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Is the resistance out of tolerance, or do you have an open connection (no ohms)? If the latter, you might be able to figure out where the wire break is and re-solder it.
Is the resistance out of tolerance, or do you have an open connection (no ohms)? If the latter, you might be able to figure out where the wire break is and re-solder it.
The reason I gave you the advice to (possibly) fix the one you already have is that this item was only available for a couple years (the latter liquid-cooled twins use a different sensor) and NOS pickup coils are expensive (if you can find them).
Compression did raise slightly, but nothing to cause it to run any better.
I don't know what else I can adjust, replace or diagnose. Before I even start to tear down the engine I may drop if off at a shop to have it fully diagnosed to confirm. I hate chasing issues.
Compression did raise slightly, but nothing to cause it to run any better.
I don't know what else I can adjust, replace or diagnose. Before I even start to tear down the engine I may drop if off at a shop to have it fully diagnosed to confirm. I hate chasing issues.
Electronics tray/box is aluminum. I think it's 14g or 16g. It's pretty thin, I didn't need anything thicker as it needed to bent the shape of the frame.
In both my Kaw factory parts book and my Clymers the pilot jet (92064) is under the plastic plug (with small "O" ring) and was either a #35 (limited countries) or #38. There are 2 (92063) main jets per carb; one (the main, pri) under the main emulsion tube was a #70 (#75 for racing), the other (main, 2nd) under the emulsion tube the needle valve from the diaphragm goes in) could be all sorts of values from #82 to #92 depending on country and application.
The fully (factory) mechanical was used with the points ignition (anything pre-'80 in the USA). Points kits are easy to obtain and the advancer mechanism works well if lubricated. The "half electric" advancer combined the previous mechanical cam/weighted advancer with a Hall-effect pickup and a TCI ignition module (no points). Only used for a couple years and parts are now becoming scarce (the liquid-cooled twin uses a completely different ignition system). "Full electric" might be an aftermarket Boyer unit? Not ever seen one so I can't comment. Another option (for points) is to use a NOS CDI unit from back in the day. Extends the points' life way longer as only the signal current runs through them (ignition current runs through the CDI unit).
The fully mechanical was used with the points ignition (anything pre-'80 in the USA). Points kits are easy to obtain and the advancer mechanism works well if lubricated. The "half electric" advancer combined the previous mechanical cam/weighted advancer with a Hall-effect pickup and a TCI ignition module.
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