budget sv650 cafe racer

gt alex

Active Member
Been bit busy but getting back to the bike. got all the fiberglass stuff last week and today got the muffler baffling to a legal level but now thinking of building a valve and a second stage in the disc assembly to releave backpress over 6000 rpm since the legal test requirement is 4500rpm
 

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gt alex

Active Member
The exhaust is sorted, still needs a tidy up
Current state
basic muffler 14" long, 4" dia, glass packed 2" core
Mod 1, twin 1'pipes with slots and holes with 2" baffle each end and stainless steel wool, inserted and welded in muffler. 107 dba 4500rpm
Mod 2 home made disc type muffler fitted with 4 discs. 93 bda 4500rpm
Mod 3 spring loaded end plate on disc pack which prevents excessive back pressure, opens 6000 rpm free reving no load.
now needs epa label on bike and muffler stamped

And today
Since I have many mods planned and want to make sure they do what I hope to day I made a braket and mounted my G tech pro RR and calibrated it. All except the weight (not sure how I'm going to weigh the bike?)
 

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wozza

Been Around the Block
to weigh the bike get a set of bathroom scales, make a ramp the same height as the scales out of wood. Roll front wheel on then the back and add up the sum total, wont be spot on but in the ball park


edit you can also go to a recycle center, garden supply (sells top soil gravel ect) and use their weigh bridge
 

gt alex

Active Member
Apparently the local council have a local weighbridge.
I previously fitted lowering dog bones to my cafe racer project but the shock I bould is 8mm shorter than standard so I put the standard dog bones back in since it will be lower anyway.
I all so took the oppertunity to measure with the rear fully dropped with the lowering links and the standard links. measuring this time it looks like 45mm difference.
Also a good chance to show my stand in use.
Now the old shock is out and scratching my head the best way the fit it as it has 12mm monting holes not 10mm. drill everythine for 12mm bolts or fit spacers in the holes.
 

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gt alex

Active Member
Today the rear shock went in, only mods required were some alloy tubing to use 10mm bolts with the shock (designed for 12mm) and the bottom fork of the shock required a longer bolt and a nut (the original used a thread in the fork) this required longer dog bone bolts and spacers on the left side.
Also I had to recess the bottom of the battery tray 5mm.

Tomorrow I will set it up and hopfully the spring rate will be in the ball park. a quick check looked promissing 20mm static sag and 55mm total before doing any adjustments.

Better than the oem 5mm static and 55mm total was the best ajustment I could get (i don't like runing less than 5mm static)

Then there's the rebound and compression rate to do.
 

gt alex

Active Member
Been test riding with new shock.
Results clear as mud.
Still think the front is compression too firm (was too soft) had gold cartridge emulators (effect compression) but didn't change the adjustment just put in 15w oil, think rebound still bit soft?
Rear was set 10 clicks of 20 on compression and 5 of 14 on rebound. thought it was great till I hit a big rut and launched my bum.
So trying to match front and back I pulled the emulators out of the forks and adjusted them 2 1/4 turns of preload (comended 2-3 for steet they had 7 turns) upon reassembly seems bit soft, maybe 20 w oil so I can bump up rebound and compression.
And at the rear I made drastic changes both rebound and compression on softest both only 1 click (still feels well damped, probably bit soft on compression)
I will see how it rides tomorrow. That will be my starting point, then I will start changing 1 thing at a time.
Roads are rubbish round here but they are twisty wish me luck.
 

gt alex

Active Member
Been a while but I have been enjoying riding a bit rather than working on the sv650.
all seemed good till the other day when my lithium ion battery arrived and after checking charge voltage with the old battery still in place (14.5v ). I decided it was all go for the the new battery, which I fitted with the spacer blocks provided.
Next morning cold started well second go with some choke. By the time I got to the street the tacho stopped working, then about a km down the road the bike stopped.
It blew the tacho, cdi, head light, and the new battery, all I can think is the rectifer regulator died taking the rest with it.
So I contacted the battery supplier who implied I had a faulty regulator all along but I think I was bad luck.
The battery supplier has offered a good deal on a replacement but I a am a bit gun shy now

What do others think try again?

I got a cdi for gumtree and ebay RR on order.
while need to wait for money for the rest hopefully nothing else blew.

In the mean time since I can't ride I have started the hump seat conversion.
 

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gt alex

Active Member
sv650 not running but looking more the part.
Painted the seat frame silver rattle can to see how it looks. what do you guys think?
Mounted the tail light and blu tacked checked paper to see how that looked from the side, and over all I think its a go, the plan is checkers down the centre of the guards and tank as well and thats it.
Nothing says cafe racer like checks.
I recieved the REG/REC today so tommorrow I will make the electrical tray mount the parts and start shortening and hiding the wiring.
 

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teazer

Over 1,000 Posts
DTT BOTM WINNER
gt alex said:
sv650 not running but looking more the part......
So it really is a genuine Cafe Racer.. :) So often that's where the project runs out of steam. I'm sure you will perervere and get it running like a goodun and will soon be rushing up and down the Great ocean Road or Putty Road or your favorite set of twisties.

The subframe looks better is sliver for sure. Not a fan of chequers though. They were popular a decade or so ago but not so much now. But that said, it's your bike and you can make it look just how you want it to look. keep on keeping on.
 

gt alex

Active Member
All running but I keep scatching the rear subframe so out of frustration I painted it black and will end up painting the whole frame black.
The electrics are all done (bar putting the fuel sender in the tank for the gauge) I will post some better pics soon but here is the latest pictures.
Any comments or thoughts are very welcome. I am finding it really hard to stand back and see it as a whole.
1119 042.jpg1119 043.jpg1119 044.jpg1119 046.jpg
 

john83

Over 1,000 Posts
I love SVs. I had one and it was a ton of fun. Cool stuff going on here.


Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
 

NoRiders

Over 1,000 Posts
Thanks I am thinking of cutting the bottom of the tank so it lines up withe the rear subframe and shows off the rear cylinder head,
What do you think cut it or leave it?
Maybe use paint to disguise the tank tail end?
Exposing the rear cylinder head could be nice, but cutting n shutting a tank takes precise welding skills to prevent holes or warping......easy goes it :)
 

pidjones

Over 1,000 Posts
Maybe use paint to disguise the tank tail end?
Exposing the rear cylinder head could be nice, but cutting n shutting a tank takes precise welding skills to prevent holes or warping......easy goes it :)
At least try the paint trick first. If that doesn't make it, you can always cut later.
 

teazer

Over 1,000 Posts
DTT BOTM WINNER
I like the idea of a smaller tank that reveals the rear head, but that's a lot of work. I have a Ducati ST3 with a similar tank design and the most common conversion is a smaller tank that does what you are suggesting. My solution is to paint the lower part of teh tank in flat black and the top half of the tank plus seat in bright cafe racer red. Visually that lifts the tank and creates that tabletop look.

On a GT750 project I did the cut and weld teh tank trick and decided to re-shape the sides and knee cutouts etc and I am still not finished. I am not bad with sheet metal - not good either - but my weld are at best semi functional, so I stitched one side together with minimal distortion, but such a PIA.

For a metal wizard like ROd Tingate that would be easy, but for us mere mortals - not so much.
 

gt alex

Active Member
I have been riding the bike and loving it I have bought a small honda tank which will be going on soon but it won't fit over the air box so a new intake comes first.
Today a lightened flywheel went on, along with a offset key to advance timing 4 deg.
Result is free revving and smother despite 1lb less flywheel ang a noticeably quieter exhaust.
 

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