This is a step by step on how I've set my timing using a test light;
Points :
set at .014 (I took the cam seal bolt off to use the indicator mark for the points gap for fail safe) Is there a correct way to do this? Set points gap on compression stroke? Or is it all the same? I've noticed their are times when both points are open even after finishing the timing? So..WTF? But even without taking the cam seal bolt off (10mil) it's clear to see which is the widest opening.
I continue for your entertainment!
Timing for left cylinder:
While making sure I'm on compression stroke I've set the LF mark with the plate (intake valve closing and feeling the crank want to roll over the LF mark) It's literally dead on. I've double checked it once i've tightened it because I know that the smallest movement will throw things off. So with the points set and the plate moved to the right spot to hit the LF mark on the dot the left cylinder is looking good.
Timing for right cylinder:
Coming off the LF mark moving straight to the F mark I've adjusted the points gap accordingly to see that test light shine once I hit the indicator mark off the stator.
So simple right?
Then BOOM straight to the F mark for the right cylinder I've adjusted the gap so its dead on the indicator mark from the stator.
And same procedure as far as double checking once i've tightened everything to double check it's still dead on.
Now when I go to kick it over i'm feeling compression as I should BUT it fires and pops super loud as if my timing is 180 off.
It won't even idle or anything like that. I've checked my coils from the diagram i've provided and I've also checked by grounding the spark plugs to the engine just to make sure they're working properly. (just trying process of elimination)
Fuel is there
Spark is there
Timing?
What am I missing? I feel like the good ol' owners manual leaves a bit of detail out considering this problem and timing. I'm so lost with this - please tell me I'm missing something before I give up and waste my money by having someone else fix it.
Points :
set at .014 (I took the cam seal bolt off to use the indicator mark for the points gap for fail safe) Is there a correct way to do this? Set points gap on compression stroke? Or is it all the same? I've noticed their are times when both points are open even after finishing the timing? So..WTF? But even without taking the cam seal bolt off (10mil) it's clear to see which is the widest opening.
I continue for your entertainment!
Timing for left cylinder:
While making sure I'm on compression stroke I've set the LF mark with the plate (intake valve closing and feeling the crank want to roll over the LF mark) It's literally dead on. I've double checked it once i've tightened it because I know that the smallest movement will throw things off. So with the points set and the plate moved to the right spot to hit the LF mark on the dot the left cylinder is looking good.
Timing for right cylinder:
Coming off the LF mark moving straight to the F mark I've adjusted the points gap accordingly to see that test light shine once I hit the indicator mark off the stator.
So simple right?
Then BOOM straight to the F mark for the right cylinder I've adjusted the gap so its dead on the indicator mark from the stator.
And same procedure as far as double checking once i've tightened everything to double check it's still dead on.
Now when I go to kick it over i'm feeling compression as I should BUT it fires and pops super loud as if my timing is 180 off.
It won't even idle or anything like that. I've checked my coils from the diagram i've provided and I've also checked by grounding the spark plugs to the engine just to make sure they're working properly. (just trying process of elimination)
Fuel is there
Spark is there
Timing?
What am I missing? I feel like the good ol' owners manual leaves a bit of detail out considering this problem and timing. I'm so lost with this - please tell me I'm missing something before I give up and waste my money by having someone else fix it.