CB175 Electrical "more magic than carbs"

[rentedshoes]

Hello all. I have been working on buttoning up my wiring for my 1971 CB 175 for quite some time. I have completely rebuilt the wiring harness as I have replaced nearly everything that it connects to. I have reached a bit of a snag and need to call on the wisdom of the forum. The question I have is a 2-parter. Thanks in advance for your help.

Background:
I began to research charging system upgrades and came across this thread:
http://www.hondatwins.net/forums/50-electrical-discussion/14014-cheap-regulator-rectifier-upgrade.html
The specific R/R mentioned in this thread was unavailable at the time but I found what I believe to be a suitable substitute here:
http://www.amazon.com/Rectifier-Regulator-P-Series-Alternators-191-1748/dp/B004QI0FCK

I purchased it and wired it up as seen here.

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I have read in the past that the charging amperage is quite small on these bike. According to the wiring diagram, the bike uses both halves of the stator only when the high-beam is on. So, I figured that I would wire the bike to use both at all times.

I began this journey with a 4 cell Ballistic battery but recently ditched it because I have decided to use the electric starter. (I just couldn't fathom trying to get the bike running using only the intermittently-functioning kicker and I am not willing to split the cases again to try get it working consistently.)

I opted to try the Shorai sealed battery that claims to be the direct replacement for the OEM battery. Seen here:
http://www.amazon.com/Shorai-Lithium-Extreme-Rate-Battery-LFX09A2-BS12/dp/B007GR5CLW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415410808&sr=8-1&keywords=SHORAI+LITHIUM+BATTERY+LFX09A2-BS12
I have plans to locate it...well...somewhere. This week, I am thinking under the motor in the belly pan. I'm not racing it, so the likelihood of the pan becoming full of fluid is slim?

So, part 1 of my question is, if the maximum allowable charging amperage on this battery is 9amps, will this R/R allow too many amps? At a glance, this R/R notes 20 amps maximum. Is this input or output? 1.A is the CB175's system capable of more than 9amps at maximum output?

Part 2 is a wiring question. I wired the R/R as mentioned in the thread I referenced above...I think. I have noticed that I have voltage across the the R/R terminals all the time regardless of Key position. So, wiring this unit. Red and Yellow go to the coils of the stator. The "other" wire goes to the battery .The unit is grounded to the frame. Should this be wired differently?

 

[Redliner]

Re: CB175 Electrical "more magic than carbs"

"Cut the red wire" "they're all red wires!" "that twisted bastard!"

Anyway, you'll want the surface that the reg/rec mounts to to be bare metal. It grounds through the unit's case.
To check, take your multimeter and set to ohmmeter function. Touch one probe to the negative cable of your battery and the other to the case of the reg/rec. Should read 0.00.

The center connector of your reg/rec connects DIRECTLY to the positive post of the battery, so even with the key off they are connected, is that the voltage you're reading?

 

[rentedshoes]

Re: CB175 Electrical "more magic than carbs"

"Cut the red wire" "they're all red wires!" "that twisted bastard!"

Anyway, you'll want the surface that the reg/rec mounts to to be bare metal. It grounds through the unit's case.
To check, take your multimeter and set to ohmmeter function. Touch one probe to the negative cable of your battery and the other to the case of the reg/rec. Should read 0.00.

The center connector of your reg/rec connects DIRECTLY to the positive post of the battery, so even with the key off they are connected, is that the voltage you're reading?

I will certainly check the impedance to the ground. It seems like this may be crucial.

Yes, the connection to the battery is not switched, which would result at electricity at the terminal. In this instance is it normal for current to pass through the unit all the time? I'm beginning to think so.

And now a stupid question. I understand that it keeps consistent voltage under "varying loads." I understand that "varying loads" likely refers to amperage draws while the system is running. So, what part of the charging system determines maximum charging amperage?

 

[Redliner]

Re: CB175 Electrical "more magic than carbs"

The R/R is always connected and yes it's normal to be able to get a voltage at the center tab and ground, but there will be no current because the diodes (or transistors) will not allow "backwards" flow. It only allows power TO the battery FROM the AC current.

If you're worried about a leak that could drain or damage your battery:

1. Disconnect the middle wire
2. Set meter to amps
3. Connect red probe to battery positive
4. Connect black lead to center tab
5. Should read 0.00amps

I'm surprised Sonrier is not in here.

 

[Sonreir]

No need for me to comment if the answers are already being provided.

That said, the measurement between the R/R and ground is resistance, not impedance. Impedance is for AC circuits, resistance is for DC.

Maximum charging voltage is determined by the regulator portion of the regulator/rectifier. And no, it shouldn't draw power with everything turned off.

Next, you're better off checking amps between the battery's negative terminal and the ground strap instead of the positive side. There are usually multiple connections coming from batt +, but only one on batt -.

Finally, on a professional note, why all the red wire? Other colors of wire usually cost the same...

 

[Redliner]

Re: CB175 Electrical "more magic than carbs"

I don't believe that. Those wires with the racing stripe fetch a good premium at the flea markets I frequent.