73cL350 ... turn signal problems

[bww_mn]

Hi,

Put my clipons on this weekend. I took all wiring apart when I took off the forks. Turn signals were working fine before my changes. I removed the front signals, so I'm only running my rears.

When I turn the left or right turn signal on, it lights up both rear turn signals steady.

I believe i have wired correctly. Maybe a ground issue? Any ideas?

Thanks,
Brad

 

[Rocan]

you have a short somewhere between the switch and the signals. might be a short within the switch.

 

[Big R]

If you're using the original signal relay, you need all 4 signals wired for them to work properly. If you just want to use the rear signals, you will have to get an electronic relay from an auto parts store or www.superbrightleds.com (love that site btw)

 

[bww_mn]

Rocan, BigR, thanks.

I yanked the heck out of the wires when I pulled them out of handlebars, so I don't doubt i messed something up.
I'm running an aftermarket relay, but it's a cheapo heat(?) one. Doesn't make sense that both lights would go on steady though?

I'll have to break out the multimeter.

- Brad

 

[Big R]

You still running the og speedo + dash lights? Just curious.

Try plugging in the front signals and see if that helps first. If all 4 work properly, then it's the relay.

And when you say "heat", do you mean an inline resistor?

 

[Rocan]

big R... i dont see a reason why the flasher relay would be sensitive to the number of signals plugged in. the split occurs in the switch; the relay simply provides the intermittent power to that switch. take a look at the wiring diagram and youll see what i mean.

 

[Big R]

I've just seen old relays do some pretty crazy things to lights....

 

[bww_mn]

I just tested out the switch. no short on the switch. the indicator light on the speedo wasn't working, so i disconnected the wires running to the speedo. I now get a solid left and a solid right when i turn on each signal.

My conclusion:
My relay may need a bigger load for it to flash.
There's a short in the speedo indicator area? Burnt out bulb could do it?

also, my relay is a thermal flasher relay. i assume this means the load heats creates the oscillation? I am running my standard gauges.


More to come.

Thanks,
Brad

 

[Big R]

Like I said, I've seen some crazy stuff mess with the signals.

Try to replace the indicator bulb in the speedo - that screwed me up before. The great thing about the electronic relays is that they will flash at a constant rate regardless of blown bulbs. You have to manually check that your signals are working, but it saves so many headaches down the road.

Just my 2 cents.

 

[bww_mn]

thanks big r.

I will get an electronic relay. in my haste last week, i grabbed the thermal relay from the autoparts store for $3 since that's all they had.

here's how a thermal relay works if you're interested. heat does cause an opening/closing of the circuit:
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/turn-signal2.htm

 

[crazypj]

big R... i dont see a reason why the flasher relay would be sensitive to the number of signals plugged in. the split occurs in the switch; the relay simply provides the intermittent power to that switch. take a look at the wiring diagram and youll see what i mean.

Pity there isn't a finger wagging 'smiley'. ;D
Pay attention in physics.
There is a thing called a bi-metallic strip.
As it heats up, it bends.
Thats whats inside a 'clicker' flasher relay to make and break circuit.
If you dont have enough resistance, (cos you removed front indicator lamps), it don't click.

bww_mn
To have both rears on, you probably have a wire connected that shouldn't be connected somewhere, or, as you speculate, bad grounds

 

[bww_mn]

bww_mn:
To have both rears on, you probably have a wire connected that shouldn't be connected somewhere, or, as you speculate, bad grounds


... is there a ground in the left and right controls? there's a set pin (i've read rip it out, so i did) and a metal strap (i assumed that held the wiring down vs made a ground connection w/ the handlebars).

Thanks,
Brad