Building the P38 Racer

YAY! cant wait to see whats going on!

any chance i can buy a set of those headlight ears off of you? they look great! :D
 
Hannibal Smith said:
The tubes ran $271.00 (shipped) and they are an instock item, unless they whipped a set up overnight. I received the new tubes within 4 days.

Google "Forking by Frank" (actual business name) or "Franks Forks" all roads lead to Rome there. They are lathe turned and hard-chromed, so the surface finish is a tad different from stock tubes that are absolutely smooth. Stock tubes are ground, the tubes I got were not. I have dealt with this company a long time ago, and cannot recall if the tubes were ground or not-

so this place happens to be like 4 blocks from my house!


Anyways, in the pics, the forks dont appear to be threaded on the inside, whats up with that?
 
This is my mill at this point-

Completely cleaned and prepped, then shot with Eastwood High Heat Engine Paint (Ceramic). It has that WW2 aircraft color.
 

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beautiful. what did you use to clean down the motor? media blaster? if so what media?
 
Rocan said:
beautiful. what did you use to clean down the motor? media blaster? if so what media?

Even though I have media blasting equipment, I refrained from using it on the cases. Way too many nooks and crannies, even with the most careful masking/plugging you will always get some errant beads.

I degreased the cases, then hit them with paint stripper, then degreased again about 5 times. I then scuffed the entire surface with a stainless steel brush, then degreased again. I did a final wash with acetone, then shot the paint with a conventional gun. This is a true 2-part paint, so durability will be fantastic (it had better!).
 
Hannibal Smith said:
Even though I have media blasting equipment, I refrained from using it on the cases. Way too many nooks and crannies, even with the most careful masking/plugging you will always get some errant beads.

I degreased the cases, then hit them with paint stripper, then degreased again about 5 times. I then scuffed the entire surface with a stainless steel brush, then degreased again. I did a final wash with acetone, then shot the paint with a conventional gun. This is a true 2-part paint, so durability will be fantastic (it had better!).

sounds good. if you were to blast what media would you use?

i may end up going the paint stripper route but it seems difficult to get inbetween the fins.
 
man you really do not want that type of crap to get into your media... if you clean and strip it and then want to put a surface on it 60 - 80 grit black sand or alum oxide would work
 
JRK5892 said:
man you really do not want that type of crap to get into your media... if you clean and strip it and then want to put a surface on it 60 - 80 grit black sand or alum oxide would work

so degrease and aircraft stripper is the way to go?

p.s. sorry for the thread jack hannibal
 
yes, i would go NUTS if someone put that crap in my media... unless you are not going to run it though a cabinet and use a pot blaster and do not plan on re using the media... but a good degreaser, then i powerwash it, then aircraft stripper
 
JRK5892 said:
yes, i would go NUTS if someone put that crap in my media... unless you are not going to run it though a cabinet and use a pot blaster and do not plan on re using the media... but a good degreaser, then i powerwash it, then aircraft stripper

got it =D
 
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