1983 Suzuki GS750E Cafe/Brat/Tracker? or whatever
- Thread starter dilbone
- Start date
Not sure you can even buy the clutch basket anymore - and even if you could you'd want to be sitting down when they tell you the price.... 
They are not hard to fix as long as you can weld up the rivets again. I had my 750ef one done back in the day by a local shop and I did one myself recently on an FJ1200.
They are not hard to fix as long as you can weld up the rivets again. I had my 750ef one done back in the day by a local shop and I did one myself recently on an FJ1200.
Oh boy, I wasn't thinking the actual basket as much as the plates and springs. Ok, I'll have to do some searching on this and see what I can find. Thanks again. Do you think I should fix this before attempting to take it down the road or is this a "sometime soon" type of thing?hillsy said:Not sure you can even buy the clutch basket anymore - and even if you could you'd want to be sitting down when they tell you the price....
They are not hard to fix as long as you can weld up the rivets again. I had my 750ef one done back in the day by a local shop and I did one myself recently on an FJ1200.
You can wait a while to fix it. I ran my 750 for ages with the rattle basket - just put your idle up until it stops.
Having said that I've just watched your video and it sounds like the carbs are way out of sync - which will make a clutch basket rattle sound a lot worse.
Having said that I've just watched your video and it sounds like the carbs are way out of sync - which will make a clutch basket rattle sound a lot worse.
Tune-A-Fish
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you can file the basket one time with little worry
Tune-A-Fish
BOTM LOSER Proudly Deplorable
Oh well I was unaware you opened it up and checked the spring rate
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Tune-A-Fish
BOTM LOSER Proudly Deplorable
Tune-A-Fish said:
Top one.
Anyway, it's the damper springs at the back of the clutch basket that compress over time and makes the basket rattle.
Easiest way to confirm this is to undo the oil filler cap when it's idling - if the clutch is rattling you'll hear it real good
hillsy said:Top one.
Anyway, it's the damper springs at the back of the clutch basket that compress over time and makes the basket rattle.
Easiest way to confirm this is to undo the oil filler cap when it's idling - if the clutch is rattling you'll hear it real good
So.....from what I'm reading, the damper springs are part of the basket internals itself and can't be changed? Is there anything that can actually be done then? Shimming the springs? Having it rebuilt?
Looks like I'll just be keeping the idle up for now....lol
I started it up again the other day to see if I could check on the charging system. In the mean time it doesn't seem like the choke circuit is working at all. I must be all sorts of plugged in there...gonna have to address that.
So the voltage at the battery checked at 12.36v before starting. Once running it only went up to about 12.9v. Later that day I fired it up and checked again and it was up to 13.5v. I need to do some tests on all the components, but having any voltage above battery voltage would suggest the regulator possibly over the stator... I think anyway.
I started it up again the other day to see if I could check on the charging system. In the mean time it doesn't seem like the choke circuit is working at all. I must be all sorts of plugged in there...gonna have to address that.
So the voltage at the battery checked at 12.36v before starting. Once running it only went up to about 12.9v. Later that day I fired it up and checked again and it was up to 13.5v. I need to do some tests on all the components, but having any voltage above battery voltage would suggest the regulator possibly over the stator... I think anyway.
It's a little shy of that at this point, but I still haven't had time to do any checking of charging system components.hillsy said:
I did put the chain on and was going to get the clutch cable installed but decided to wait on that. It still won't start with the choke circuit at all and I think I know why.
The carbs are tipped downward toward the front while up on the center stand and at least a couple of them have been flooding the cylinders with fuel after I pour gas in the line via the funnel. Gonna have to take them off and go through them again.
hillsy said:
yeah, either that or leaky pilot plugs. I cleaned the dern needle seats so well that I'm surprised I'm having a problem...A lot of Q-tip attention was given there because I didn't want leaky needle valves. Oh well, It may not have been enough attention. I don't think its the pilot plugs as they all seemed plenty pliable and soft, so I should just need to go back through every passage and every orifice with a fine tooth comb.
Carbs overflow because the float valves are either full of crap, worn out or the floats don't float / are stuck open. Nothing to do with jet sizes or jet caps.
Have you blown out the passages with carb cleaner and compressed air? I don't know why / how you are using q-tips but if you aren't using compressed air then you may as well just throw some Seafoam in the fuel and run it until the carbs (hopefully) clear themselves.
Have you blown out the passages with carb cleaner and compressed air? I don't know why / how you are using q-tips but if you aren't using compressed air then you may as well just throw some Seafoam in the fuel and run it until the carbs (hopefully) clear themselves.
