Brodie's BSA: version 2 The Bsaki


Gold Coast, Queensland
Thought I would start a new thread as the old one got a bit full of crazy engine ideas and what not. So here we go.

I bought a BSA A10 frame and swing arm a few years ago, the original plan was to build a TriBSA out of it but I do not have the funds to buy a Triumph engine and BSA gearbox to suit. I could save like hell and buy them but I thought there had to be a better option.

A few years and engine ideas go past and I decided on a parallel twin with at least 50hp and a 6 speed gearbox.
After searching for some time I came across a written off Kawasaki Er5 which fitted the bill.

So the plan is to resto/mod the BSA to look like it should have come from the factory with that engine.

Instead of a TriBSA I will have a BSAki (bizarreki).
So far I have had a custom triple tree build so that I could fit GS550 forks that have ZX6 calipers and CBR1000 rotors. I am using a set of Boranni rims with stainless spokes on GS750 hubs. I have bought an original tank, toolbox and oil tank. I have test fitted the Er5 engine and everything look like it will be good to go. I will be able to adjust chain alignment with a custom sprocket carrier.



Well-Known Member
Looks good Brodie. Lots of potential there. Will you need to spread the lower frame rails to drop the motor in, or is it close enough? It may be deceptive but loos like it should be a touch taller. Maybe go with slightly longer than stock rear shocks to get a small amount of static swingarm droop and slightly steeper rake. Just doen't go overboard. If yi are getting new triples, you could cut down offset to increase trail a little which will allow you to tip it's tail up a bit.


Gold Coast, Queensland
I should get away without spreading the frame rails. Depends on where I need the counter sprocket in relation to the swing arm pivot. It is slightly above at the moment. I need to do a bit of research regarding that.

The top triple I had made up to fit a 35mm fork instead of the tapered original. I still need to drill fittings for the steering lock and bar risers. I also need to do some shaping on some of the corners. I have some GS750 fork stanchions if I need to raise the front but they are not as nice as the current set. I have already bought replacement rear shocks but am happy to swap them if need be.

Rake and trail are still somewhat of a mystery to me. I have heard of them, I know they have to do with the handling and I have see pictures, but I am yet to do any real research.

My plan is to use some of the ER5 frame to weld in a new crossmember before I cut out the old one. A keen eye would notice that this frame was already modified before I came across it. My best bet was that it was a bobber sometime in the 80s before it was pull apart. There is some extra brackets on the back bone which I assume are for coils, there is a hole in the backbone which looks like it was for front tank mounts and the rear engine mounts/front gearbox mounts have been cut off. It also has a brace with a mount welded across the front of the down tubes, my guess was an engine mount of some kind. The front seat mount has been moved back and there was what looked like a mount for a primary chain guard before I cut it off.

At the moment while I have the frame stripped I am going over all the shocking welds that have been done and fixing them up. Cleaning up some of them and removing unneeded add-ons.


Gold Coast, Queensland
Thanks guys. I am not worried about what the restoration people will think. There are enough original A10s riding around. If I can save one from the scrap heap and build the bike I want that what is it to them.

I did a test fit to try and decide where I should drill to mount the bar risers. I ended up deciding high rise clip ons are the way to go. Might not be the m bars I was planning on but it will keep with the clean look I have decided to do.

I plan to run inverse levers and minimal controls on the bars. If I don't need to use it while riding I will wire it somewhere else. I am going to run internal cable and wiring and use Irk's idea of a remote front master cylinder. Not sure what to do for the headlight yet. I am going to use one with integrated indicators and I will use bar end indicators or something flush for the rear.
I am not required to have them but I would rather have them then not.



Vmax...why,yes i think i will
looking good

for remote front m/c look for either R90S BMW or Z1R kwaka. prob got better chance with the BM but having said that i might know where there is a kwaka one. i'll do some investigation and maybe we can do a beer deal ( none of that filthy XXXX stuff though )

try these guys in melb for BM, they advertise having R90S parts wrecking now

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