Ballistic Lithium - 8 Cell vs. 4 Cell for CB350?

[iContango]

Curious is anyone on here has experience running Ballistic batteries on their 500 or smaller bike. I am somewhat torn between buying the 8 cell or the 4 cell. I wish they had a 6 cell

I am running an h4 headlight -35w/35w, and standard front/rear turn signals. I have an upgraded Kohler reg/rec combo, Pamco ignition, and the factory stator. Think I really need the 8 cell?

Thanks.

 

[johnnyp39]

I was looking to do this with a CB450 - can you post a link on what you are looking to buy? Also did you chose to replace the ignition or do you think it is needed in order for this to work propertly? Where are you going to put the battery?

 

[BriMed1983]

iContango- Are you planing on kicking it over all the time, or useing the electric starter? Personaly would go with the 4cell and upgrade to a higher output stator to keep up with all your electronics and make sure you have a good working R/R to keep the voltage from spiking on 14V when running.

 

[iContango]

I was looking to do this with a CB450 - can you post a link on what you are looking to buy? Also did you chose to replace the ignition or do you think it is needed in order for this to work propertly? Where are you going to put the battery?

I am not sure if links are allowed to Eb@y, but just go there and type 'Ballistic Battery' - you will see the 4 cell, 8 cell, 12 cell, etc. I think the 4 cell is less than $100, and the 8 is around $135-140.

Although I havent gotten a chance to post pics (schedule has been HECTIC), I am going for a different look (flat seat, no cafe bubble, knobby tires) for my 350 and will still be using the sidecovers. That will also enable me to use the factory battery box and stuff the starter solenoid, regulator/rectifier, and battery all in there. I will just cover over the holes on the sides of the box to help protect everything.

 

[iContango]

iContango- Are you planing on kicking it over all the time, or useing the electric starter? Personaly would go with the 4cell and upgrade to a higher output stator to keep up with all your electronics and make sure you have a good working R/R to keep the voltage from spiking on 14V when running.

I will probably use the electric start most of the time. With the electronic ignition and clean carbs the damn thing fires up almost instantly. I may even remove the kickstart once I get it running perfect (then just push start if I get in a bind).

 

[Bert Jan]

Whats your concern? that the 4 cell will not hold enough punch to get er going? I can start a cb550 on a 2 amp battery with kickstarter, and as little as 6 amps turn her over electrically. I don't know how many amps the 4 cell is?

 

[Sonreir]

I don't recommend the use of any LI-ION batteries on vintage bikes without charging system modifications. The original voltage regulators are just not up to the task of keeping the voltages down.

Lithium Ion batteries will cook themselves at voltages over 15V in just a matter of hours (this translates to a month or two of normal riding) and stock regulators can allow up to 16V or so as you approach redline.

To test your charging system, measure the voltage across the existing battery terminals with the bike idling. After it is warmed up, rev the bike to 5000 or 6000 RPM. If voltage goes above 14.5 at any point, skip the LI-ION.

 

[JiveTalkinRobot]

Curious is anyone on here has experience running Ballistic batteries on their 500 or smaller bike. I am somewhat torn between buying the 8 cell or the 4 cell. I wish they had a 6 cell

I am running an h4 headlight -35w/35w, and standard front/rear turn signals. I have an upgraded Kohler reg/rec combo, Pamco ignition, and the factory stator. Think I really need the 8 cell?

Thanks.

I'm running the 4-cell on my RD and it is holding up fine

 

[Bert Jan]

I don't recommend the use of any LI-ION batteries on vintage bikes without charging system modifications. The original voltage regulators are just not up to the task of keeping the voltages down.

Lithium Ion batteries will cook themselves at voltages over 15V in just a matter of hours (this translates to a month or two of normal riding) and stock regulators can allow up to 16V or so as you approach redline.

To test your charging system, measure the voltage across the existing battery terminals with the bike idling. After it is warmed up, rev the bike to 5000 or 6000 RPM. If voltage goes above 14.5 at any point, skip the LI-ION.

good point. these questions pop up all day the last weeks and i'm having a day-job answering them all hehe. I forgot to mention the rec/reg problem with stock stuff and li-ion

 

[iContango]

Relax fellas - although you bring up a valid concern, if you actually read my post you'll notice I have upgraded to the modern Kohler regulator/rectifier combo. Ballistic batteries are also NOT LiThium Ion, they are lithium Iron (LiFePo), which are a bit more forgiving.

 

[Bert Jan]

okidoki, no problem then running the 4 cell.