$50 mod thread

ahhhhh!!!! i remember!!!! my bro and dad run an opitcal clinic, as i have brought up... my bro took the lense to his store and used the tint unit they use for lenses to tint it red! i knew i remembered doing something... but to be honest swag you can get basicly any lense in red now
 
JRK5892 said:
... but to be honest swag you can get basicly any lense in red now

You wouldn't happen to have a link or source for those lenses would you?
I'd rather they were cast red rather than painted. The tinting is interesting but a whole lens is moreso....
 
I remember back in the day when my folks were doing a resto on their Alfa Romeo 105 Berlina they got their hands on some dedicated lens tint to bring the lenses back to their former glory. They had both amber and red for the lenses. Where, what and how much is beyond me but I know that it is out there. It looked shit hot when done too. Just like a bought one.
 
what ones bud? for the HD ones?
here is a good link for the new and old turn signal lenses...
http://www.customdynamics.com/harley.htm
 
Well, in my case I've got a honda and yamaha both that I'd like red lenses for....I'll have to look into it. Thanks Joe
 
well send me a pic of your lamps i got a box of turns i can look in for you, if i have one that matches i can have my brother take it to his office and drop it in the tint unit to make it red for ya... we can make this happen
 
Flugtechnik said:
Ha! :D

Oxalic Acid is also available in powdered form at any grocery store. I buy "Barkeepers Friend" in a goldish can in the cleaners isle. I use it to clean my stainless brewing equipment and pots, as well as my sink!

I've never tried it on chrome. The BKF does have an abrasive in it, but as long as you don't rub it on the part, it shouldn't scratch it.

I think a can is like $1.50.

This stuff rocks, Thanks for the TIP!!!!
 
Swagger said:
Well, in my case I've got a honda and yamaha both that I'd like red lenses for....I'll have to look into it. Thanks Joe

how's this swag?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Honda-NOS-OEM-Rear-Red-Turn-Signal-Lenses-CT70-90-CB350-CB450-CB550-CB750-/370568137758?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5647950c1e#ht_500wt_1202

redLenses.JPG


ian
 
$30.00 To Clean Inside Of Gas Tank ....................

I recently read here or on another site of a way to clean rust from within a gas tank for $30.00 and does not require coating. It is very simple to the point of being unbelievable but it WORKS!!!! First buy a large box of 1" long sheetrock screws, $20.00. Then buy 4 gal's of white vinegar from the grocery store, $10.00. Then simply insert all the sheetrock screws into the tank, close the cap and shake the hell out of it by hand. I shook it on and off for a day. Every time I walked past it I would shake it. This process knocks off all the loose rust within the tank. I removed the screws. Then simply filled the talk to the brim with vinegar and closed the cap. I let it set for two days. I then poured out all but approx. 1/2 gallon of vinegar. I then added the sheetrock screws again and shook the hell out of it again. Removed the screws again and refilled the tank with the same used vinegar. Let it set another day. Drained the vinegar out and flushed the tank out with a water hose. After flushing it out, I immediately pourd gas into the tank and sloshed it around good to evoraprate the water left in the tank and to keep it from flash rusting. It was that simple. It took it down to bare matal......... Mine looked so good after that I didn't even have to Kreem it inside. Wish I'd have taken before pics.......................
 
glennwood55cameo - now the bad news.

Petrol is hydrophilic, it absorbs water from the atmosphere. Left standing some of the water separates out and settles to the bottom of the tank where it can participate in rusting bare metal, especially when it has a multitude of scratches left by the screws. Coating the inside of the tank is always good in the longer term.

Crazy
 
I agree 100% it would be best to coat it but I'm going to see how it goes leaving it bare as an experiment to see exactly if and how much it will rust when left bare. I can always coat it at any point should it start showing signs of excessive rusting in the future..........
 
Good way to go about it Glenn. The only time you would have an issue with the bottom rusting out from hygroscopic separation is if you let is sit with a partial tank of gas for a long time.
At least that's my experience, I do drain the tank and float bowls when I park'm for a long period...most of the time (grumble).....
 
I can vouch for the white vinegar working.I use it all the time.I have never done a tank tho.I don't see a need for the screws to break up the rust.The tank should be filled as full as possible with the vinegar and left to sit.After 24 hours,rotate the tank to get complete coverage,and let sit another 24 hours.Then rinse and dry the tank.If there's still rust inside,repeat.Really bad pitted rust will need something stronger.

I have also heard of using citric acid.It's cheaper than vinegar and some what faster acting.It takes roughly two cups of citirc acid powder for a five gallon tank.Then fill with warm water,shake to mix the citric acid,let stand for 12 hours,shake again,flip the tank,and let it sit for another 12 hours.Finish up with a good hard 3 to 5 minute shake,pour out,rinse,and dry.I don't know how this will affect paint if it sits on it,but it running over or dripping on the paint should hurt it.Of course,you'll want to wipe the tank outside after the solution is poured out.

I use a cheapo Harbor Freight heat gun to dry out my tanks.I set it on the low setting and it's still about 300*F.I just aim it at the fill hole and let it blow into the tank from about 12 to 18 inches away.So far it has worked.One day I'll luck out and burn the paint off one of my tanks.I guess that'll give me a reason to change paints schemes.Never do this on a tank that has had fuel in it and hasn't been properly cleaned out.Most heat guns have a thermostat inside that sparks when it turns the heating element(s) on and off to regulate temp.
 
ben2go said:
I can vouch for the white vinegar working.I use it all the time.I have never done a tank tho.I don't see a need for the screws to break up the rust.
Hi ben, I think that the screws are vital to a good outcome. They seem to break up all the loose rust scale in the tank to allow the vinegar to do a better job. I have done it both ways, with and without the screws. The best outcome is achieved WITH the screws. Here is a pic of the huge pile of finely powered rust dust that came out when I emptyed the screws out..................The other pic is a tank I am currently soaking with vinegar. I will post the after pic when its done..........
 

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I see your point there.I haven't had any really bad tanks to do but I am about to start on two.They are so thin in spots that I can push holes through the side with my thumb nail.I hope I can save them.Lets keep the back and forth going on this.I have a feeling I am about to learn something. ;)
 
Swagger said:
Joe, what did you use to paint the lenses? I've messed with thinned lacquer and 'stained glass' paint.....

I have heard of folks using red tinted model car clear coat on the inside of the lenses with good results. YMMV
 
I posted an after pic, on this page, located several post back, of the tank I was cleaning out with vinegar. It really works!!!!!!!!!!!! Check out the before and after pics....................
 
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