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After plenty of research and polishing my carbs I've started to polish my engine however I'm having a problem I can't figure out. When I polished my carbs all I used was a mouse sander working from coarse grit to ultra fine then I slowly polished it by hand and in my opinion they came out great. However to do the bigger parts of my engine I went out to harbor freight and purchased a 6in bench buffer. After going through the process of sanding the parts again this time by hand (mouse sander broke) I went to go and polish it with the bench buffer but it just turned everything black. The buffer came with a buffing wheel and spiral sewn. I didn't really use the buffing wheel and applied white rouge to the spiral sewn when I put the metal to the wheel it started to turn black. After working with the carbs I know this happens at first and then cleans up but after standing there for almost twenty minutes it just kept turning it black and now the wheel is totally black. I'm going to go out tomorrow and buy a new wheel. Can someone please tell me what I'm possibly doing wrong.
With that big buffer you need to use it while the metal is warm, almost too warm to touch. Get some mechanics gloves and hit the area with the buffer wheel until the spot heats up noticeably, not TOO much or you'll get black stuff instead of a nice polish. This was the trick when doing mine
Sounds like you might be using too much compound and after whet sanding very fine use black emery on the spiral sewn wheel when you are done clean it a little to get excess compound off then use white rouge on the loose wheel.
I'm confused I thought one problem might be that I was applying too much pressure and causing too much friction and heat which turned it black. And what compound should I use on the heavier buffer wheel. I'm going to go out tomorrow and but better compounds and wheels....I think I could of made a pillow with all the thread that cane flying off
I think you problem is going to be you are using too much compound and not getting it hot enough. use the black compound on the stiff wheel first until you get an even finish then go to the looser wheel with the white compound. there will be a lot of string that comes off. I hope this helps, I have the same buffer and use the stock wheels.
I have the same buffer. It was very affordable, but it is sadly underpowered. The key to buffing is to build some heat in the piece you are polishing. Because that buffer is so modest in power, it can be difficult to get larger pieces warm enough to melt the compound. I've found that if I preheat the piece in a warm oven first, the work goes much faster.
Emery (black) is the compound you want to start with after sanding. When you switch to a finer compound, you should switch wheels. I always dedicate my buffing wheels to a specific compound.
+1 on the wrong compound, start aluminum with either stainless compound, tripoli, or black, white is for high luster, it won't do anything but put a nicer gloss on an already glossy part
Some people make the mistake of spending to much time on the sanding. I find down to 600 grit is fine.. If your using a links her. Then it all comes down to sisal wheels and compounds. One compound per wheel and occasionally rake the wheel so you're not getting crud wrecking your hard work
Emery (black) is the compound you want to start with after sanding. When you switch to a finer compound, you should switch wheels. I always dedicate my buffing wheels to a specific compound.
+1 on the compound selection and the idea of dedicated wheels. The combination of a sissal wheel and emery will cut quickly and remove any 600 grit sanding marks. Move to a spiral sewn wheel and tripoli to refine the polish. the last stage should be a loose wheel and white rouge. It will only further refine the polish and add lustre and depth.
All buffing wheels will quickly turn black. They will not retain the colour of the compound used.
I use a black magic marker on both sides of the wheel to label each with the compound which I have used. Each wheel is dedicated and I never mix compounds on the same wheel. I also clean the object with alcohol or other solvent when switching wheels to prevent wheel contamination.
i found that there was a clear coat or paint on some of the parts i polished and it took some elbow grease to get that coating off of the parts.if it was still on there it turned black
I use a good sized food container to keep each individual compound and the wheels, buffs and points I use with that compound. Keeping them in a closed container prevents contamination with shop dirt.
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