is your petcock/filter clean and fuel lines straight and clear?
- Did you prime the bowls and can you verify they're getting fuel?
- Are you using a fully charged battery?
If you start by answering those we can get closer to diagnosing the problem. Also, I agree with notlob, that the increase in main jet size won't affect startup and idle, but why did you go up three jet sizes in the first place? Did you make some kind of major mod, like removing the airbox?
yes im going to run pod filters instead of the air box. i did tear down the carbs apart completely and was going to dip them but couldnt get the float bowl pin out and was afraid of bring the post so i just ended up using carb cleaner and sprayed all the holes and passages out that the rebuild procedure told me to do so after the dip and is getting gas but did not check valve clearance yet. battery im using my battery charger i have on engine crank used it before when it did run i dont know if this has to do any thing to do with it i took the turn signals off brake light and all of the battery stuff out of the middle grounded out the rectifier and couple of other ground that were hanging just to see if the carbs are right but the started button does not work now do no if its because of the turn signals had to bridge the stater celinoide but do have spark. it wil go crank crank crank run run crank crank with full choke with some stater fluid also have a random question got a offer for 1989 sportster rims for some parts from this bike 19x3 front 16x3.5 rear with those fit this bike
hardline_42
Active Member
Put the airbox back on and the stock jets. Get it running right, first.
So, you didn't replace all the o-rings, set the float height or bench sync the carbs? Spraying out the carbs won't dissolve any gunk that's partially blocking passages, even if carb spray gets through. You can try some penetrating oil and heat to loosen up the float pins.
This is important. Tight valves won't seal the combustion chamber and you won't have enough compression to get it started. They might not be in bad shape, but unless you bring it back to whatever setup it had when it was running, you won't know for sure.
hardline_42
Active Member
django89 said:
Did you plug the vacuum port on the carb?
