Ballistic battery thoughts

Tim if I've got new wiring, one of those combined rec/regs and new fuse box, relays and LED lights. Would that be a good setup for the Ballistic?

Only thing I think I need to do is run a switch for the RFID ignition as this is constantly taking power from the battery as it looks for a signal and would represent a parasitic drain.
 
What size of Ballistic or Shorai would you need to run a CB450 with Electric start? All I want on it is a Headlight (Possibly HID) LED taillight and license plate lamps and a horn.
 
The battery does not power anything when the motor is running. you are running off the alternator. The battery is a reference voltage for the voltage regulator, and a storage area to supply power to start. Once you are running, it also smooths out the voltage from the alternator a little.

A 750 Honda uses a 14 amp hour battery, my CB 360 uses a 12 amp/hr battery. However, you need to consider cold cranking amps. Between 150 to 200 CCA will give reliable starts. You can start on less, but the Honda ignition system doesn't like low voltage, and if the bike doesen't start immediately, the voltage may drop low enough on start that you will not have a spark.

Also, running less load means the alternator will generate more than you need. The battery will stay charged, but the voltage regulator will be dumping more current then usual. Hopefully you have a newer, higher capacity regulator. The regulator works by creating a load high enough to keep the alternator output voltage in the right range. If you removed all lights, the regulator may even overheat making enough load to keep the voltage within specs.
 
So if you're putting LED signals, LED tail light, upgrading the electrical components. Is there a risk you could reduce the load too much and risk damaging something?

What would the fix be? A heavier duty headlight to suck up some excess amps?
 
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