I picked up a project bike some guy on craigslist gave up on. My brother picked it up for my while I was at work...the guy said it runs, and when he went to demonstrate it in front of my brother he got it running and then it promptly died and he could not get it running again.
I checked the timing and it appeared to be way off. When I went to correct it per the timing procedure (http://www.hondatwins.net/forums/attachments/5735d1277953977-honda-twin-ignition-timing-re-posted-ignition-timing-1.doc), I found all of the screws stripped. In the mean time, I tested the coils and made sure that I got spark -- I did.
Now I fixed the stripped screws, and began to time it the way Bill's document prescribed, and noticed one thing: The 12v test light, when connected to either set of points, was always on. Points open, points closed, whatever, the light was always on. I ignored it after I read briefly someone said that did not matter, I set the timing so that both gaps were in spec at the LF and F marks (it only took 2 tries!), and promptly could not start the bike.
I'm thinking it has something to do with the test light always being on. Does anyone have any input?
(Note: I checked the oil, it was good although the drain cap was frozen on; I also did a compression test and got 175psi on both...Everything appears to be in working condition. I am stumped.)
I checked the timing and it appeared to be way off. When I went to correct it per the timing procedure (http://www.hondatwins.net/forums/attachments/5735d1277953977-honda-twin-ignition-timing-re-posted-ignition-timing-1.doc), I found all of the screws stripped. In the mean time, I tested the coils and made sure that I got spark -- I did.
Now I fixed the stripped screws, and began to time it the way Bill's document prescribed, and noticed one thing: The 12v test light, when connected to either set of points, was always on. Points open, points closed, whatever, the light was always on. I ignored it after I read briefly someone said that did not matter, I set the timing so that both gaps were in spec at the LF and F marks (it only took 2 tries!), and promptly could not start the bike.
I'm thinking it has something to do with the test light always being on. Does anyone have any input?
(Note: I checked the oil, it was good although the drain cap was frozen on; I also did a compression test and got 175psi on both...Everything appears to be in working condition. I am stumped.)