Me (KLR) and mate (DR) went for a midnite ride around the city last night - dual sports on quiet city night streets is f-u-n. You're gonna have an absolute riot on this thing mate, hope you're in the saddle soon!
Aint that the truth. I took apart a BMW mid 80's K100 throttle assembly at work the other day, and there was some kind of chain and gear assembly in there connected to the throttle cable. Great when it works, bit of a nightmare when it went south.Maritime said:but one thing I know about German shit, it's usually over complicated when it doesn't need to be.
I have a 2-into-1 intake for these. Just need a carb to fit the wishbone in the frame. The intake is off of a DS650 Bombardier. This Rotax motor is incredibly reliable, very well engineered, and not complex at all.Maritime said:SO this is a big single with 2 carbs and 2-1 intake? Can you swap it out to a single carb intake? That would have to be easier to tune etc? Or maybe not. but one thing I know about German shit, it's usually over complicated when it doesn't need to be.
You mean the lever/arm on the LH side cover (where the cable end attaches to?). It may need to be turned another notch.irk miller said:I have a 2-into-1 intake for these. Just need a carb to fit the wishbone in the frame. The intake is off of a DS650 Bombardier. This Rotax motor is incredibly reliable, very well engineered, and not complex at all.
If you popped the clutch when you pulled the lever, make sure you have the adjustment right. That's what it does when the lever is in the wrong starting position.
Yes, I realized that the first two times I put that back together. The clutch seemed to engage/disengage as normal before I attempted it while the bike was running. Now there seems to be some slop between the actuator and the actuator shaft (which doesn't seem right at all). I'll post a video later. I really don't want to drain the coolant and pull the entire cover off again.irk miller said:As you know, since you had to replace it, the clutch actuator is a worm gear. The actuator shaft (the part that the cable turns) needs to be in the engaged position when the arm and cable is put on so that when you pull the lever it actuates. Before you put the arm and cable on, you can spin the worm gear completely in both directions all the way to the end of the gear, so it's easy to get confused where it needs to be to hook up the cable.