CB200 "Silver Bullet" Has No Spark

904cafe

904cafe

Been Around the Block
Hey guys. So I went to crank up the bike this weekend and all it will do is turn over, no spark. Let me go ahead and say I HATE electrical. I'm guessing ( and I emphasize "guessing" ) that if it's cranking and I'm not getting spark to the plugs it's more than likely my coils? How do I test to make sure it is indeed my coils? I do have a volt meter but I have no idea what setting to put it on or what reading im looking for. Are there any other possible mishaps? (checked all the coils connections, haha) I can build the motor just fine but when it comes down to the wires I gave my bike the big middle finger yesterday.

On the same note... if it is the coil. I wanna go DYNA, but I'm clueless as to which one will work. I saw the new Miniature Series has a dual output, single fire, 3 ohm. Will that work or what should I go with?

http://www.orientexpress.com/product_info.php?products_id=2857&utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=gb
yay or nay?

THANKS!
 
If that's not it, step by step through the ignition system. Maybe check your points gap. Air, fuel, and spark is all she needs to go.

Troy
 
I checked points gap, it's dead on. Spark plugs are brand new, battery charged. Clueless. As stated, I hate electrical. When money permits I may be switching to electronic ign.
 
I had a problem with my kill switch. The contacts had gotten fucked up and the coils weren't running because of it. Might be a simple thing to check before you go buying parts.
 
colpumpkinnuts said:
I had a problem with my kill switch. The contacts had gotten fucked up and the coils weren't running because of it. Might be a simple thing to check before you go buying parts.
Click to expand...

10-4... I'll have a look today at all my controls and switches. How do I really check something like that though (with the volt meter that is)? I can look for loose / broken wires all day. I gotta figure out how to use that thing at some point. Doesn't the negative/ground from the coil run up to the controls/switch? More searching tonight when I get off, but if anyone has another idea until then let me know. I'll gather as many possibilities before my search. Thanks guys!!!
 
From what I understand the kill switch acts as a ground, it basicly shorts out the power going to the coils. I may be very wrong about this. I suck with electrical stuff myself. I would say that the easiest way to test the switch would be to just take it apart, then it can't ground out. Make sure none of the wires are broken and that the terminals aren't touching, etc. Then check for spark. I'm not an expert on using volt meters. I usually just use them to check for continuity. To do this just put it on an ohm setting (it will have symbol that looks like a horseshoe). You can check to see if you have the right setting by touching the probes together, the indicator will top out if its analog or it will say "short" if it's digital. You can then use this mode to look for broken wires, see if stuff is grounded, etc. Someone let me know if I'm wrong about any of this stuff, I'm not an electrical guru.
 
According to the Chilton wiring diagram, The power to the coils goes through the kill switch.  In either off position, the circuit is open, no power to the coils.  In the run position, it closes the circuit, power to the coils.  I would try to test it without taking it apart.  It has little pieces that are easily lost.  Set your multimeter to the DCV range for DC volts.  Set it to the 20 V range or higher.  200V is ok.  Turn the bike on (not running) and put the red lead on the coils where the black/white wire goes in.  Then touch the black lead to a suitable ground (ie. frame, engine, etc.)  It should read around 12v with the kill switch set to RUN.  That will tell you if you are getting power to the coils.  It should read 0 with the kill switch set to OFF. If you should get a reading and you are not, make sure the leads are making good contact with metal and you have a suitable ground. It would suck to fix something that wasn't really broken. If you aren't sure you have a good grounded spot, you can always touch the black lead to the neg terminal on the battery.

You can also use the multimeter to just check kill switch.  Turn the multimeter to the setting that beeps and shows zero when you touch the leads together.  This is the continuity setting.  It beeps when you have a closed electrical path.  Using the schematic, find the wire that goes to the kill switch and the one that comes from the kill switch.  Touch the red lead to one and the black to the other.  It should beep when the switch is in the RUN position, but not in the OFF position.

http://www.oldmanhonda.com/MC/WiringDiagrams/MCwiring.php#class
 
colpumpkinnuts said:
The CB200 has a different kill switch setup than my bike. Sorry 904.
Click to expand...

Hey no problem. I'll give her a shot tonight. I just can't see why the wires would crap on me all the sudden. Something tells me this coil is long past due. I'll update. If the coil is the problem I have my eye on the Dyna already. All in all it may be a good idea to replace anyways, I'm sure my 30yr old wires are getting brittle also. Thanks guys!
 
Well I busted out the reader when I got home and sure enough the black/white wire coming from the kill switch is sending power when on. It's doing its job so I guess the coil isn't. I already ordered a Dyna anyways but it sucks because its about a week out. But I got a good deal so I can't complain too much.

Havn't bought wires though yet... anybody have recomendations???

.
 
bump...

anyone on the wires? i have no clue what to go with. i got the dyna coil on the way and i'd like to have wires show up about the same time. thanks guys!
 
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