81 CB650 Brat/Cafe Build

What's the price difference like between o-ring and x-ring?

I would just go with an o-ring one, as the only real benefit you'll see with the x-ring is reduced maintenance. Its not hard to clean and lube a chain every few months though. :)
 
If you're not getting new sprockets you may as well just get a cheap chain because old sprockets will wear out a new chain pretty quick.
 
hillsy said:
If you're not getting new sprockets you may as well just get a cheap chain because old sprockets will wear out a new chain pretty quick.
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I have brand new sprockets on the way.

Green199 said:
What's the price difference like between o-ring and x-ring?

I would just go with an o-ring one, as the only real benefit you'll see with the x-ring is reduced maintenance. Its not hard to clean and lube a chain every few months though. :)
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There's a decent price gap between non sealed chains and then the o-ring and then x-ring is even pricier. I also read that the sealed chains are thicker and you need to run offset sprockets to avoid the chain from hitting the case. I may just go with a good quality non sealed regular roller chain for now. Ill teach me good maintenance habits.
 
Also non-sealed chains offer less rolling resistance than sealed ones. Maybe not so important on a 650, but it can be noticeable on a smaller motor.
 
hillsy said:
Also non-sealed chains offer less rolling resistance than sealed ones. Maybe not so important on a 650, but it can be noticeable on a smaller motor.
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I did read that. I'm not looking to make this bike any faster than it is. Hell, I've ridden my buddy's 250 ninja and thought it was fast (don't judge me, it was my first time on a bike).

Right, standard roller chain it is. Now what brand is a good mid level one? DID, EK, JT, TC Bros, etc?
 
Fabbed up the battery tray and a front turn signal mount today. The tray will work perfect for this season. I'm waiting for the turn signals to get here before I drill the holes.



 
Apparently 35mm fork nuts don't fit 35mm forks. These 35mm fork nuts are off a CB750 and they are a tad smaller than the air assist fork nuts on my forks. I guess I'll plug the holes on the air assist nuts with an M8x12 bolt with an o-ring and reuse them. Bummer.



 
focusinprogress said:
according to my email, I'd agree lol.
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I've been thinking about that box all day actually. Can't wait to get home to it! But this is something bigger. 8)
 
So the acquisition is still in the works but in the meantime, the ZX600 carbs and headers I bought off of focusinprogress have arrived so I can start making sure they are good to go and put the remaining exhaust studs back in.
 
Finally got all the exhaust studs in and finalized as well as mounted a new JT rear sprocket. Bought a DID chain that should be here early next week and I'll throw that and the new front sprocket on and put the motor back in. Also threw on the rear shocks and 17" wheel to see how it sat. I have about 2.25" of clearance.


 
dualero said:
That tire is surely hitting the seat man

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I thought it would when I sat on it but it hardly moved at all. Then again the motor isn't in it.

I also need a front tire. The one that's on the wheel now is 3.50 x 19. I don't want a high end tire, just something decent to run this season as I will probably do a fork swap next winter if everything works out on the bike.
 
The whole rear frame section needs to be rebuilt correctly. Do not attempt to fix your mistake with another mistake such as long shocks. Pretty sure you were told weeks ago that it would hit. Spilled milk get a towel not a tissue
 
DohcBikes said:
The whole rear frame section needs to be rebuilt correctly. Do not attempt to fix your mistake with another mistake such as long shocks. Pretty sure you were told weeks ago that it would hit. Spilled milk get a towel not a tissue
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+1 to this.

The purpose of my shock question was to point out that you should rebuild the sun frame with the final shocks on there so that you can accurately build to them, not to the shocks That you're going to throw away.


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treitz said:
+1 to this.

The purpose of my shock question was to point out that you should rebuild the sun frame with the final shocks on there so that you can accurately build to them, not to the shocks That you're going to throw away.


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Even though you don't necessarily have the new shocks right now you could just take whatever scrap you have around and make some makeshift shocks. Take a flat bar, piece of wood, drill two holes with the new shock length and build the hell out of that sub frame, as treitz suggest.


Again.

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treitz said:
Are those the shocks you're going to run?


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No these are not the shocks I will run. I put the rear wheel on out of pure curiosity to see the fitment. I am talking to Chris and proper rear shocks are in the works. I don't see a problem with the frame the way it is. I simply put a loop on, something that many people have done so if someone could point out exactly what is wrong and my options to fix it I will.
 
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