2001 Yamaha SR250 - Cafe Racer (Sydney)

Re: 2001 Yamaha SR250 - Deus inspired Cafe Racer

Hey Guys,

I may have broken some parts of the engine while attempting to disassemble the engine to paint and detail. Specifically, in 'disturbing' the top end of the engine.

Correct me if mistaken guys, but the list of possibly damaged parts include:
1. Top End Gasket
2. Clutch Cover

To fix it I will need:
1. To replace all the Gaskets when I reassemble the motor (complete Top End Gasket set, which includes an extra clutch cover)
2. New Piston Rings

Potential engine upgrade at the same time:

1. hotter cams
2. high compression piston
3. tuned/jetted


From what I have gathered, the SR250 shares parts with XT250, TT250 and XS250.

Feel free to elaborate and explain how sh*t works because after all, this is my first bike. I genuinely have no understanding about bikes, especially the technical jargon is or does. However, I am trying to learn quickly.




Some pictures from my phone (Apologies for the quality):
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As you can see from the light relflection, there's some orange peel on some parts that needs to be sanded back and recoated.

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Here's a few extra pictures of the top clamp from the triple tree. How do I remove the ignition? What's those two things holding it in place? Is it a rivot like object I can just drill into to remove?

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The rim has been clear coated, which is quite glossy, but only slightly more than the hub.

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How do I remove this brake plate from the wheel? I thought I could paint around it, but it is proving to be a PITA to paint around. Especially because I need to position the spokes at different angles and tape them down so the paint covers the right areas properly. But even still, at the end of the day it won't be an even finish and I will need to sand it back. Therefore, I will I will need a final coat or clear coat which will need to have all the spokes out of the way to make the surface perfect.


Kick Starter:
Some pictures... Inside, outside, close ups...

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I can't seem to pop that 'rubber bung' out... I don't want to use too much force... How do I open it up?

KICK_STARTER.Gif

I think I still need to buy parts:
- 11-14
- 17-19
- 16
- 15

Oh, I forgot to mention I already have a kick start lever that fits.

Cheers,
Damo
 
Re: 2001 Yamaha SR250 - Deus inspired Cafe Racer

On my 1980 SR250 which I added a kick start to last winter the black plug covering the hole for the kick start assembly turned out to be metal instead of plastic or rubber like it seemed.
I wound up having to take a hammer and screw driver and pounding it out. It wasn't going back in for sure since it was rather dented in the middle from the force needed to pop it out.

It's amazing how little changed from the 1980-82 SR250s to the early 2000 European released models. Personally I love the styling on the 2000+ models over the early 80s ones like I have. Mine is much more cruiser styled which is why I mainly just restored it close to stock and picked up the KZ400 for a cafe build. If I don't sell it maybe I'll tear it apart after the KZ400 is done and turn it into a bobber. ;)
 
Re: 2001 Yamaha SR250 - Deus inspired Cafe Racer

hillsy said:
It's probably a push-on cap with a circlip. You'll need to push down on the cap and prise out the circlip to allow the cap to release. Be careful - the fork springs will be pre-loaded and the cap will want to shoot out after you get the clip out.

And yeah - sharp looking tank :eek:

Yep that's exactly what it is. The cap is held in place by a c-clip. The easiest way to get it out is on the bike using the trees and using a c-clamp. I've done this a few times. I've got 2 sr250s.

since you've got the tubes off I would put the forks into a vice with soft jaws, with aluminum or wood so not to damage, the take a large c-clamp place the fixed side under the vice and the threaded side on top of the cap of the fork tube. Tighten the c-clamp and it will push the cap down. With a small screwdriver, pick the c-clamp out. I've used to small flat head screwdrivers, one to get behind the spring to push it out of the recess and the other to pick it out.

Now seeing that you are repainting the top of the tree again I would put that on the forks and use the c-clamp method. easier to get a c-clamp on and less chance of distorting the top of the tube. Just be careful though when you loosen the c-clamp. sometimes the cap doesn't come out because the top tree holding the fork is also holding the cap in place. When you loosen the top tree it will often fly right out of there because of the tension of the fork spring. Ask me how I know ;). Finding a cap in a gravel driveway is not my idea of a fun saturday. lol

If you need some pics I could do a demo as one of the bikes is getting new seals anyways. I could do a how to if you like.

Jay
 
Re: 2001 Yamaha SR250 - Deus inspired Cafe Racer

When I tried to change the fork seals and oil in my 1980 SR250 the forks were corroded on the inside it seems since once I got the cap compressed and the spring clip out I never could get the cap out. I wound up picking up a different pair of forks on Ebay for pretty cheap. I would like to change the seals on them as well but am concerned about the same problems.
 
Re: 2001 Yamaha SR250 - Deus inspired Cafe Racer

yea, had that same problem with a xs400. I grabbed the fork tubes and compressed them quickly a few times, it uses the spring to help push it out.You could also heat the forks up at the top before you push down.
found that if I left the oil in when I pushed it helped. You will get covered in oil if/when they pop.

Jay
 
Re: 2001 Yamaha SR250 - Deus inspired Cafe Racer

jay_kent said:
yea, had that same problem with a xs400. I grabbed the fork tubes and compressed them quickly a few times, it uses the spring to help push it out.You could also heat the forks up at the top before you push down.
found that if I left the oil in when I pushed it helped. You will get covered in oil if/when they pop.

Jay

Thanks for the tips guys. Gee, it sounds like a lot of trouble. Would the mechanic be doing the same thing? Or would they have a less dangerous method? I really don't want to lose an eye...
 
Re: 2001 Yamaha SR250 - Deus inspired Cafe Racer

Wired the electrics back together
After 2 or 3 hours and many references to the wiring diagram and my own labelling (permanent marker written on tabs), I managed to connect most of it back together.

Here's what works right now:
- Indicators
- Brake light
- High beam
- Horn works
What else should I check?

The thing with this bike is that you can't run the headlight and gauge lights until the engine is on... How do I know? I rode the bike until I ran out of petrol once, it resulted in me rolling the bike home (2kms) in 1am darkness... Hopefully after the engine is mounted and back together the headlight and gauges will light up.

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The Plan for Electrics:
- Ignition switched to 'On' allows EVERYTHING to light up.
- When engine kill switch is hit, EVERYTHING stays lit up.
- 2 Start Switches (handle bar and frame)
- Ignition on the frame
- Hazard light switch (All indicators on together)
- Air horn?

More Parts Painted:
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Started Some Assembly:
Old Rear Wheel + Some colour to guide assembly.
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New Rear Wheel
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What's the proper way to respoke wheels? Or should I say, 'reassemble' the spokes to the wheel? I find that the rim is probably oval shaped because the spokes aren't positioned as tight as they used to be i.e. some spokes may be 0.5mm tighter than others. Hence, when I did an experiment of rolling the assembled wheel 5m on a flat surface, it drifted off by 5cm to the right..

But perhaps when the tyres are on there won't be much difference, since the wheel will be spinning at 60 km/h! Seriously, would I notice the difference?


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Cheers guys,
Hope you had a merry Christmas.

Damo
 
Re: 2001 Yamaha SR250 - Deus inspired Cafe Racer

That bike is coming really well.

As for losing an eye while pushing on the forks, don't worry, you won't be looking down the barrel. Just move off to the side to really put your back into it.

Looking forward to seeing some more.

Jay
 
Re: 2001 Yamaha SR250 - Deus inspired Cafe Racer

this looks great man! sorry did not see your questions on lacing wheels earlier, sorry
 
Re: 2001 Yamaha SR250 - Deus inspired Cafe Racer

JRK5892 said:
this looks great man! sorry did not see your questions on lacing wheels earlier, sorry

All good buddy! I took my wheel down to the mechanic to finally get my rear tyre fitted. He threw it onto a machine that spun the wheel to check for misalignment and now it's perfect!
 
Re: 2001 Yamaha SR250 - Deus inspired Cafe Racer

Hey Everyone,

Fibreglassing - Splinters all over my arms and legs which follow me into my bed! As you might know, they're impossible to find and pick out. But as skin naturally expells foreign objects, the splinters fall off in my bed over night. But then the next night I forget there's fibreglass splinters in my bed because I wake up feeling unprickled and clean, but alas I fall asleep in the bed of thorns again. omg I can't wait for mum or my girlfriend to wash my sheets. LOL.


ANYWAY...Here's another update

I made a seat pan and battery box out of fibreglass, that are about half done. The battery box is quite nifty, it's got a hinged lid and a lock. I need to figure out some way to mount it to the bike.

Thoughts: Weld some mounts and use Zip Ties vs Fibreglass Mounts vs Steel Mounts

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Quite proud of the box so far (yay). It too a lot of time measuring, marking, fiddling, sanding, cutting etc. Next time, definately making it out of sheel metal.

Some sides are still a bit thin, which I'll need to thicken up the glass.

Thinking about a Rear Fender: Fibreglass on up (which I hear from friends who build 'low rider' bicycles is a PITA to curve up vs A Harley Custom Fender on ebay or something.

Pictures:
A battery powered motorbike! Cool!
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The battery looks big enough... Thinking of a way to mount the battery box and fit all the wiring bits and pieces properly. Challenging, I know. Any suggestions?

I hope to limit the use of any kind of electrical tray. That way, I can make use of the frame and keep the mounts provided. Oh, the battery box has about a fistfull of room, that I hope to fit a cigarette lighter inside for a GPS/iPhone connection. How would I add that to the wiring diagram?


Wiring Diagram (For anyone curious)
Anyone know where to find a clearer, less pixelated diagram by any chance?
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A Diagram I drew up to visualise where what goes:

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(n.b. There are two electrical devices which are in the wrong places)

Any help on the electrics is much much appreciated!

P.S. Larger pictures for reference:
http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/5047/editedwiringdiagramsr25.jpg
http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/5047/editedwiringdiagramsr25.jpg

Wiring
What's the best way to learn how re-wire a bike?

Here's the Plan for Wiring
- Ignition Key switched to 'On' - Allows EVERYTHING to light up, including headlight, indicators, brake light, speedo back light and other safety necessities. Hence, when the kill switch is hit, EVERYTHING stays lit up.

- Add an Ignition Key switch to the frame
- Add a Hazard Light switch (All indicators on together)
- Add a Cigarette Lighter/Auxiliary Power - This should fit inside the battery box to power a GPS/iPhone which is I'm constantly needing to recharge.

That's all I can remember for now.

Cheers,
Damo
 
Re: 2001 Yamaha SR250 - Deus inspired Cafe Racer

ATTENTION ALL WIRING GURUS

What type of Soldering Equipment do I need to rewire this bike?

Soldering Iron - How many Volts / Watts
Soldering Iron Tips - Flat / Pointy/Bent
Soldering Wire - 1mm / 2mm / Thicker

What is a durable method to solder to prevent erosion? flux?

Thanks in advance for any help.
 
Re: 2001 Yamaha SR250 - Deus inspired Cafe Racer

Connectors only need to be crimped, joining wires needs soldering.

Most of the wiring on a bike is fairly small gauge, so a cheap AC soldering iron from Tandy or Dick Smith will do the job. You want a pointed tip, and you are best off with flux cored solder (instead of using an external flux). 2MM solder is OK, although size is not really important ::) Also, one of those $15 "helping hands" wire holders are invaluable when it comes to soldering leads together ;)

The secret to soldering wires is to "tin" the ends first. IE cut off about 10MM of sheathing and cover the bare wire in solder. Do the same on the other wire and then join the two solder covered ends together with an extra dab of solder. You need to put the iron onto the bare wire and heat it up enough so the solder melts when it touches the wire, not the iron. Then the solder will "flow" into the strands. If you're soldering a thick(ish) wire, you might need to push the solder in between the iron and the wire to get the solder to melt and flow effectively. Takes a bit of practice, but once you get the feel for it, it becomes second nature ;)

Oh - and make sure you keep you iron clean (you should get a small sponge with your iron - wet it and rub the iron tip over it to clean off the burnt flux. Do it regularly)
 
Re: 2001 Yamaha SR250 - Deus inspired Cafe Racer

Thanks for all the wiring/electrical help. I will definately remember all of that!

Very interesting input regarding wiring...

Hey Everyone,

I don't want the yellowed urethane acrylic clear coat I've got. I also don't want to fill up petrol at the petty station with a funnel. 2pac doesn't get eroded from petrol. So, I popped into the painters today to find out how much it'll cost to clear coat the tank with 2pac.

They told me the clear is designed to go on paint. I have bare metal. It used to be polished but now is a little porous. I told them my situation and I might just sand it instead to get a 'brushed metal' effect. Another reason being that nothing should stick to a polished surface. Not unless it's ruffed up. Then again, I may have the same issue with clear not sticking to the brushed metal surface. It may chip off in the direction of the brush strokes. They recommended 1 coat of clear so that it isn't too thick and there's less likelihood of cracking...

Is this even correct? Or are they just trying to make a quick buck from me?


Got back from the night out and I suppose Bourbon and coke inspired me to do more on the bike.

- Upholstered, kind of...
- Mounted engine, kind of...
- Realised the Air Filter faults with the battery box...
- Back to sanding up the battery box so it fits the air filter.

PICTURES
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Cheers,
Damo
 
Will be following this thread... and hating my stock SR 250 :D Looking very good indeed.
 
Looks good bud, the visual wiring diagram is a great idea. Handslap

Keep it up, as far as you battery tray, I would glass in some straps so that it can be mounted to the frame.

Jay
 
"Cool photo with the shish smoke. Apple scented helmet?" It was actually mint :D

That bike is looking good. How the hell do you get 140 out of that thing? I think it's time to check the piston on mine...
 
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