CB360 barn find (actually pulled from a barn)

cyglide

Active Member
Hoping to have the frame back in the next couple weeks so I'm starting to order parts so that I can have a roller by St. Paddys day. I have started tear down and cleaning on the wheels and hubs. Most of the spokes are in pretty good condition, a few are rusty but it looks like it's mostly just surface rust. I hoping that I can clean them up with a wire wheel. I really don't want to have to order new spokes as it looks like they are fairly expensive. I will be ordering tires, rim strips, tubs, and an upper tripple clamp and that should be enough to get me to a roler. Oh and handlebars. I think I saw someone say that the stock handlebar mounts won't work with the DCC billet clamp, so does anyone know what kind of clamps to use?

Also, does anyone know if these are the correct swing arm bushings for a 74 CB360?

The listing say 1974 CL360, but not CB. I assume they are the same?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CB-250-360-400-500-550-750-Four-swingarm-bronze-bushing-set-bearing-new-/282075118558?hash=item41acfcbbde:m:mG0QhF_iJosILFRIK_jobWw&vxp=mtr
 

cyglide

Active Member
So I'll be picking up the frame from powder coat tomorrow, took a little longer than expected.

I pulled the wheels apart so I could start cleaning the hubs, spokes, and rims. I cleaned most of the rust off of the spokes with a wire wheel in my drill press , then put them in the ultrasonic cleaner with vinegar... Turns out that probably wasn't the best option as they all flash rusted pretty quickly after, and a few of them look like they oxidized pretty bad and turned black. I also did the nipples and the little washers for the nipples, and that knocked off most of the rust off the nipples, then I finished cleaning them up on the wire wheel. The little washers flash rusted pretty badly, so I think I'm going to end up having to just buy a spoke kit and will leave them polished, and paint the hub and rim black. I also somehow managed to lose about 5 of the washers some how. My guess is that they got stuck to the rim, then when I was cleaning the rust from the inside of the rim with the wire wheel they got kicked off. Double sucks.

Anyone have advice on the best affordable spokes? I don't really want to spend $100 on spokes for each wheel.
 

cyglide

Active Member
Got the frame and swingarm back from powder coat.

pC9uV4t.jpg


I also was able to find an original top triple tree, so I will be cleaning it up along with the bottom, repainting, and installing with new All Balls bearings.

My spokes showed up on Friday, and I have new brake shoes ready to be installed, so paint and reassembly of the wheels can commence. I still need to order tires, and I haven't decided what to go with yet. I am looking for a fairly aggressive dual sport tire. I plan on mainly running gravel and dirt roads with this bike.

After that, I will clean and disassemble the forks, put in new fluid and seals, and I will hopefully have a rolling chassis by the end of the month.

The worst part of this project is all the cleaning. The motor had 30 years of mud and crud caked on it which isn't coming off easily, the hubs were the same way, and so is everything else. I need to look at finding a way to soda blast or something my self.
 

cyglide

Active Member
So this build is going to be put on hold for a few months. We bought a new house and I don't want to have parts all over the place during the move so it will be getting packed up in rubbermaids for safe keeping. Thats the bad news. The good news is that the new house has a 24x24 heated shop, and a 24x24 attached garage. Hooray for not having to play musical cars/bikes everytime I want to pull a different vehicle in to work on it. The guy that currently owns the place has a 2 post lift in the shop but unfortunately wouldn't negotiate to leave it behind.
 

cyglide

Active Member
Small Update.

Rims and triple trees are being blasted and powder coated. Hopefully have them back this weekend. In the mean time my new tires came in. Not exactly what I wanted but they were the only dual sport tire I could find that would fit the stock rim.

Pt0WOzc.jpg


Hubs are in process of being painted. Actually don't look to bad. The reason I didn't get these powder coated was I didn't want to mess with the sprocket bushings and I didn't want to chance putting them through the heat. I primed the hubs, then painted with black appliance epoxy. Hopefully they will hold up well. I have new spokes that are zinc plated (didn't want to pay for stainless), so I think with the black hubs and black rims it will look pretty good.

FSKUWoo.jpg


Putting the swingarm bushing's in tonight and will hopefully have it mounted to the frame tonight. I already have my new neck bearings from all balls, so as soon as I get my trees back I can assemble that. I need to clean and disassemble the forks, replace seals, paint, and then will install. Hoping to have a roller before we move in June, but I've never laced wheels before and I'm hoping that won't take me forever.
 

cyglide

Active Member
I'm wanting to run 1 1/8th" MX bars on this bike. Does anyone know if universal bar clamps will work with the stock tripple clamp and the stock rubber bushings? I don't want to run adapters, so I'm hoping to use Pro Tapers clamps. http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/13717/i/pro-taper-rubber-mount-kit

Any input would be appreciated!
 

irk miller

You've been mostly-dead all day.
DTT BOTM WINNER
Why not just use the 7/8" Pro Tapers? Not sure you'll need to go through all that just to run fat bars.
 

cyglide

Active Member
irk miller said:
Why not just use the 7/8" Pro Tapers? Not sure you'll need to go through all that just to run fat bars.

Don't really have a good answer. I just like the look of mx bars with out a cross bar on them, and I think 7/8" bars with no cross bar would have to much flex in them. I know I could buy the adapters and use the stock bar mounts with the adapter mounted to those, but I think that would look funky.
 

irk miller

You've been mostly-dead all day.
DTT BOTM WINNER
cyglide said:
Don't really have a good answer. I just like the look of mx bars with out a cross bar on them, and I think 7/8" bars with no cross bar would have to much flex in them. I know I could buy the adapters and use the stock bar mounts with the adapter mounted to those, but I think that would look funky.
Not all mx bars with cross bars are fat bars. None of mine are fat bars. Two sets are Pro Taper SE http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?action=post;quote=869186;topic=72584.45 and I have two sets of Renthal https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/renthal-handlebars-78 . You can get better prices than the Revzilla prices. Fatbars and Twinwalls are specific styles for their brands. Also, you can get different bar angles too, so you can go shorter or taller. You can run those without the crossbar or get their street bars... https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/renthal-street-handlebars-78
 

irk miller

You've been mostly-dead all day.
DTT BOTM WINNER
I just figured out what's going on. It's Pro Taper that only runs the 1 1/8" on the EVO bars without the cross member. They sell a big bore riser. These should work... http://www.protaper.com/product/23/big-bore-risers/raw
 

cyglide

Active Member
Thanks for the links man! I like those renthal street bars. That may be what I go with.... Those big bore risers are a little cost prohibitive.
 

cyglide

Active Member
Got the rear wheel almost all laced up. The spokes I ordered from 4into1 had one extra inner spoke, and one to few outer spoke. I got the wheel almost all laced up, thought I had accidentally used an outer as an inner, so I took it all apart, resorted the spokes, and put it all back together only to see that I was still off. I should have counted the individual spokes to make sure there were 18 of each. I'm sending a message to 4into1 tonight and hopefully they will make it right. I ordered the spokes a few months ago so we will see. I'm really hoping I wont have to take it all apart again.

Edit: 4into1 took care of the issue and is sending me the spare spoke today. Gotta love good customer service.

D7Xyp8N.jpg
 

cyglide

Active Member
So after about a 9 month hiatus this project is back on track. Wife and I bought a new house and did some remodeling to it, then hunting season came along, and basically I haven't had much time to work on it. The good news is that the new house has a 24x24 detached shop that is heated and everything so I'm happy with that.

I just installed the new all balls neck bearings, installed my freshly powdercoated trees, finished truing the rear wheel, and have painted the front hub and laced the front wheel up for the most part. For whatever reason this rim is fighting me pretty hard so I have taken a day break and will go back at it tonight. I just got my fork lowers back from powder coat as well so I will be reassembling the front end over the new days. I'll get some pictures up when I can.
 

cyglide

Active Member
Update. We have roller and it looks like a motorcycle again. Almost. I broke into the top end of the engine because I figured I would inspect the cam journals before I put the motor back in the bike. The valve cover looks good, and the cam it's self looks pretty good. Is there a good write up anywhere on how to pull the cam to inspect the journals in the head? I did some searching and I assume the biggest thing is marking where it is currently and keeping the chain tight so it doesn't fall off the crank. Any other input before I pull it out? I would like to do it as simply as possibly. Here's a few pictures from the last month or so as I started to pick up steam on this project again. I had to order a new rear axle and got that installed last night. (somewhere in the past someone stripped the threads on it and rethreaded it for a different nut partially, and used a bunch of washers to take up the rest of the slack.

Vm3kV2b.jpg


ZNgF6RN.jpg


ehrTOST.jpg


XipqulN.jpg


DS8WqqP.jpg


JgSZQZl.jpg
 

adventurco

Nick Ol' Eye
DTT BOTM WINNER
Rockers and journals look really good. I wouldn't even bother pulling the cam out unless you want to learn how to do it.

If so, the shop manual gives you the breakdown procedure. Its quite simple, you need to unbolt the sprocket to get the cam chain off and pull the cam out. Be sure to stuff a rag down the cam chain hole so you don't lose the bolts. I use a coat hanger or piece of steel wire to tie around the cam chain to hang it.

Mostly, what you need to worry about is the cam alignment when reassembling, which is also detailed in the manual. I have a good pic of everything lined up in my thread i'll try to dig up.

Edit: heres the page from from my thread where I go into it: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=63294.70
And pics:
b4ac5f93a388699f4341a7b01a7bac39.jpg


Basically, with the rotor at LT on the #1 cylinder (sitting on the bike, the left) you need to make sure the marks on the sprocket are aligned with the case, perfectly horizontal.
 

cyglide

Active Member
Thanks for the input ADV. I wasn't sure if just looking at the journals in the valve cover and the bearings would be indicative of the condition of the journals in the head. I probably won't putt it apart then. I think this motor has been pulled apart before. The acorn looking nuts in the head definitely have some marks on them from where they have been wrenched on. I guess I'm not sure if that would have been done for the recall or not. The motor has both punch marks on the vin.

Is Three Bond or Hondabond the right stuff for the valve cover going back on?
 

adventurco

Nick Ol' Eye
DTT BOTM WINNER
cyglide said:
Thanks for the input ADV. I wasn't sure if just looking at the journals in the valve cover and the bearings would be indicative of the condition of the journals in the head. I probably won't putt it apart then. I think this motor has been pulled apart before. The acorn looking nuts in the head definitely have some marks on them from where they have been wrenched on. I guess I'm not sure if that would have been done for the recall or not. The motor has both punch marks on the vin.

Is Three Bond or Hondabond the right stuff for the valve cover going back on?

Its all basically the same stuff. I've used Hondabond and Yamabond before with good results. Clean the metal with alcohol or acetone. I spread it on very thin with a finger (wearing gloves of course). You want to go as thin as possible while still getting full coverage.

For rocker covers I'll generally spread the sealant on the head-side, and then use one or two bolts as a guide to drop the cover on.
 

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