$50 mod thread

Here is a neat way of keeping your zip ties from moving around on you and it gives them a neat apperance.

http://link.brightcove.com/services/player/bcpid1431564069?bclid=1432781645&bctid=1485316005

I got this from the EAA web site here:

http://www.eaa.org/video/homebuilders.html?videoId=19802261001

You will even find the zip tie stand off that JRK5892 posted earlier. Granted they are using it for fuel line. Even though EAA is for aircraft builders, a lot of the videos could be helpful for a bike builder.

Hope this helps.
 
TDC said:
Here is a neat way of keeping your zip ties from moving around on you and it gives them a neat apperance.
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Pretty good idea! I might try that.
 
Ya thats rad! So you just cut the wires from the old dash and join them to these wires? is it straight forward, like can you just eyeball each wire and use the wire colors to easily tell which to join? That seems like the hardest part really.....
 
gribbs said:
Ya thats rad! So you just cut the wires from the old dash and join them to these wires? is it straight forward, like can you just eyeball each wire and use the wire colors to easily tell which to join? That seems like the hardest part really.....
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Yeah, i took the stock setup and cut those wires then soldered them to the LED leads, then a bit of shrink tubing made it all look good! Just identify the stock power wires and solder to the red leads on the LED's.
 
Herm21 said:
Yeah, i took the stock setup and cut those wires then soldered them to the LED leads, then a bit of shrink tubing made it all look good! Just identify the stock power wires and solder to the red leads on the LED's.
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Don't LED's require less power to run than standard bulbs? me thinks you need some resistors inline.
 
Those cast-in, pre-packaged LED indicators usually have them built in since they are specifically FOR replacing incandescent indicator bulbs.
 
Swagger said:
Those cast-in, pre-packaged LED indicators usually have them built in since they are specifically FOR replacing incandescent indicator bulbs.
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That is absoluetly correct. these have them built in whcih is why they're a bit longer.
 
they also make them VERY small with built in resisters... i used those when i made a low rider dash fit on my st bob so i could run a tach and shift light
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Really! I looked for something shorter but couldn't find any. How bright are they Joe? I'm thinking of making my own "discreet" turn signals using something small like that. They'd be almost hidden until I turn them on is what i was thinking...
 
these are by NO mean turn sigs but are great to let you know as indicators... they are SUPER small about the size of a eraser head
 
For turnsignals, you want something 2-3 watts in an LED:
http://www.theledlight.com/LuxeonLEDs.html

since you want small and discrete, you make up for the small size by making them retina searingly bright.
 
damn! now that's the ticket!!! it's exactly what I was looking for. amazing how bright something so small can be! thanks dude.
 
It fits in between the top tree and clocks real nice and is pretty discrete and clean.
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This shit is brilliant!
 
goodfornothing said:
Not sure if this qualifies as a $50 mod, but more of an $8 fix. This was posted in my build thread.

Since I've grown concerned over a clogged crossover tube on my fuel tank, I decided it was time to fix it. Herm suggested that I heat the tube, bend it straight up/down, clear the clog with a drill and bend it back. Herm is a serious genius and I'm sure many of you would agree with me on that. However, this didn't really work for me. I used a micro butane torch, which didn't really heat up the tube, but instead, it ruined a bit of my paint job near the petcock (I'm an idiot). So I went with my original plan: I cut the tube out, cleared the clog, and JB welded a brass barbed nipple fitting over it. The whole fix cost no more than $8, all bought from HD! Some may think it looks silly but me likey!

Ghetto sleezy.
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I hope this holds up because the last thing I'd want is that jb breaking and dumping fuel on the engine and me. It would be in your best interest to take that stuff off and have a new tube welded in. It'll cost you right around what you paid for the JB and that brass fitting and will be much safer.

Of note: If you have a tube like that that's clogged, there's an easy fix. I use a 6" long piece of 16g piano wire (local hardware store) in a hand drill. It flexes to make the curve and will break up your clog. If you need, add a couple little 'Z' bends to really clean the tube out. That's it.....easy as pie and not a potential deathtrap.
 
not so much a mod but cool, helpful, and FREE. www.freepdfmanual.com just got a free service manual for my 350. tons of bikes, and cars available.
 
damn! there goes my genius status. :)

Kudos to you and Swag, excellent idea with the flexible wire and cables.
 
Terry said:
I got tired of looking at the big black plastic switches on the Yamaha XS650, Man what ugly crap things they are!! so I replaced them with switches from a Brit Bike shop. For about 20 bucks I got a reproduction switch called a TriCon. It has the horn button, a high/low dipper, and a red kill button that I used for a starter switch. It all fit on the left side between the grip and the lever perch, and they really cleaned up the bars. I also dumped the right side that had the on/off, and starter button, now I just run a key switch that I mounted under the tank. After getting rid of those chunks of crap and the stock instruments the head stock area really opened up and looks a lot better. I also used a Amal style thottle tube to replace the Yamaha tube.

Terry
J'ville, Fl.
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http://sterlingmotorworks.com/inc/sdetail/505
is this the one?
 
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