Joseph New York
Active Member
cxman said:if its been running with dry cams you are going to need at least another head and cams
the cam runs right on the aluminum head no oil film you have scrap
Ok wow I prob should have known that, thanks
cxman said:if its been running with dry cams you are going to need at least another head and cams
the cam runs right on the aluminum head no oil film you have scrap
I went in the shop to inspect this. It's insane, went through every lobe and they all look perfect, one had a dark scar but not even the slightest groove or score. I'm going to go through it again when I get em off.cxman said:if its been running with dry cams you are going to need at least another head and cams
the cam runs right on the aluminum head no oil film you have scrap
Glad you mention that as well, i dont think he read it when i mentioned thatcxman said:if its been running with dry cams you are going to need at least another head and cams
the cam runs right on the aluminum head no oil film you have scrap
Yes i told you last week..Joseph New York said:Ok wow I prob should have known that, thanks
Did you remove the cam caps? You need to check the bearing surfaces first. But if no blue lobes and no scored bearing surfaces, then guess what? You have oil pressure up there.Joseph New York said:I went in the shop to inspect this. It's insane, went through every lobe and they all look perfect, one had a dark scar but not even the slightest groove or score. I'm going to go through it again when I get em off.
datadavid said:Yes i told you last week..
datadavid said:Did you remove the cam caps? You need to check the bearing surfaces first. But if no blue lobes and no scored bearing surfaces, then guess what? You have oil pressure up there.
crazypj said:Pull the sump off and check the pick up isn't blocked.
If motoir has been apart and silicon sealer used, you can almost guarantee it's blocked at least one feed hole. Worst case scenario is the outer rotor of oil pump broken.
Oh, pull oil filter and check the spring and washer are in place (and the pressure release valve in bolt isn't stuck open)
The engine is about 212lbs, the shape makes it real awkward to move around and get out of frame. Couple of people have used carr engine hoists to lift it (I'm way too old and fragile to try lifting one nowadays )
crazypj said:There should be an oil gallery plug screwed into bottom of right side crankcase. you can fit a pressure gauge there and see what pressure you really have.
crazypj said:The shop who told you 4~5 psi probably looked at " A "manual and only saw that's the switch pressure. In my opinion Honda did a real dumb thing and mounted oil pressure switch on outlet side of pump so oil light goes off as soon as engine starts to turn over. (and if oil light comes on when engine is running, it's already too late to do anything)
That's why I said to check at main oil gallery. I would just get a spare gallery plug (or a short bolt that fits) and drill/tap for a banjo fitting, there isn't any need for a $300.00 gauge as a normal cheapy one will work fine (even if not 100% accurate)
The gallery plug is a 'standard' Honda thread so picking on up from crashed/destroyed motor shouldn't be too difficult
I did buy genuine Honda vacuum gauge set though - in 1978 it cost almost 3 weeks wages but still works fine today so guess the extra quality was worth it (the 'new' mechanical ones were no better than any aftermarket set ;D )
cxman said:this might do it
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/autometer-banjo-bolt-2276/10455285-p?c3ch=PLA&c3nid=10455285-P&iv_=__iv_p_1_a_810678608_g_40371513285_w_aud-296857279645la-329229809404_h_9009610_ii__d_c_v__n_g_x_pla_y_6201684_f_online_o_10455285-P_z_US_i_en_j_329229809404_s__vi__&utm_source=ACQ&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PLA&utm_content=shoppingcampaigns&gclid=COn-ja3nndQCFdY9gQod7OgDbw#fragment-4
http://www.autozone.com/fittings-and-hose-line-connectors/fuel-fitting/russell-m12-x-1-25-banjo-bolt-adapter-fitting-with-1-8-in-npt-female-port-for-use-with-russell-640910-641110-and-641120/773861_0_0
crazypj said:I think the pressure switch is a 1/8" BSP taper thread?
You should be able to rig something up for less than $50.00. Probably not a good idea to have it permanently fitted, the pressure variations can be frightening (even though it's normal running condition)
I just had to dig out manual as I've been confusing myself with the oil passages. Isn't it possible to remove the gallery plug on top right side then fit a banjo bolt there? (similar to SOHC placement although 'hidden' behind alternator cover)
If you replaced the line with an Aeroquip (or similar) stainless one you could have that Summit gauge permanently mounted.
For $25.00, can't go wrong 8)