Barber trip in danger - Tail light/brake light issues

Fix

Fix

With a shirt like this, who needs pants?
Murphy's law caught up to me.

I'm blowing 1157 bulbs in my tail light, and a bit later in my brake light (it's dual filament)

I checked the voltages, and they're good, but I'm getting nearly 12A readings on the two wires that go to the fixture. That's gotta be the problem. Now, I don't know how to go about figuring out WHY i'm getting 12A.
 
Is this with the bike running? At idle or revving? What are the voltage/amp readings at the battery terminals?

And what bike / electrical mods are we working with?
 
Tim said:
Is this with the bike running? At idle or revving? What are the voltage/amp readings at the battery terminals?

And what bike / electrical mods are we working with?
Click to expand...

Voltage readings across battery 12.35 up to 14.5 at 2500 RPM.
I've isolated the blue wire (tail light) straight to the ignition. I opened up the harness and disconnected every other blue wire.
I did discover I may be measuring the amperage incorrectly. I just touched the end of the disconnected blue wire with the probe, and ground with the black. Apparently, this is inaccurate, since I read that current should be measure in series with the load on the circuit. Since I don't have a good bulb (til tomorrow) to put in the circuit, my amperage measurement may be off.

The bike is a '78 XS11 with no turn signals or running lights. The only thing on the circuit is the tail/brake.

equ3T.jpg


Looks like fun, eh?
 
Fix, if you want to try an LED 1157, let me know. If you find the specs on superbrightleds I believe they are rated for slightly higher input before cooking.

Just a band aid for the real problem - hope you get it figured out!
 
Big Rich said:
Fix, if you want to try an LED 1157, let me know. If you find the specs on superbrightleds I believe they are rated for slightly higher input before cooking.

Just a band aid for the real problem - hope you get it figured out!
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Thanks, I'll keep you posted. I picked up http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/JSI0/1157R.oap?ck=Search_1157+led_-1_-1&keyword=1157+led
today, but I don't want to blow one up, so I'm grabbing some regular 1157's tomorrow morning for testing.
 
Good luck. I wish I had a tail light problem, I dont even have my jugs on my cases... Im still planning on going too!!!
 
Well just pack a bunch of extra bulbs and get a flashing red bicycle light for worst-case scenarios if you have to get it somewhere at night. A flashing red light on your back is better than nothing.

See you in Oct!
 
Tim said:
Well just pack a bunch of extra bulbs and get a flashing red bicycle light for worst-case scenarios if you have to get it somewhere at night. A flashing red light on your back is better than nothing.

See you in Oct!
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My wife recommended one of those battery run magnetic Led flashers. Hopefully it doesn't come to that. I'll be there, I'll figure something out if I can't fix this in time.
 
Could it be with such minimal lighting that your R/R is becoming overloaded? Too much unused juice turning into excess heat at the regulator?
 
Big Rich said:
Could it be with such minimal lighting that your R/R is becoming overloaded? Too much unused juice turning into excess heat at the regulator?
Click to expand...

I thought it might, but I've measured voltage across my battery terminals and not noticed any issues. Also, i'm not blowing fuses, and my speedo light isn't affected.
 
With a replacement bulb in place, I measured .5 Amps in series, which is within spec for the tail light. I havea feeling I'm looking at a run of cheap ass auto bulbs shaking themselves to death on the back of my bike.

I bought a drop-in replacement 1157 LED, which are vibration resistant, but I didn't want to run one until I made sure the electrons weren't going to assassinate it.

Now I just need to wrap my wire harness back up. Might as well eliminate all the extra wires I'm not using since it's open.
 
Fix said:
With a replacement bulb in place, I measured .5 Amps in series, which is within spec for the tail light. I havea feeling I'm looking at a run of cheap ass auto bulbs shaking themselves to death on the back of my bike.

I bought a drop-in replacement 1157 LED, which are vibration resistant, but I didn't want to run one until I made sure the electrons weren't going to assassinate it.

Now I just need to wrap my wire harness back up. Might as well eliminate all the extra wires I'm not using since it's open.
Click to expand...

I just bought a 1157 led bulb and had to return it the issue with the led is that it doesnt work as a brake light and tail light its either or..I was pretty bummed cos its really nice and and bright.hopefully they can come up wtih one that works as both
 
Re: Re: Barber trip in danger - Tail light/brake light issues

ZVT said:
I just bought a 1157 led bulb and had to return it the issue with the led is that it doesnt work as a brake light and tail light its either or..I was pretty bummed cos its really nice and and bright.hopefully they can come up wtih one that works as both
Click to expand...

They make them. Several of my bikes use them.
 
Re: Re: Barber trip in danger - Tail light/brake light issues

Kanticoy said:
They make them. Several of my bikes use them.
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You got a link whre I can get it..
 
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/JSI0/1157R.oap?ck=Search_1157+led_-1_-1&keyword=1157+led
 
Need to get a couple of these myself. The brake light on my wife's TU250X is rather dim.
 
Tim said:
Need to get a couple of these myself. The brake light on my wife's TU250X is rather dim.
Click to expand...

They're not exactly cheap, $18 for two. But they're seriously bright and have almost no power draw.
 
Bloody hell thats the same ones I got but it didnt work when I pulled/stepped on my brake seems I may have an issue...The regular 1157 works fine grrrr

Also the guy at the parts store told me that it wouldnt work as a brake and tail
 
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