Breaking Cam Chain

[Flugtechnik]

I need to break the cam chain on my '72 CL450 so I can remove the top end off the engine so I can replace a valve. I've never done this before so I don't have the tool to do it and I don't know anyone local that would. I've located the master link which has been pressed on. I tried grinding the heads off of the pins and gently trying to work the plate off but it wouldn't budge. I didn't want to screw up my cam by banging on it, or mess up the other links.

So I guess I need to buy a chain breaking tool. But I don't know what "size" the cam chain is so it is hard to find one that will fit. Most of the ones I saw say there are for 420-530 drive chains. It seems like that would be too big. It would seem to me that a bicycle chain breaker would do the job on the smaller cam chain, but I don't know. Any suggestions? I'm looking for a cheap tool here. Preferably < $20.

Thanks.

<edit>
Harbor Freight has this one for $10 but again it says it is for a 420-530 chain. It says it has a 1/8 inch diameter punch. Any idea what size my cam chain is?

 

[boomshakalaka]

z1 enterprises has a nifty cam chain breaking tool, however that thing costs nearly $100. Because of this Im pretty sure that I will have to take it to a shop, which sucks because most shops are backed up now that its summertime.

http://www.z1enterprises.com/SearchResult.aspx?All=True&KeyWords=cam%20chain%20breaker

The second one looks intriguing because it says it can rivet chains as small as cam chains all the way up to 3/4 630 chains. However it then says it will break most chains. The bold word worries me. But if it did work to break and rivet my cam chain and drive chain it might be worth the money.

edit: found the same one on ebay for half the price, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chain-Breaker-Riveting-Tool-Kit-Drive-Cam-Rivet-520-530_W0QQitemZ160344359112QQcmdZViewItem

 

[Flugtechnik]

Yeah, saw basically the same thing, but an even cheaper (cheaper quality?) version here:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Motorcycle-Cam-Drive-Chain-Breaker-Riveter-Cutter-T34_W0QQitemZ380138572106QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Automotive_Tools?hash=item588206494a&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65%3A15%7C39%3A1

Seems like the 1/8 punch in the harbor freight tool would be too big for the cam chain. The 2mm size in the other tool seems about right. Don't really want to spend that much, but I may have to.

 

[boomshakalaka]

oh, nice. I think thats our best option man. Hell it would probably cost me more to have a shop do it.

Im still a little scared to try to remove the old chain and lace the new one in, if something goes wrong I could end up needing to split the cases and that would make me sad.

 

[Skyeye]

Boom...

If it helps, I've bought from Sporting for Less off their eBay store, a nice set of vacuum gauges. I was very satisfied with the product and they shipped right away. That price sounds very reasonable, hell, I may get one for my toolbox too.

Where are you located? Someone on the board might be close enough to help out.

Scott

 

[boomshakalaka]

ha, it looks like Ill be jumping ship and paying someone to do it. I just talked to a local shop and they said theyd do it and it would at most cost an hour of labor @ $55 but hes expecting more like half an hour. He said I can bring it in, go get lunch and come back

I normally am a fan of buying a tool rather than paying someone to do it, but this is a very specific tool that Ill likely not use again for a very long time. Also like I said Im not super comfortable doing this on my own seeing as a mistake could mean having to split the cases.

 

[Flugtechnik]

I know what what you mean. Luckily I don't have to replace my chain as it is fairly new. I just need to get my top end off. Hauling my engine to a shop would also cost me a lot more in lost time at work than it would to just buy the tool. It seems like the cheap ones are basically non-branded versions of the MotionPro kit.

Anyone in the Atlanta area have a small chain breaker I could borrow? I can pay in beer.

 

[paultsmith]

MikesXS has a cam tool breaker/riverter kit for $44, and you can get free shipping.

I say buy it there, use it and either keep the kit or sell the thing on e-bay for $24, then you have only payed $20 for the job and have the satisfaction that you did all the work yourself.

Part #35-0112
http://www.mikesxs.net/products-7.html

 

[Herm21]

FWIW I have that same tool that sportingforless is selling on ebay. Actually a very nice tool for the price, and if you plan on doing more projects down the road it's well worth the money.

tip: tie of the two ends of the chain to somewhere on the motor before you disconnect it. trust me!

 

[Flugtechnik]

Thanks for the advice guys. I ordered the one from sportingforless. Hopefully this engine repair can happen soon.

 

[boomshakalaka]

bah... now I feel like a wuss. I think after hearing herm's first hand account of successfully (besides seemingly losing the cam chain down in the case) using the ebay tool I think Ill have to go ahead and buy one so I can do it myself.

 

[boomshakalaka]

all of these sets seem nearly identical (and in some cases almost certainly identical) yet some are advertised to work on cam chains and drive chains from #35 to #620, yet some warn that they should not be used on drive chains. For example the one on ebay says it can break and rivent both, yet the one on mikesxs specifically says that it is not for the drive chain. I would tend to trust mikesxs more than an ebay seller and I would also rather give my business to him, however if the ebay tool really can be used for both thats a way better deal.

 

[Flugtechnik]

One of the ebay ones notes that you will have to grind the head off of the rivets on anything larger than a 420 chain. That may be what MikeXS is referring to. Grinding the heads off would make them much easier to push out.

BTW, I would be scared about feeding the new chain through as well. Hell, I'm scared to be taking the top end off, but if I never do it, I'll never learn. F ups happen, that's why I've managed to turn a simple gasket replacement into an entire top end job.

I'll sell you my chain breaker when I'm done, if you can wait a couple months.

 

[Herm21]

I did lose the damn thing down in the case, but got lucky with a telescopic magnet to get it back out. Then tied it off real good!

To feed a new one through, just tie one end of the old chain to the new one and pull through, pretty easy really.

Also be sure to stuff any openings with rags, if you drop a link down there it may be a bitch to fish out.

As far as using it on a drive chain, I did try it, but this particular tool just is not strong enough to fully rivet the pins in place, or remove them without first grinding the heads off.

I did the same thing you're doing Flug, dove in head first. Once in there though it really was not bad. The top ends on the 450's are very simplistic. I've now done 3 of them and 2 of them I completely rebuilt with new valves etc. ...somehow they're still still running ;D Gotta get dirty to learn. Have fun with it dude!

 

[boomshakalaka]

Ive heard of the trick to tie the old chain to the new.. what do I tie it with? Im having a hard time visualizing this. Do I actually temporarily link the chains together? Or am I simply connecting them with a piece of string or wire?

 

[boomshakalaka]

MikesXS has a cam tool breaker/riverter kit for $44, and you can get free shipping.

I say buy it there, use it and either keep the kit or sell the thing on e-bay for $24, then you have only payed $20 for the job and have the satisfaction that you did all the work yourself.

Part #35-0112
http://www.mikesxs.net/products-7.html

you said you can get free shipping... care to elaborate? It seems to only be available on orders over 150$..

 

[Herm21]

Ive heard of the trick to tie the old chain to the new.. what do I tie it with? Im having a hard time visualizing this. Do I actually temporarily link the chains together? Or am I simply connecting them with a piece of string or wire?

I just used some wire going through the link holes and basically make a link to the two chains. Just be sure you fold in (or clip) any excess wire so it doesn't get snagged on the chain rollers.