77' kz650

[MotorbikeBruno]

Ah! That's what I thought you were trying to say, and to be honest I wouldn't know what to call it without looking at a parts diagram. Maybe a slide return spring? (sounds good to me? haha)

As for the no spark. Remember that your ignition unit (in the right engine cover) needs 12V to it, so it can pick up the signals. And your coils needs 12V to them too, as long as you have 12V to both of those, and the (black and green?) wires are hooked up to the coils, as they signal to tell them when to fire, you should have spark.

 

[MotorbikeBruno]

Umm you don't have points...that is an electronic ignition, it DOESN'T MOVE AT ALL. Or lets hope it doesn't....

What you do is put that back in there, close to where it was when you pulled it out. The slots allow you to retard or push the timing forward. Set up a 12V light (tail light on the bike or anything laying around like a blinker) Put the positive to Black or Green, and put the negative to ground (a bolt on the motor or similar) then you rotate the motor over and see if the light you have lights up. I'll pull my KZ550 cover off and verify that this works really quick :

I'll post results shortly, maybe with pics? haha

 

[MotorbikeBruno]

Well, mines a bit newer and has a CDI unit, so you'll have to ignore the fact that 2 wires are coming from each pickup.....unless yours has a CDI unit that you are missing.....I'm going to see if that's the case. Last pic is my igniter (CDI)

 

[MotorbikeBruno]

Just checked and it seems you do NOT have a CDI (which is a good thing!)

Here's what your original setup looked like (points) I found this pic when I fixed up my 76' KZ650 C

Note that it has black and Green. Your ignition plate has Yellow which is POWER, this MUST HAVE 12V going to it. The others go to the coils like my picture above of my coils on the KZ550. Hope that all helps!! If you don't have a voltmeter to check if you are getting power, go get one! haha It will save you tons of headaches, just a cheap $12 one will work wonders. 8)

 

[MotorbikeBruno]

Yeah, you should have power all over the place (as long as it's hooked up to the positive! haha) And the negative on the battery is grounded to the frame.

Get a voltmeter, doesn't have to be anything fancy, Something between 8-20$ is best, anything over 20 you will probably never use. Auto parts stores, and Home Depot or Menards will have them too. As for your diagram, nothing needs to be changed, it can stay the way I wrote it with ignition plate on there. Just remember Yellow is power to the ignition plate, and yes, a B model would have the standards Points, yours has been "upgraded" with the same electronic plate I had on my 1976 GL1000. Without power they won't work. So get that voltmeter and battery and we'll get that baby up and running much quicker!

 

[deepwaterimports]

what a rad little project well done

 

[teazer]

As MBB pointed out, your set up has an additional lead compared to points ignition. Usual points arrangement is battery to switch to coils to points/condensers to ground. Points ground out power.

Electronics are different and often have their own additional (usually red) lead to bring power in to power up the switching module.

That electronic system is a points replacement from someone like MARTEK and may not need a black box. The reluctor replaces the points cam and moves on the advance retard mechanism which is usually called something like Automatic Timing Device ATD or something similar. It should allow say 10 degrees of rotational movement.

I don't think it's Martek, but it comes from the same era.

 

[teazer]

Before I forget again, that rod arrangement is the accelerator pump linkage/actuating arm or whatever name Kawasaki came up with for it.

 

[MotorbikeBruno]

Yeah, there aren't any moving parts to wear out, so they are more reliable, once set, they really don't need to be set again, unless you are taking them off or some major engine work etc. Make sure that the rusty looking advance mechanism behind it moves freely. There are two mechanical arms that "swing" out with the centrifugal force of the engine spinning it. Also, if you pull it off, make sure it's put back on the exact way it came off, because if I remember right, they can be 180 degrees off. It will sit in there fine but cause issues...

As Teazer pointed out, some need black boxes, but that particular one you have does not. I remember hooking it up to my goldwing, very simple, plugged right into the coil leads (black and green) and then I hooked the yellow line up to my "ON" switch, that pretty much gives everything power other than the lights which were on a separate switch. KZ's are fun rides, my personal opinion is that they were way different from the other bikes of the time and I like em. Get that Voltmeter now! haha

 

[MotorbikeBruno]

Depends on how big you are and how you like to ride. My KZ550 is a weapon with it's shorter stance, and hell I KNOW I'm not the best rider by any means although at 70+ mph (highway to my house) it's not as "happy" feeling :

Glad to hear you are getting a batt and voltmeter! I wish you good luck sir. Take pictures so if you have questions we can help more easily.

 

[MotorbikeBruno]

I just want a longer rear swing arm and a longer seat hoop and the gpz would be prime. Is that too much to ask for! :'(

Nope

If there is a will, there is a way. But it usually ends up costing you more $$$ !

 

[MotorbikeBruno]

Um....if gas is "leaking" out of your carb boots....your problem lies within the carbs themselves, as gas is not shutting off, and usually coming up the main jet/slide needle hole. This usually results in GASOIL! Gas goes down the intake tract to the cylinder, gets past your rings and down into your oil. Then you start your bike and BOOOM! Just kidding, usually it just eats up your lower bearings and destroys your engine :


If you are talking about the FLOAT bowl gasket, then forget all of what I just said. ;D

And remember. Start taking pics and adding them so we can see what's going on and what you are looking at, as you said the terminology you know isn't the best.

 

[MotorbikeBruno]

Nice

You are indeed correct. What's not good, is fuel leaking out of them. If you turn it to "on" and don't try and turn it over at all, does it leak from them? Second question, if you turn it to PRIME does it leak out of them?

Ouch: http://www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDetails.aspx?itemDescription=Carb+Holders+(4)+KZ650+24+rubber&item=KL11-5444X2

No boots here, but just in case: http://www.partsnmore.com/parts/kawasaki/kz650b/?filters[fitting]=custom

 

[MotorbikeBruno]

Time to make a build thread I think sir, as you are still in introductions. But, just in case you ever want to change the name of the thread, go back to the original thread (first post), click edit or "modify" it and change the name to whatever you want. the GPZ frame is sick.

Place the link of your build thread in this just in case so we can find it.