78 cb750F Front Suspension

Calikid91

Active Member
Whats up guys, I have two questions.

I ordered all balls tapered bearings... is there any DIY on the forum for this? I have searched and only got some for like a cb360... I've heard people have to ffreeze them? I'm not too sure about the process, i would figure you just grease them up and tap them in??

secondly
I am rebuilding my forks. the manual says use HONDA ATF for the fluids, is this correct or should i use fork oil? I know the manual is old so if you have any tips let me know.
 
What exactly are you confused about the bearings? They are pretty strait forward (as long as you get rid of the factory races)

When I re-did my forks i used transmission fluid :)
 
i'm about to be installign the all balls kit and joker machine triple tree on my 78' cb750f, ill be sure to take pics of the process, very easy. i used 10w-30 oil for my forks
 
Finnigan said:
What exactly are you confused about the bearings? They are pretty strait forward (as long as you get rid of the factory races)

When I re-did my forks i used transmission fluid :)

Im not too sure if my races are already out? Also I've heard people freezing the races? Why? Also what grease does everyone recommend and any other tips to make the install easy and done right.
 
Calikid91 said:
Im not too sure if my races are already out? Also I've heard people freezing the races? Why? Also what grease does everyone recommend and any other tips to make the install easy and done right.

You can feel them if you reach in there, i didn't freeze mine but the idea is to get them as cold as possible so they shrink and go in easier. I tapped mine in with a rubber hammer to get them started, then put the triples in and torqued them down with the nut until they were pressed in. Then tighten the nut until you can't move the triple in the frame (as tight as it will go) and back it off 1/4 turn so you know they are seated in the frame. I used high temp/heavy duty/auto bearing grease that you can find at any hardware store, smeared it all over with my finger and called it good.
 
My 1981 CB750K was a pain.
The top was easy to get the race out but the bottom one is anngled out and has a lip so there was no way to get it out by tapping from the other end.
I finally too a dremel cutting wheel to mine and just gradually cut through it until I could finally take a screw driver to the groove I had cut and get it to move and it finally just popped out. But it was a pain in the a$$.

If there is anyway possible you can get to it and tap it out go that way.
 
thanks guys! i'll figure it out once i get the kit. its in the mail! hopefully i'll get to it this week :)
 
Finnigan said:
You can feel them if you reach in there, i didn't freeze mine but the idea is to get them as cold as possible so they shrink and go in easier. I tapped mine in with a rubber hammer to get them started, then put the triples in and torqued them down with the nut until they were pressed in. Then tighten the nut until you can't move the triple in the frame (as tight as it will go) and back it off 1/4 turn so you know they are seated in the frame. I used high temp/heavy duty/auto bearing grease that you can find at any hardware store, smeared it all over with my finger and called it good.

The problem with this method is that it can cause the rollers to dent the bearing race. A hammer and a brass drift is workable. Brass is softer than the steel races and won't damage them.

If you use an old race as a spacer, and leave the rollers out, then the stem nut can be used.

Or get some 1/2 in all thread rod, couple of nuts, and some heavy fender washers, you could make a jig that could pull the races in.

Freezing them is easy, and helps a lot....
 
Hi guys. Had a question. Do I need to cut the top and bottom silver rings or do i leave those on? Im not too sure if the all balls runs on top of those and those sit on the new races? Confused!!
 

Attachments

  • ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364176201.213115.jpg
    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364176201.213115.jpg
    23.1 KB · Views: 400
  • ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364176210.509181.jpg
    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364176210.509181.jpg
    167.5 KB · Views: 441
It's a little hard to tell from the pics, but if you're putting in the tapered all balls bearing kits like most of us have you need to cut those tough little races off. I did mine with a dremel in two spots, then pried it with a flathead screwdriver
 
Finnigan said:
It's a little hard to tell from the pics, but if you're putting in the tapered all balls bearing kits like most of us have you need to cut those tough little races off. I did mine with a dremel in two spots, then pried it with a flathead screwdriver

Finnigan. Are you talking about the one on the bottom? The one on the top ended the triple stree can slide off. The bottom one can't.
 
yah the two races should be pressed on pretty tightly, thats why you have to usually cut them off. If they are made to hold ball bearings (quarter spherical shaped) then they need to come off to get the new ones to fit properly. I can take a close up of the one I cut off my triples when I get home, pretty sure thats what it is though
 
Is this top gap correct? I read somewhere its not supposed to sit flush?
 

Attachments

  • ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364495837.534153.jpg
    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364495837.534153.jpg
    145.5 KB · Views: 504
As long as the race is sitting all the way in, resting on the seat for the old race, it's good. This is pretty typical of tapered bearing conversions.
 
How do I know if its sitting on the old one? And also i don't needs to grease the tCe when i tap em in right
 
new race wouldnt have gone in at all because the old cup would prevent it from going in,if i read the question correctly.
outll know its all the way in when the sound of it being tapped in changes
 
Could someone please confirm the cb750f stem length please? contemplating a fuel front end swap into my 64 bomber. Bearings are the same, and I have heard "direct swap" which always makes me nervous - lol

Oh and yes, I could go more modern, i know, but I am probably going to retain the drum up front on this build, and i do want to retain the older school appearance. -

Thanks for letting me hijack
J
 
Back
Top Bottom