vandito.cb
Been Around the Block
now that looks good. you sure you really want to sell it?
vandito.cb said:now that looks good. you sure you really want to sell it?
I was told it's just corrosion and general wear and tear. I realized later my coils weren't the issue. It was the spark plug boots. Give them a check. Food for thought.adventurco said:Right then. Had her running the other day off the fuel tank for the first time. Charging system has got to be FUBAR. Had her idling for a few minutes, killed, then tried to start up a few min later and the batt was dead. Threw it on the charger over the weekend and here we are.
Trying to fire it up today and not even a stumble. Starter is cranking over fine. So I'm back to square one. Spark test showed a weak ass spark, so I broke out the multimeter and tested the coils. Primary coil resistance was fine at about 4 ohms on both coils, but not getting a reading on the secondary coil circuit (spark plug lead to ground) whatsoever, on either side. Seems odd, since I had it running pretty strong idling at 1,200 before I left for the weekend...
What could cause fried coils all of a sudden? Ignition was off all weekend and the battery was outta the bike on the charger. Fuses all check out.
snmavridis said:I was told it's just corrosion and general wear and tear. I realized later my coils weren't the issue. It was the spark plug boots. Give them a check. Food for thought.
NoRiders said:Could be plug caps?
adventurco said:Anyways, is there a way to test a "new" R/R? I haven't live tested the stator yet, so at the moment evidence is pointing to a faulty R/R, and wondering if that could cause the coils to go haywire? The coils are directly wired up to the CDI but not directly to the R/R or stator. Just spitballing here.
hillsy said:If you have a multimeter and a manual there should be some tests in there.
It's pretty unlikely that an RR going AWOL would just affect your coils - the result of a faulty RR is normally no voltage, but in the rare case that it would send excess / enough voltage through to destroy a coil it would pretty much kill everything else (fuses, CDI, lights - the whole lot).
adventurco said:The bike was originally wired with separate regulator and rectifier. Not exactly sure how the tests would translate over to a modern combo unit. No fuses were blown, and the rest of the electrical system seems to be working fine.
Well, except for the charging system ;D
hillsy said:Really? I thought by 82 they all were combo units??
Anyway, it's EXTREMELY unlikely a failed RR will shoot out excess voltage - they normally fail and just don't charge at all.
Have you tested the AC voltage coming out of the stator? You should have over 50V AC from each of the 3 wires at 4-5K rpm (should be closer to 80-90V AC). If that checks out, and you're not getting 13.5+ at the battery, then it's either a dead RR or bad wiring.
adventurco said:Yeah, I think it was a combo unit from the factory. I'm getting my motorbikes confused, too many around right now.
I've got to replace the coils to get her running again, then I will live test the stator. It could totally be bad wiring, too. I haven't ripped into the harness on this thing and I'm not going to unless I really have to..., but the PO was a hack "mechanic" to say the least.
adventurco said:So I ended up buying another set of coils, since the original ones tested as junk. Second set came in, also testing dead. I'm thinking maybe it's my multimeter. Sure enough my buddy stops by with his meter and the orig coils are actually still good, but the "new" ones were dead. Sending those back, so now I'm looking at a fuel issue.
Only the #3 cylinder was noticeably wet when I pulled the plugs after attempting to start for a bit. When I put the petcock in 'prime' I can see fuel flowing to fill up the bowls. I had previously been cranking over with petcock in 'on' position. I know these petcocks are junk. Next chance I get I'm gonna pull the tank and try and run her off the bottle.
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adventurco said:Now onto the charging system. No change in voltage whatsoever when holding at 5k RPM. A static test of the alternator showed no open circuits. I'm about to check it with a live load test. Is there a way to test these combo R/R units?
hillsy said:Check the AC voltage coming out of your stator wires. You should have over 60VAC at 5K rpm on each combination of the 3 wires.
The RR you had pictured earlier looks like a Honda one (they use green as ground). Make sure you've wired it up correctly. The 3 yellow go to the stator, red is +ve to the battery, green will be -ve to ground.