1st timer - Yamaha Radian Cafe/Dual Sport Build

J-Rod10 said:
Yes, yes it will. Changing the rake and trail is always going to have an effect on handling.
Indeed, yes, it absolutely will. That said, it depends on how you ride and how attuned you are to how your bike performs as to how critical (within reason) the handling characteristics are. I knew a guy that was an absolute motorcycle nut - rode all the time. I rode his bike once and couldn't believe anyone would ride such a thing, but he was a happy camper. That said, you may envision just tooling around town, but I'd bet you get out of town more often than you think, and you only need to want to get up a good head of steam once to realize your bike can be scary at speed (talking over 80mph here for a generality.) Modern bikes get away with very steep geometry by having incredibly stiff chassis (not talking suspension here) and very light steering assemblies. Those elements greatly increase the harmonic at which they naturally oscillate so they gain very crisp handling and are able to deal with the wobble with a damper.

I think it is worth a shot lowering the triple trees - a lot of standard and cruiser style bikes can tolerate doing so since the styling department wanted a taller and longer fork "look" to begin with. However, keep in mind that the engineering department afforded the "look" by fooling around with other parts of the geometry - namely wheel diameter, fork offset and axle offset - to keep the drivability within reasonable range. Since your aim is to change the appearance and not the handling (basing this on not seeing anywhere in your posts about wishing to do so) maybe it would make sense to visually lower the machine by fooling with the instruments, bars, controls, fuel tank etc. For what it's worth, when I build a bike for someone, I find out how they ride and what they like and determine the chassis first. There are all sorts of tweaks to fine tune it, but it is hard (expensive) to change the basic chassis without having to re-make all sorts of ancillary bits. Once I have a basic rolling chassis, I fit the bike to its new owner. Seat height and location, bars and pegs. This can take many hours of mock up and several sessions to get sorted. Then its just all the mechanical stuff, and finally the looks. Getting the aesthetics just the way you want them is a monster task if you are critical, so it pays heavily to do it last unless you like doing it over. It doesn't make any sense to get it looking like you want, only to have to do something over because the functionality got lost or corrupted in the process.
 
Just raised the triple trees and inch and a half then ride it around the neighborhood. Felt a little different but not to the point I didn't like the handling anymore. Feels fine in the regard. I think it's perfect right where it is. Couldn't be happier with a free/15 minute project...

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Also mocked up the rear taillight/brake light. Picked up a red oval led light that you would normally be used on the back of a trailer. It's the exact same width as the opening between the frame rails. Should look nice at the end of the seat. Will build a bracket/from cross member tomorrow and attach the lightand wire it up. Very bright!

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Subtle difference but I can definitely feel it sitting on the bike. 1.5" drop in the front.

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Might be worth trying some heavy breaking in controlled conditions, just to make sure nothing bottoms out.

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Update:

Today I...
-Applied weathered looking star decal to tank sides.
-Welded in rear frame cross member/seat support.
-Cut/bent/welded in sub seat filler panel/seat support. (to hide electronics and help hold up seat. New steel still needs paint.

Going to upholster seat this evening; using an old carhart jacket. (it's currently still just foam over wood).

Up next: clip ons, knobby tires, paint lower forks and rear swing arm, heat wrap exhaust.

...getting closer...

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Got a wild hair and decided to see what the rear coil overs would look like black. Digging it...

Clip ons, grips, turn signals and license plate lights ordered.

Still trying to figure out what to do about all the wires and crap btwn the gauges and the headlight. It's quite an eyesore. Humongous gauges are too and I'm sure will look weird once the bars/controls are lower. Any ideas would be much appreciated!

Also think I found the tires I want. Bridgestone Tw's.

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Tires and filter pods ordered.

Pretty soon I'm going to have a lot of shit showing up at my front to go install.

I need recommendations on rejetting the carbs bc I know I'll need to. Anyone have any good pointers? Thanks!



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You will have a hard time playing with carbs + pods. I have seen several FJ/XJ 600 builds with pods and they ran like crap. I went with stock airbox on my build and would advise you the same.

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GoCrazy said:
You will have a hard time playing with carbs + pods. I have seen several FJ/XJ 600 builds with pods and they ran like crap. I went with stock airbox on my build and would advise you the same.

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That's the advice I keep hearing, but being stubborn I want to give it a shot at least.

The stock airbox is massive and ugly, plus if I get rid of it I can more easily relocate the battery.

What jets did you unsuccessfully try with pods?

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I didn't re-jet mine, but two bikes i've seen had the same jet setting and they didn't run the same way. Maybe it was the general condition of carbs/engine that was responsible. You could try making a custom airbox or velocity stacks? I've talked to a guy once who had custom made stacks with CV carburator and his bike ran quite well, but as far as I remember making the stacks required some havy math skills. Stacks for cylinder #2 and #3 were longer than #1 and #4 and pointed outside in order to compensate for the cold-hot air density. Air that reaches #2 and #3 carb is slightly hotter and has a different density. The stock airbox allows for air to mix and even out the temp.

Check out this bike :
http://www.pipeburn.com/home/2016/03/08/cafe-terror-xj600-by-custom-operational-group.html

It has a custom made "airbox", though it looks like a one big pod fiter in a box.

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GoCrazy said:
I didn't re-jet mine, but two bikes i've seen had the same jet setting and they didn't run the same way. Maybe it was the general condition of carbs/engine that was responsible. You could try making a custom airbox or velocity stacks? I've talked to a guy once who had custom made stacks with CV carburator and his bike ran quite well, but as far as I remember making the stacks required some havy math skills. Stacks for cylinder #2 and #3 were longer than #1 and #4 and pointed outside in order to compensate for the cold-hot air density. Air that reaches #2 and #3 carb is slightly hotter and has a different density. The stock airbox allows for air to mix and even out the temp.

Check out this bike :
http://www.pipeburn.com/home/2016/03/08/cafe-terror-xj600-by-custom-operational-group.html

It has a custom made "airbox", though it looks like a one big pod fiter in a box.

Wysłane z tostera
Thanks!

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