CB200 resurrection and caffeination

Flash, you were just joking about buffing those tubes, right? Cuz those pits will chew up any fork seals in about 1 kilometer
 
Great info in this thread. You narrate well.

I have a cb200 as well. Its not a overhaul, so no build thread BUT...

You have the cb175 drum front wheel on that bike yes? I just bought a 175 parts bike & am hoping to swap out the mechanical disk brake in favor for the drum. Is it common knowledge that the cb200 forks fit the 175 drum braking wheel & the cb200 disk setup?

If so neato!

Keep up the great build info!
 
Big R said:
Flash, you were just joking about buffing those tubes, right? Cuz those pits will chew up any fork seals in about 1 kilometer

Crikey, I know the words "Australian" and "Too many beers" often appear in the same sentence but even I wouldn't re-use a fork in that condition....

Or would I?

No, no. I'm just having a lend. Please don't take this seriously.
 
Curbcast said:
Great info in this thread. You narrate well.

Strange, when my daughter was being born, I was told to stand over there in the corner and shut the f... up.

Curbcast said:
I have a cb200 as well. Its not a overhaul, so no build thread BUT...

You have the cb175 drum front wheel on that bike yes? I just bought a 175 parts bike & am hoping to swap out the mechanical disk brake in favor for the drum. Is it common knowledge that the cb200 forks fit the 175 drum braking wheel & the cb200 disk setup?

If so neato!

Keep up the great build info!

Thanks for the kind words.

From the information I have been able to steal from the net, the complete front end of the CB175K7 is a direct swap. I guess if the head bearings are the same size, I would just swap the complete forkset including the yolks to the earlier 175's. The important parts for a disk swap are the sliders and sadly, they are not interchangeable between the 175 K7 and earlier models. The yolks are also different so it's either a complete swap or nothing.

However, I wouldn't be so quick to make the swap. I learnt many years ago that a well set up 2LS drum brake on an early 70's bike can stop every bit as well as a single disk and sometimes better. They also look really cool.
 
thompsonmx100 said:
Ah weld them up, stiffer suspension improve the performance. ;D Keep it up

Why not? I have perfectly good suspension at my elbows.

And if you ask my wife, my rear suspension is also quite adequate.
 
Just wanted to make sure. I've seen people try to use forks like that and it's a huge waste of time.

Aren't the forks from a 175 and a 200 like 1mm different? Nothing that can't be dealt with, just checking. And if you do swap them, check the steering stops - I know they can be different.

Keep it up man!
 
Oops, I forgot the steering stops but as the yolks and head bearings have the same part number, I can safely say the CB200 forkset will definitely fit the 175K7. The bottom yolk and head bearings of the earlier 175's are also the same as the CB200 but the top yolk will need replacing as it has the smaller holes for the early stanchions. All the stanchions in question are 31mm but the 175K1-6 have a step down in diameter to 17mm for the top 16mm or so.

Having said this, the early stepped-top stanchions are a completely different design inside making it necessary to swap the whole lot rather than just parts.
 
hmm, think you misunderstood. Heres what Im wondering.

I have a 75 cb200.
I also have a 1972'ish cb175 parts bike.

The 200 is bone stock. Great shape. Other then the mechanical disk.

Im trying to figure if the front forks off the cb200 will fit the cb175 front drum braking wheel. (Like you have in your picture...as far as I can see)

Wanting to ditch the mechanical disk setup for the drum brake setup. But keep the 200 stock forks etc.

Thanks
 
have you taken a stab at putting the 175 wheel in the 200 fork? assuming both bikes are complete enough to do so.
that'll tell you right away if the axle is the same, if the length is right (or more importantly, if it isnt)
with both sets, this should be pretty easy.

but then, is the mechanical disk really THAT bad? i'm going to run mine but definitely have a view to upgrade if it doesnt cut the mustard.
 
I knew I was gonna get called on it. Just havent got the bike out yet. I built a whole bike storage stand around the 200. Just figured a quick answer on here might come about. So I could maybe have more ambition on getting the bike out.

Once I find out. Ill post here. Incase someone in the world wants to know.
 
Keep us posted.

I'd be surprised if it didn't work to be honest. I've got a feeling you'll be able to drop it straight in.

Just to clarify, cb200 fork with 175 wheel right? and 200 is a mechanical disk?
just rip off the caliper.

did a quick google and they both use the same size wheels. you might want the spacer from the 175. being hondas i imagine you could use either set of bearings but if you need to order in, i'd go the 175 size.
 
Time for another update:

The forks still haven't arrived (I may have to buy some more) and I've been busy at work so this project is moving really slow. It's not really a big deal as I'm hardly using motorised two wheelers at the moment while I try to lower my blood pressure with the deadly treadly. I'm kind of hoping to sling this all back together soon as I really need to get it licensed. Just paint over the rust? You betcha!

I've also researched what I can find on the 'net for 175/200 parts interchangeability and the only thing I can say for sure is that the last year of the 175 and the first year of the 200 used the same front wheel. If anyone wants me to take some measurements of the 200 drum hub, I can post them here.
 
I might have told you before, but if you go to www.bikebandit.com you can cross reference parts pretty easily. Just find your OEM part # and plug it into the search on the top right corner, it'll bring up a list of "fits machines"
 
The best lead I ever got and I use it all the time, thanks. Sadly, the site only cross references the actual part number. The thing I have noticed is the interchangeability of parts that have different numbers. For example, the centre to centre measurement of the drum and disk forks are identical which means that if the lowers use the same diameter axle, swapping spacers etc should allow the different wheel to slot straight in.

For the sake of this discussion, I'll measure the important dimensions of my wheel and hopefully, someone here can compare them with an early 175 drum wheel. I'm in agreement with Seb, I reckon the wheels will be a direct swap. Also to be noted, both types of CB200 use the same fork. I believe the caliper bolts onto the guard mounts and the drum brake arm connection point.

  • Axle diameter - 15mm
  • Distance between the outside of the wheel bearings - 62.5mm
  • Total distance outside of bearings plus spacer for brake panel - 94.5mm

Outer seals have not been included in these measurements.
 
If I remember, I can measure it tomorrow when I get up. But just in case, there's some info about the front end swaps on www.batemansracing.com and www.groupwracing.com
 
An update at last:


  • The replacement forks I had ordered went missing in the mail so I’ve ordered some more. This time they’re from a CM185 and should fit with a little massaging. It’s surprisingly difficult to source good second-hand units in Oz but if you look long enough, you’ll find something that fits.
  • I finally got around to taking the engine into work. After removing the head, there appeared to be a rather large amount of debris on each piston top but it turned out that only one was seized. No amount of penetrant would flow past the rings so I figured this was going to get ugly later on when I applied the heavy tools. However, when I wasn’t looking, somebody applied a judicious amount of heat to the problem area and the whole lot came apart easily. A quick hone has the barrels looking like new and the pistons look okay. Time to hit the ‘bay for a set of rings.
  • It’s been a bit quiet at work lately so I’m under a bit of pressure to take the frame and tank in to be painted. It appears that several family members and workmates want to get their licenses and this bike being less than 250cc, will be perfect although I might have to retain the crash bars until they’re done. This is fast becoming a community project.
  • I have bought some shiny bits for the bike but they will be fitted after everyone has finished playing with it. I’m still up in the air about the tank and which one to use. The 200 tank is just plain ugly but every other tank I’ve sat on the frame looks too big. Maybe a the 175 tank is my only option?
 
The forks have arrived. There are a few issues but nothing that can't be worked around:

  • The chrome is chipped between the triples but the sliding part appears in very good condition. Some should be hidden by the headlight mount and the rest when the slider is shortened.
  • The TS185 forks don't come with protection but I like the bare look. It gives them a 'lean' look.
  • There is a small block at the bottom of the left fork leg that normally braces the drum brake hub. It looks like it will need removing but we'll see if it interferes first.
  • They are around 7cm too long. The normal chop and swap with the spring to lower the stanchion can't work here as I would lose around 75% of the fork travel. What I plan to do is chase the thread further down the tube, shorten the tube the required amount and use a shorter spring. The spring from the 200 might be suitable or I can always chop the 185 spring and end up with a stiffer front end.

Things are starting to happen now.
 
  • Flash said:
    • I have bought some shiny bits for the bike but they will be fitted after everyone has finished playing with it. I’m still up in the air about the tank and which one to use. The 200 tank is just plain ugly but every other tank I’ve sat on the frame looks too big. Maybe a the 175 tank is my only option?

    I have an NOS CB175 K3 tank if you're interested...PM Me.
 
Flash said:
First up: Experience has shown that the best way to commence any restoration is to get the rolling chassis together asap. Once you can see wheels on the thing, you'll be able to see the light at the end of the tunnel. Until then, it just looks like a pile of parts in the shed that can be easily forgotten.

Never was a truer word spoken.

We got busy at work, a couple of home projects got in the way and this pile of parts was dumped into a crate, placed on a pallet and stored in the very top corner of the pallet racking. Not before the top end was overhauled though: New pistons, rings, and a top end gasket kit was fitted before all the moving parts were oiled and covered with rags. That was when the first excavator rolled in for a fit-up and personal projects fell by the wayside.

The old computer died and a new one appeared. Sadly all my old favourites didn't come along for the ride and DTT was forgotten along with the dismembered red-headed 200. Someone at work mentioned it once but I pretended not to know what was up in the corner and couldn't be bothered starting up the forklift to have a look. Some things are better forgotten. I spent a fair bit of time rebuilding and revalving the forks on my 900SS and wasted a whole lot more on an Italjet D180 which just doesn't want to go any more but both of those are licensed and should be on the road. Not having a car any more sort of encourages you to pull your finger out if you don't want to be walking to work. Overall though, things were going well. The Duke handles way better, a busy workplace ensures I'm still in a job, and 'er indoors makes sure I eat like a king. Life was ticking over nicely, thank you very much. Then I spotted the ginger vulture that's trying to ruin our country on the TV a few nights back and was reminded of the hideous evidence still laying in that crate.


I knew I should have bricked it up behind a wall.


So, looking forward to a reasonable tax refund this year, I've decided to resurrect this thread. Let it be known, the red headed stepchild will live again!
 
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