72 CB 350 twin electrical advice needed!

Soltesjoey350

21 years young, 1972 Honda CB350.
Hey guys just found this website through DCC, and boy I'm glad I did. I'm the owner of a 72 350 twin, and I've been riding it for about 2 years now. I've really gotten into the motorcycle scene lately so I decided to upgrade a few things, and change the style of the bike.

Well I bought the rectifier/redulator combo from ricks motorsports and I'm having a hard time finding out what to do with certain wires. First of all I want o make sure I have it wired up correctly so I will post a pic of that.

Sorry for photobucket but I'm on a iPad lol http://s633.photobucket.com/user/soltesjoey/media/4c099ff9-53a1-45e8-9df1-19b9862f4b98_zpsb437bd4a.jpg.html?state=copy
 

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My second question is what I should do with these wires, they look super sketchy to me and I don't even think I need them anymore because they were attached to the old rectifier I believe...

I've tried tracing them on the wiring diagram and they're hard to find! The yellow I believe I traced down and went from the old rectifier to a switch up front. But I have all new switches now so I think I can take it out of the harness?

Sorry if this is hard to understand wiring is not for me...

http://s633.photobucket.com/user/soltesjoey/media/image_zpsc99bb0d4.jpg.html?state=copy
http://s633.photobucket.com/user/soltesjoey/media/image_zps8ee87572.jpg.html?state=copy
 
Yes, the yellow wire can be removed from the front of the harness so long as the yellow wire from the alternator travels directly to your new R/R.

The green/red wire from the alternator is your neutral light, though. I can't tell from the pics, but the green wire with the blue crimp is the same one that goes back to the alternator, right?
 
Thank you for the response! And I have another probably really dumb question. In the instructions for the new regulator/rectifier it says the green and red wire from the stator. Is that the same unit as the alternator?

As for the second question, yes. The green/red wire comes from the stator/alternator? But then from the new 4 way connector, goes up to the harness as per the instructions. I can get a better pic if that would help?

Thanks again!

Joey
 
Soltesjoey350 said:
Thank you for the response! And I have another probably really dumb question. In the instructions for the new regulator/rectifier it says the green and red wire from the stator. Is that the same unit as the alternator?

As for the second question, yes. The green/red wire comes from the stator/alternator? But then from the new 4 way connector, goes up to the harness as per the instructions. I can get a better pic if that would help?

Thanks again!

Joey

The stator is the part of the alternator that's doesn't move. The rotor is the parts that spins. Rotor rotates, stator stays. :)

Green/red wire is for your neutral light. As long as that's still working you're good to go. The other three wires from the alternator should all go directly to the R/R without joining or splicing in with anything else.
 
Thank you for dumbing that down for me. Did you happen to see those green wires? Is that how the come from the factory? It just seems a little unsafe to me. I believe that greens are the grounds on this bike but I'm not sure. The clymer manual is what I have and is very vague, not very helpful at all.

I put new bars on my bike and also all new switches from DCC so I'm trying to take off all the extra wires I won't be needing anymore. :-\

Thanks again for all your help thus far

Joey
 
That's how they come from factory, yeah. Soldered and then wrapped.

All greens are ground. If you plan on grounding anything to the bars or forks, but sure to run another ground wire back to the coil mounting point. All the grease in the neck sometimes interferes with the electrical connections and the extra ground wire can help out a lot.
 
Thanks for your help Sonreir! I'm sure I'll have some more questions for you sooner rather then later!

Joey
 
Alright another question here! I got a lot of my stuff working the past couple days. All off the new switch from DCC. Taillight is on, headlight switch is wired up and working(just need a new headlight), horn is working finally, and my turn signals are kinda working... And that's where my nest question is.

It seems like the flasher isn't kicking on. When I turn my left turn signal switch on both lights go on, but they will not flash. Same for the right side. Any ideas on what might cause this?

Thanks guys

Joey
 
Just double check you have everything going to the right terminals on the relay before you buy a new one. If you have the connections reversed I think you get the same result as that.
 
liam said:
Just double check you have everything going to the right terminals on the relay before you buy a new one. If you have the connections reversed I think you get the same result as that.

True.

The relay might be labeled with an L and a B. B is the black wire, L is the gray.
 
Sonreir said:
True.

The relay might be labeled with an L and a B. B is the black wire, L is the gray.

Will check this soon and report back! And no I have not switched over to LED signals, but I am planning to soon.

Thanks fellas

Joey
 
I did have that wired correctly as I thought. So let me run a new idea by you and get your thoughts. Since I have the new switch from DCC which is this one shown here
http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintage-cafe-racer-caferacer-bobber-brat-chopper-custom-motorcycle-handlebar-electronic-parts-left-side-control-switch-headlight-blinker-kill-horn-12-0041b.html
It has all new wires to wire to the bike harness. The instructions are ridiculous and only tell you what color each wire is meant for. So the brown and white wire says turn signal main wire. Now do you think that this might have to go to the flasher unit in place of the gray wire?

Thanks

Joey
 
Yup. I've wired that switch several times. Turn signal main is the gray wire (in the harness).
 
DAMN!!!! I finally figured that out then! Thanks man! I'll get back out there tomorrow and wire that bad boy up!

Thanks again for your help

Joey
 
Alright no such luck so far on the signals... Does the stock black wire stay on the flasher relay as a ground? There's a double connector that goes from the horn to the flasher so I'm guessing that's the ground. If so, how do I get power to the brown/white wires we were talking about?

I blew a fuse trying to get it to work straight from the battery power which was really dumb.

Do you have any idea which wires coming up throughout the headlight bucket should have power? With my test light I only have power to 2 wires which is a brown wire and a yellow/red wire.

I'm having a hell of a time trying to follow this wiring diagram.

Thank you again for your time, this is super frustrating for me :-[

Joey
 
Soltesjoey350 said:
Alright no such luck so far on the signals... Does the stock black wire stay on the flasher relay as a ground? There's a double connector that goes from the horn to the flasher so I'm guessing that's the ground. If so, how do I get power to the brown/white wires we were talking about?

I blew a fuse trying to get it to work straight from the battery power which was really dumb.

Do you have any idea which wires coming up throughout the headlight bucket should have power? With my test light I only have power to 2 wires which is a brown wire and a yellow/red wire.

I'm having a hell of a time trying to follow this wiring diagram.

Thank you again for your time, this is super frustrating for me :-[

Joey

Black wire for the flasher is the power. For two pin flashers, this will be the B pin. Gray wire to the L pin.

Horn is grounded through the handlbar switch, so the black wire going to the horn is for power, too.

Brown/white wires get power through the ignition switch and go for the parking lights and tail light, so they're separate from this circuit.

Any black, brown, or brown/white wires should have power when the ignition switch is on. Green are your ground wires, and most other colors are switched circuits for specific functions.
 
Sonreir I have another question for you! Remember how I asked you before if it was factory how they had 4 wires soldered to a single? Is there a better, more safe way to do this?

Joey
 
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