Anyone into archery? [Pics of new bow up]
- Thread starter boingk
- Start date
boingk
Standard gearhead.
Haha, no sights for me, no siree! A compound would be nice, but I'm a sucker for the traditional stuff. Plus I'm on a budget.
I've got my fair share of string slap already and am ordering a guard ASAP. Yeah, it hurts alright. Nothing cool or tough about it... just stupiud hahaha.
Oh yeah Rocan, if you wanted the details of the guy I ordered this bow from he is on eBay and lives in Minnesota. Try searching for 50# 58" hickory bow and he'll probably pop up. If that doesn't work then I can always look up my eBay history for you.
Cheers - boingk
I've got my fair share of string slap already and am ordering a guard ASAP. Yeah, it hurts alright. Nothing cool or tough about it... just stupiud hahaha.
Oh yeah Rocan, if you wanted the details of the guy I ordered this bow from he is on eBay and lives in Minnesota. Try searching for 50# 58" hickory bow and he'll probably pop up. If that doesn't work then I can always look up my eBay history for you.
Cheers - boingk
I cant (kant?) my bow about 45° when shooting. But I was taught by blanketasses* so what do they know ; )
*blanketass- a derogitory name for native americans (in my case Cherokee) A blanketass was a person who sat outside a fort or trading post, wrapped in a blanket, begging for booze.
*blanketass- a derogitory name for native americans (in my case Cherokee) A blanketass was a person who sat outside a fort or trading post, wrapped in a blanket, begging for booze.
Big R
Heaven is so far away.
While I totally dig the traditional bow, sights are REALLY nice. I don't shoot targets, and I hate to wound an animal. Know what I mean?
There are a couple guys I work with that shoot traditional bows. But they have been doing it for 30+ years. Heck, the one guy made his own bow and string, cuts his own wooden shafts, and sharpens stones for arrowheads. More power to him.
There are a couple guys I work with that shoot traditional bows. But they have been doing it for 30+ years. Heck, the one guy made his own bow and string, cuts his own wooden shafts, and sharpens stones for arrowheads. More power to him.
boingk
Standard gearhead.
Definitely hear you, Rich. I mean, I go shooting with mates that'll group single-holers at 100 yards and can take out a 'roo going full tilt through the bush... wounding an animal is bad practise and just plain cruel. On making my own everything, I reckon I could do without that haha. I'll stick to working on my bikes.
4eyes - You were taught by Cherokees? Dude, thats awesome! I've tried canting my bow a bit and found it doesn't seem to help much... although I can imagine it being very useful for keeping the arrow stable against the bow if you're shooting from horseback.
- boingk
4eyes - You were taught by Cherokees? Dude, thats awesome! I've tried canting my bow a bit and found it doesn't seem to help much... although I can imagine it being very useful for keeping the arrow stable against the bow if you're shooting from horseback.
- boingk
biker_reject
Over 1,000 Posts
I was taught by white boys. 
boingk
Standard gearhead.
Cool stuff 4eyes. My heritage is English, Scottish, Irish and 1/16 Chinese. Pretty run of the mill for an Aussie.
I'm teaching myself... so far, and after only a couple of sessions, I'm getting a lot better at judjing shots and general bowmanship. had to tighten the string slightly to account for the bow breaking in but other than that its all good.
One thing though... The arrows I'm running are 19 grams, or 290 grains (shaft only). What should I be looking at for tipping them, 200 grain points? 250?
Cheers - boingk
I'm teaching myself... so far, and after only a couple of sessions, I'm getting a lot better at judjing shots and general bowmanship. had to tighten the string slightly to account for the bow breaking in but other than that its all good.
One thing though... The arrows I'm running are 19 grams, or 290 grains (shaft only). What should I be looking at for tipping them, 200 grain points? 250?
Cheers - boingk
CresentSon
Over 1,000 Posts
Arrow and tip weight selection is like carb tuning. The weight of the head is offset by fletch length. The balance between the two is affected by draw length, bow weight, shelf offset, the moon phase, luck, moral ambiguity, chaos theory, etc...
Best bet is a variety pack, and adjust to match your arrows. Hitting too low, lighten up the tip or use longer feathers. Too high, vice versa.
Cheers.
Best bet is a variety pack, and adjust to match your arrows. Hitting too low, lighten up the tip or use longer feathers. Too high, vice versa.
Cheers.
biker_reject
Over 1,000 Posts
Is that criteria just for traditional bows or compounds as well? Just asking because the trend in hunting compounds seems to be these tiny plastic vanes. I've always used standard 4" feathers because of their forgiving nature. Look purty too!
CresentSon
Over 1,000 Posts
The higher the power and speed of the bow the more the effects of the feathers are negated. A real missle launcher is gonna fire a bit straighter, but tip weight and fletch length are still a factor.
biker_reject
Over 1,000 Posts
This whole thread has got me looking at stick bows on-line, dammit. That brings to mind another question. do traditional bows loose performance over many years (10-20)? I would assume they would, but I really don't know. I have taken notice of some decent looking used recurves on ebay that are not at all expensive. They're old, though.
BlackCoyote
Active Member
the all wood self bows will loose some performance if left strung or shot a lot..they'll take a "set" and stay in the strung shape. I've taken several deer with recurves and long bows older than me, just watch for stress lines, cracks, deliminations and such and you'll be fine. If you pick up an old bow that you know hasn't been shot in years, string it at a low brace height, and exercise it before shooting it all out.
Most bowyers recommend the arrows be in the 8-10 grain per inch range...it will help your bow last longer and make it much more quiet. Yes, too light of an arrow will make a bow explode..i've seen it on the range. Carbon your best bet is add tip weight, different points or brass inserts, so on.
Have you bare shafted your arrows or paper tuned them? You shouldn't need feathers if your arrows are tuned properly, until you shoot broadheads..all feathers do is help stabilze the arrow faster (flex recovery when released).
As for the arm slap turn your wrist in on your bow arm..(like your picking up a heavy suit case) it will eliminate string slap, also your string brace height may be a touch low.
Looks like an awesome bow, but man you need some primative arrows to match...those carbons just don't feel right, lol! I don't know what the shipping would be overseas but I'll see if I can scrounge you up some cedar shafts, and fletch them with some wild turkey feathers.
Enjoy your new toy! And make sure you get someone else into archery especially the kids!
Most bowyers recommend the arrows be in the 8-10 grain per inch range...it will help your bow last longer and make it much more quiet. Yes, too light of an arrow will make a bow explode..i've seen it on the range. Carbon your best bet is add tip weight, different points or brass inserts, so on.
Have you bare shafted your arrows or paper tuned them? You shouldn't need feathers if your arrows are tuned properly, until you shoot broadheads..all feathers do is help stabilze the arrow faster (flex recovery when released).
As for the arm slap turn your wrist in on your bow arm..(like your picking up a heavy suit case) it will eliminate string slap, also your string brace height may be a touch low.
Looks like an awesome bow, but man you need some primative arrows to match...those carbons just don't feel right, lol! I don't know what the shipping would be overseas but I'll see if I can scrounge you up some cedar shafts, and fletch them with some wild turkey feathers.
Enjoy your new toy! And make sure you get someone else into archery especially the kids!
boingk
Standard gearhead.
Cheers guys, and biker_reject... yeah don't get me started haha.
I've finally gone with Tusker 200g 'Aztec' broadheads, which bring my arrows to 585gr overall weight. Also did some research and found it'd be beneficial to run a heavy broadhead on a light arrow as the further forward of centre (FOC) your weight distribution is, the better penetration you'll get when hunting and the more effective your fletching becomes (longer distance to pivot the shaft around).
Heres a net photo:
Oh yeah BC, the traditional arrows are what I'd like to end up with, but I decided on carbons initially as if I go compound later then they'll be fine for that was well. They're also a bit more forgiving (wont break) from what I've heard.
Cheers all - boingk
I've finally gone with Tusker 200g 'Aztec' broadheads, which bring my arrows to 585gr overall weight. Also did some research and found it'd be beneficial to run a heavy broadhead on a light arrow as the further forward of centre (FOC) your weight distribution is, the better penetration you'll get when hunting and the more effective your fletching becomes (longer distance to pivot the shaft around).
Heres a net photo:
Oh yeah BC, the traditional arrows are what I'd like to end up with, but I decided on carbons initially as if I go compound later then they'll be fine for that was well. They're also a bit more forgiving (wont break) from what I've heard.
Cheers all - boingk
BlackCoyote
Active Member
excellent choice on broadheads and their in your neck of the woods too...they hold a good edge and sharpen easy. The tips tend to bend up sometimes,but you can always file a tanto tip on them. FOC is good especially with hunting arrows, I'm up to 300 grains up front and with razor sharp two blade broadheads I haven't had any issue with pentration on game even when hitting a shoulder bone.
No worries on arrow choice, I was just joking with ya..if you're shooting alot and your carbons are breaking after the insert, you can foot them with a small piece of aluminum arrow (if you have access to them) it reduces the hinge point effect the internal insert creates when hitting something hard. I do this with a lot of my small game arrows, or stump shooting arrows.
No worries on arrow choice, I was just joking with ya..if you're shooting alot and your carbons are breaking after the insert, you can foot them with a small piece of aluminum arrow (if you have access to them) it reduces the hinge point effect the internal insert creates when hitting something hard. I do this with a lot of my small game arrows, or stump shooting arrows.
