Can you weld an extension tab to a master?

gomotomoto

Been Around the Block
Will a tack weld ruin the master? I know there's some delicate seals in there. I need to extend the mounting hole ever so...
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Don't weld on that. Cut some standoffs from pipe to move the master away from the frame and use longer bolts so it'll fit. And remember, Loc-Tite is your friend.
 
Ok. Figured that was a no no. But I can't stand the master off, not even by a little. I guess I'll have to drill thought the stamped steel and put a nut behind. I can get access to the back.


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there is no issue adding material to that as long as the weld is kept as far away from the bore as possible,go for it
completely dis-assemble the master first tho so you don't melt the seals
 
if you want to extend the upper tab vertically so that it lines up with the hole, just slot it or file it. It will be fine as long as the lower bolt is 8mm steel. We used to replace the top bolt with an aluminum one (no strength but light) on race bikes. Many bikes now use two 6mm bolts because they do not need to be that big and strong.
 
teazer said:
if you want to extend the upper tab vertically so that it lines up with the hole, just slot it or file it. It will be fine as long as the lower bolt is 8mm steel. We used to replace the top bolt with an aluminum one (no strength but light) on race bikes. Many bikes now use two 6mm bolts because they do not need to be that big and strong.
Hi Richard it might be a weird angle on the photograph but I have to take that tab On the master and extended to the right so it could reach that top mounting hole. I'm going to take the master cylinder apart and extend that tab a little bit. A couple of good tacks should do it But as you know aluminum does not tackit easily like steel I have to make it fit like a glove first


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just wet some rags and wrap around it while welding it, go slow and let it cool a little. thats the method we used when i brazed at a reefer company to protect the driers and valves.
 
Beaner242 said:
just wet some rags and wrap around it while welding it, go slow and let it cool a little. thats the method we used when i brazed at a reefer company to protect the driers and valves.

you were brazing aluminum castings?
 
like teazer suggested the lower 8mm will handle the load
you could just use a simple bracket/tab up top to stabalize it
without any welding
 
if you use a argon/helium blend for shielding gas vs just argon, the helium will help put the necessary heat to create the weld puddle quicker so as not to heat soak the whole part.
 
reds said:
if you use a argon/helium blend for shielding gas vs just argon, the helium will help put the necessary heat to create the weld puddle quicker so as not to heat soak the whole part.

it would be foolish to not pull the guts it is sooo easy to do
 
xb33bsa said:
like teazer suggested the lower 8mm will handle the load
you could just use a simple bracket/tab up top to stabalize it
without any welding

Sure seems like the most straightforward solution.
 
I didn't say not to pull the guts. I was thinking more about minimizing possible heat distortion in the cylinder. That being said, I have welded a couple masters for people who have gambled and won.
 
took the MC apart, all went well except the white collar got a a little beat up as I was a little aggressive getting it out. The part that fits inside it still is a snug fit. Is the white collar pretty much -- just a guide?

gomotomoto said:
 
gomotomoto said:
Will a tack weld ruin the master? I know there's some delicate seals in there. I need to extend the mounting hole ever so...]

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That's a pretty big tack weld!!
 
haha right? I'm going with the other master without a tab, don't want to set up the linkage to find out the cylinder was compromised. I'm going to have to figure out how to get my second master mounted without welding to it. Guess I just had to go through the exercise to learn my lesson.

Luckily, I have a second.



reds said:
That's a pretty big tack weld!!
 
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