450 CAM TIMING LOSING MY PATIENCE/MIND!!!!!!
- Thread starter MB
- Start date
the 450 is the biggest PITA to get the cam timing right on. Figuring out which markings to use is the hardest part. The front (exhaust) cam has a dot that indicates the correct direction, the intake cam is a line of sorts, and if i recall correctly it doubles as a casting mark.
This might help, set the lobes pointing in the following directions:
Left Exhaust - 3:00 (valve closed)
Right Exhaust - 5:30 (and almost completely open valve)
Left Intake -8:30 (valve closed)
Right Intake - 12:00 (valve getting tighter, but still closed)
Took me 3x to get it right. You'll get it. Just don't rush things and be very gentile when testing it to make sure it works. I ended up removing the side covers and top sprocket follower (leaving the cams loose) while the chain was closed and adjusted from there, its tricky but it works--and nobody recommends it, but what do "they" know. It worked for me, and it saved me time, so fuck 'em. PM me if you need more help.
Cheers,
H
This might help, set the lobes pointing in the following directions:
Left Exhaust - 3:00 (valve closed)
Right Exhaust - 5:30 (and almost completely open valve)
Left Intake -8:30 (valve closed)
Right Intake - 12:00 (valve getting tighter, but still closed)
Took me 3x to get it right. You'll get it. Just don't rush things and be very gentile when testing it to make sure it works. I ended up removing the side covers and top sprocket follower (leaving the cams loose) while the chain was closed and adjusted from there, its tricky but it works--and nobody recommends it, but what do "they" know. It worked for me, and it saved me time, so fuck 'em. PM me if you need more help.
Cheers,
H
This is where it's at
Exhaust; the marker lines up to the very top of the indicator arrow
Intake; the marker lines up proportionately to the bottom of the indicator arrow.
These pictures don't do it justice; most certainly using the correct mark. Straight discernible "chiseled" line.
If I go a tooth back, or forward from here the marks are way out.
My question is; is it possible I have can wear sufficient enough to be in spec but considerable enough that it would effect these alignments?
I know I can't play "near enough is good enough" with my cam timing but if the above scenario is correct, is this the best ill get?
Exhaust; the marker lines up to the very top of the indicator arrow
Intake; the marker lines up proportionately to the bottom of the indicator arrow.
These pictures don't do it justice; most certainly using the correct mark. Straight discernible "chiseled" line.
If I go a tooth back, or forward from here the marks are way out.
My question is; is it possible I have can wear sufficient enough to be in spec but considerable enough that it would effect these alignments?
I know I can't play "near enough is good enough" with my cam timing but if the above scenario is correct, is this the best ill get?
frogman
'74 CB360, '71 CB450, '75 CB550SS
DUDE that is FINE. Peg the masterlink and roll the thing over a a few times and then check it. Then put the tensioner in and let it POP against the chain, then roll it over a few more times and check it. Its the rubber under the chain on the cams that makes it a PITA.
all i know is there were several marks that looked to be correct, but in all actuality, they were not. if it moves freely through rotation (test it slowly from the stator going only counter-clockwise) then its fine. It can slip if you go clockwise if everything isn't tightened down and secured, or at least that was my experience. I have no idea what frogman means about rubber under the chain, there is no rubber on the chain or the cams.
did you try the o'clock positions i suggested earlier?
frogman
'74 CB360, '71 CB450, '75 CB550SS
There are 2 rubber damper rings on EACH cam sitting in a groove right next to sprocket that are there to remove some of the NOISE from the system. They get old and HARD and can be a bitch to compress when you put things back together. If you didn't replace them, they may end up as shreaded rubber pieces in the bottom of the sump. Don't have to replace them, you will just have more valve train noise.
Part # 3
Other than that, marks look good, better than most I have seen and that was about where my 450 engine ended up. Chains will stretch after a while so maybe at the first 1000/1500 mile make you might take a look again.
Part # 3
Other than that, marks look good, better than most I have seen and that was about where my 450 engine ended up. Chains will stretch after a while so maybe at the first 1000/1500 mile make you might take a look again.
