I’ve got a 82 gs850 that doesn’t want to idle. I’ve cleaned the carbs in a ultrasonic tank, installed rebuild kits, replaced the engine intake boots, and went up 2 sizes on the main and pilot jets to compensate for pod filters and open exhaust. When it does run the choke has to be on and when I crack the throttle it dies. Everything points to running lean but I’ve gone up to 4 turns out on the idle/air screws and it doesn’t make a difference. Figured I’d get some opinions before I buy more jets. thanks
82 gs850 idle issues
- Thread starter JBAC86
- Start date
It runs the the same with the pods on or off. The carbs were completely disassembled and split apart so just the carb bodies were put in the ultrasonic tank the emulsion tubes were cleaned separately and all the jets are new
Just by touching the pipes cylinders 2 and 3 seem warmer than 1 and 4
Just to add the bike doesn’t want to idle at all if I pull the choke all the way out it runs at 3000 rpm when I push it in about half way I can get it down to 1000 but it dies shortly after
peteGSX
Zuk's Rock!
Some things with GS' that can cause issues here...
Are your valve clearances in spec?
Have you balanced the carbs? (Do that after valve clearances not before)
Looks like pods and potentially a free flowing exhaust, which is likely going to need richening up possibly significantly.
On my Katana, my exhaust isn't all that free flowing but I have the stock rubber velocity stacks with Ramair sock filters and I still had to go up a few pilot jet sizes before it would idle nicely, symptoms exactly as you are saying (when I had stock carbs on it anyway).
Once the mixture screws are wound out beyond about three turns you've maxed the adjustment out and need to increase pilot jet size.
If you keep the choke open and crack the throttle, does it still die?
Have you been able to run it long enough to get properly up to temperature, and if so does that make it better? They run richer when warmed up.
Have you adjusted the needle at all? If the needle is still in the stock location and slides lift, it could be the needle jet that's too lean, and adjusting pilot and main jets won't help with that.
Also, how is your plug colour? I'm not great at reading plug colours myself, but if you start with fresh clean plugs and do a plug chop you'll see if it's really lean (white) at least.
Caveat on the above is I'm no guru, that's just my limited experience from my 82 GS450 and 84 Katana.
Are your valve clearances in spec?
Have you balanced the carbs? (Do that after valve clearances not before)
Looks like pods and potentially a free flowing exhaust, which is likely going to need richening up possibly significantly.
On my Katana, my exhaust isn't all that free flowing but I have the stock rubber velocity stacks with Ramair sock filters and I still had to go up a few pilot jet sizes before it would idle nicely, symptoms exactly as you are saying (when I had stock carbs on it anyway).
Once the mixture screws are wound out beyond about three turns you've maxed the adjustment out and need to increase pilot jet size.
If you keep the choke open and crack the throttle, does it still die?
Have you been able to run it long enough to get properly up to temperature, and if so does that make it better? They run richer when warmed up.
Have you adjusted the needle at all? If the needle is still in the stock location and slides lift, it could be the needle jet that's too lean, and adjusting pilot and main jets won't help with that.
Also, how is your plug colour? I'm not great at reading plug colours myself, but if you start with fresh clean plugs and do a plug chop you'll see if it's really lean (white) at least.
Caveat on the above is I'm no guru, that's just my limited experience from my 82 GS450 and 84 Katana.
