Back to the Future Build - Honda CJ360
- Thread starter Bullet
- Start date
Have at it!
That seat looks familiar! Love that someone has seen the same thing I did when I moved the rear cowl forward about a foot... BINGO!
Keep at it, it is fun for the most part :-D
That seat looks familiar! Love that someone has seen the same thing I did when I moved the rear cowl forward about a foot... BINGO!
Keep at it, it is fun for the most part :-D
I have to admit belch_brother that seat looks familiar because I spent a lot of time on your thread!
Gorgeous bike. That side graphic is killer. Icing on the cake.
I lost my garage space for the last week and a half in order to fix my moms PT cruiser.... absolutely hate that thing.
I have been focused on cleaning and polishing parts instead of going the paint route for the engine. I will throw some
pictures up when I get off work.
Gorgeous bike. That side graphic is killer. Icing on the cake.
I lost my garage space for the last week and a half in order to fix my moms PT cruiser.... absolutely hate that thing.
I have been focused on cleaning and polishing parts instead of going the paint route for the engine. I will throw some
pictures up when I get off work.
So with the lack of garage space I had to move my operation inside for a few days. Fortunately I had some parts arrive just in time. My bike was running rich and there was fuel gunk all over the carbs so I figured a good cleaning would be the place to start.
The carbs as I pulled them off
When I took the carbs appart I found one of the CV slide diaphrams was all torn up. I also found a PO must have opened them because all the hardware was mis-matched. I ordered new diaphrams from JBM industries for $19.50 USD each. Just marginally cheaper than some of the $90+ dollar oem slides w/ diaphrams I found elsewhere lol. Since bike bandit was too expensive to ship things to Canada I just got the hardware sizes from their diagrams and visited a local hardware dealer.
Replacing diaphrams:
Slide and damaged diaphram
First I made a outline on paper to ensure I would get the proper fitment and alignment with the new diaphram.I did this because the new diaphram did not have a key like the oem one. I then cut the old diaphram and the plastic retaining clip careful not to damage the slide itself.
Then I gently rolled the new diaphram onto the slide making sure the alignment was correct.
New diaphrams on slides
Cleaned carb bodies
Cleaned and reinstalled jets. Spec'ed floats.
Installed slides with new diaphrams. Attached everything with shiny new hardware.
That is it for the carbs at the moment. I know I am going to have to change the jets once I get the bike together again (I am planning on going with a more open exhaust) but this should do for now.
The carbs as I pulled them off
When I took the carbs appart I found one of the CV slide diaphrams was all torn up. I also found a PO must have opened them because all the hardware was mis-matched. I ordered new diaphrams from JBM industries for $19.50 USD each. Just marginally cheaper than some of the $90+ dollar oem slides w/ diaphrams I found elsewhere lol. Since bike bandit was too expensive to ship things to Canada I just got the hardware sizes from their diagrams and visited a local hardware dealer.
Replacing diaphrams:
Slide and damaged diaphram
First I made a outline on paper to ensure I would get the proper fitment and alignment with the new diaphram.I did this because the new diaphram did not have a key like the oem one. I then cut the old diaphram and the plastic retaining clip careful not to damage the slide itself.
Then I gently rolled the new diaphram onto the slide making sure the alignment was correct.
New diaphrams on slides
Cleaned carb bodies
Cleaned and reinstalled jets. Spec'ed floats.
Installed slides with new diaphrams. Attached everything with shiny new hardware.
That is it for the carbs at the moment. I know I am going to have to change the jets once I get the bike together again (I am planning on going with a more open exhaust) but this should do for now.
I have a new appreciation for the guys who find the time not just to work on their bike, but to show that work online by updating their thread. Especially when the weather is nice.
I did some polishing the other week on most of the metal parts I pulled off. I used 600 wet sandpaper then black, brown, white, and finally red polishing compound (For chrome I just went black then red). Some parts could have came out better. I can get a pretty good reflection but its not quite mirror finish.
I did some polishing the other week on most of the metal parts I pulled off. I used 600 wet sandpaper then black, brown, white, and finally red polishing compound (For chrome I just went black then red). Some parts could have came out better. I can get a pretty good reflection but its not quite mirror finish.
I got some goodies in the mail recently!
I got fork seals, dust caps, front, rear, and steering stem bearings, chain, petcock gasket and brakes from www.siriusconinc.com .They sell a lot of stuff on Ebay but you can order directly off their website. For Canadians they are a pretty good choice. Decent selection of parts and fair prices. The brakes were a bit pricey but buying them from sirius with combined shipping was cheaper than buying them separately some where else. Their prices on hardware was also relatively expensive. Ultimately I was very happy with the parts, total price, and shipping time and would definitly do business with them again.
I got fork seals, dust caps, front, rear, and steering stem bearings, chain, petcock gasket and brakes from www.siriusconinc.com .They sell a lot of stuff on Ebay but you can order directly off their website. For Canadians they are a pretty good choice. Decent selection of parts and fair prices. The brakes were a bit pricey but buying them from sirius with combined shipping was cheaper than buying them separately some where else. Their prices on hardware was also relatively expensive. Ultimately I was very happy with the parts, total price, and shipping time and would definitly do business with them again.
To clarify the hardware shown was from a local shop in Calgary. I just brought in all my old hardware
and upgraded to all new buttonhead fasteners. Blackfoot Industrial Fasteners. Knowledgable staff. Good prices.
I ordered the sprockets from cycle-re-cycle. I changed the gearing ratio based on this super informative discussion
between some of the 360 gurus. http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=36219.0
Big thanks to sonrier. I used his rpm to mph spreadsheet to figure out the sprocket combination that would give
me the acceleration and top end I wanted. In the end I went with a 17/34 as opposed to the stock 16/33.
In theory, running a 100/90-18 rear tire and that sprocket combination in 5th gear@10 000rpm should
get me up to 104mph!
and upgraded to all new buttonhead fasteners. Blackfoot Industrial Fasteners. Knowledgable staff. Good prices.
I ordered the sprockets from cycle-re-cycle. I changed the gearing ratio based on this super informative discussion
between some of the 360 gurus. http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=36219.0
Big thanks to sonrier. I used his rpm to mph spreadsheet to figure out the sprocket combination that would give
me the acceleration and top end I wanted. In the end I went with a 17/34 as opposed to the stock 16/33.
In theory, running a 100/90-18 rear tire and that sprocket combination in 5th gear@10 000rpm should
get me up to 104mph!
With all the parts coming in, I had a lot to keep me busy.
Changing wheel bearings:
The old front wheel bearings came out very easy. I used a drift punch to move the interior spacer and remove the bearings.
The rear bearings were much more difficult to remove. This was in large part due to the rear wheel bearing retainer.
The bearing retainer requires a special tool, a pin spanner. I improvised this tool by drilling two bolts into the retainer
and using a 3 foot pry bar for torque. This part took me a few hours to get out. what a headache.
bearing retainer. I was careful not to drill too far into the retainer as there is a rubber seal beneath it.
*Note: on 360s this is your regular right hand thread but on some honda models these are left hand thread
Changing wheel bearings:
The old front wheel bearings came out very easy. I used a drift punch to move the interior spacer and remove the bearings.
The rear bearings were much more difficult to remove. This was in large part due to the rear wheel bearing retainer.
The bearing retainer requires a special tool, a pin spanner. I improvised this tool by drilling two bolts into the retainer
and using a 3 foot pry bar for torque. This part took me a few hours to get out. what a headache.
bearing retainer. I was careful not to drill too far into the retainer as there is a rubber seal beneath it.
*Note: on 360s this is your regular right hand thread but on some honda models these are left hand thread
I pulled off the old rubber with this great video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Pfp2Z9k0n0
My local shop wouldn't order anything but basically stock tires so I started looking online for something with
a more aggressive, updated tread design. My actual rim size is 3.00-18 front and 3.50-18 rear. There
are a few options out there in metric sizes. From reviews I was leaning to either the bridgestone bt-45 or
avon roadriders. Based on fitment, price and availability I ended up going with the Avon tires.
For Canadians I found the best option for price and shipping was either Canada's Motorcycle or Royal Distributing.
Comparing total prices with shipping Canada's Motorcycle saved me an extra $10.
I sent the tires over to my local shop to mount and balance. Mostly because I don't have a stand and they put the
bearing retainer on for free.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Pfp2Z9k0n0
My local shop wouldn't order anything but basically stock tires so I started looking online for something with
a more aggressive, updated tread design. My actual rim size is 3.00-18 front and 3.50-18 rear. There
are a few options out there in metric sizes. From reviews I was leaning to either the bridgestone bt-45 or
avon roadriders. Based on fitment, price and availability I ended up going with the Avon tires.
For Canadians I found the best option for price and shipping was either Canada's Motorcycle or Royal Distributing.
Comparing total prices with shipping Canada's Motorcycle saved me an extra $10.
I sent the tires over to my local shop to mount and balance. Mostly because I don't have a stand and they put the
bearing retainer on for free.
legendary_rider
Jump in with both feet.
Bullet said:I got some goodies in the mail recently!
I got fork seals, dust caps, front, rear, and steering stem bearings, chain, petcock gasket and brakes from www.siriusconinc.com .They sell a lot of stuff on Ebay but you can order directly off their website. For Canadians they are a pretty good choice. Decent selection of parts and fair prices. The brakes were a bit pricey but buying them from sirius with combined shipping was cheaper than buying them separately some where else. Their prices on hardware was also relatively expensive. Ultimately I was very happy with the parts, total price, and shipping time and would definitly do business with them again.
+1. I'm in there almost every day on my way to work. They're awesome for advice at the parts desk. I get everything I can there.
legendary_rider
Jump in with both feet.
Damn that's a good idea drilling bolts into the retainers like that! Im having the same problem right now! I managed to order an aftermarket tool for the rear hub from "sirius" but the front one I cant find. I'm gonna go try that right now!! Thanks
I didn't know 350s had a retainer on the front too. What a pain.
Threading the retainer, screwing in bolts and torque-ing it out was O.K. .... I seen articles where people made the
tool using a piece of pvc pipe. At the time I thought that would take too long but with the amount of time I spent
inching that retainer out I should have just made the tool. Next time.
Let me know how that bolt method works out for you.
Threading the retainer, screwing in bolts and torque-ing it out was O.K. .... I seen articles where people made the
tool using a piece of pvc pipe. At the time I thought that would take too long but with the amount of time I spent
inching that retainer out I should have just made the tool. Next time.
Let me know how that bolt method works out for you.
legendary_rider
Jump in with both feet.
Actually I managed to find a socket tool for the rear!! I've got one coming in. You can use bolts on the front hub (what I'm actually having trouble with) cause they have those 4 square notches. I just dropped of my hub to a place that's gonna actually design and build a proper tool to remove it! It's gonna be like a socket that goes on a 1/2" drive rachet. He said it's gonna cost me up to 100 bucks but I've got 10 more bikes to build and I've already trashed 2 hubs!
What kind of tool did you go with? Was it something like a variable pin spanner?
http://www.otctools.com/products/variable_pin_spanner_wrench
Tools are always an investment especially when you have as many bikes as you do, thats quite the list of projects!
I am not planning to remove those retainers any time soon so I didn't bother getting the tool machined but for
you its an obvious choice.
http://www.otctools.com/products/variable_pin_spanner_wrench
Tools are always an investment especially when you have as many bikes as you do, thats quite the list of projects!
I am not planning to remove those retainers any time soon so I didn't bother getting the tool machined but for
you its an obvious choice.
legendary_rider
Jump in with both feet.
Actually they called me back and wanted $185 to make one for me! I called a different place up and asked them if I just buy a socket that goes over the hub if they can machine it down so those 4 notches fit perfectly. Said it shouldn't be a problem. Going in today to discuss with a 36mm socket that I purchased for $14. Worst case I'll buy one of those pin spanners (even though I'd like 4 pins on contact instead of 2) and drill out the 36mm socket to use as a fork seal driver.
With the basic shapes cut out I had to form the pieces to the desired shape.
I used a straight edge, "C" clamps, locking pliers and some convincing for the straight bends.
For the rear cowl I wanted to create a replica of the original so I bent the metal around
the stock cowl to mimic the shape
I used a straight edge, "C" clamps, locking pliers and some convincing for the straight bends.
For the rear cowl I wanted to create a replica of the original so I bent the metal around
the stock cowl to mimic the shape
I didn't have all the mounting figured out but I did have a few ideas.
To attach the rear cowl to the frame I would make a mounting bracket that would seat the cowl on the frame.
The mounting bracket would connect at the bum stop section of the cowl and bolt to the old passenger rail
mounts.
Template
Mounting bracket
To attach the rear cowl to the frame I would make a mounting bracket that would seat the cowl on the frame.
The mounting bracket would connect at the bum stop section of the cowl and bolt to the old passenger rail
mounts.
Template
Mounting bracket
