CB360 project Daily Commuter!!!

Run a clogged filter. It may make the engine run a little worse, but with no filter at all it doesn't take much to destroy a piston.
 
You did check speedo cable is turning?
It's pretty common for water to get in and rust the lower end solid then break 'something' ;)
Should be good for at least 80mph pretty reliably, needs work to cruise any faster
 
I have not checked the cable yet, but definitely will! And 80 is just fine for this bike. I manages to get up to about 7000 rpm on the ride home yesterday and started to get a slight wobble.. dont really want to fo faster til I sort that out
 
Check 'the usual suspects' steering bearings, swing arm bearings, F&R wheel balance, wheel bearings
 
Thats my plan for this weekend! Right of the bat I noticed the rear wheel is slightly out of whack.. I plan on taking em to my friend at the local bike shop to be trued and balanced. Stay tuned! She's just gettin started.
 
Got my new filters togehter and on the bike! Oiled em up with some K&N oil I had around. Runs a lot smoother now for sure. Now the stumble/bog is back, this time from 4500-5000rpm. I'd like to start looking into rejetting my carbs. I have not done a plug chop yet since I haven't wired my kill switch up yet, but that is my goal for tomorrow.

crazypj, I sent you a PM on the subject as well. You are the man, as I understand it!
 
Heres my filters.. not the prettiest, but they do the job, hopefully.
 

Attachments

  • 20140921_112627.jpg
    20140921_112627.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 283
They should work fine as long as you didn't over oil them. What colour was the foam before oiling?
 
Foam was a very light gray before oiling. I pulled em out to inspect, they are pretty saturated. I'll squeeze some of the oil out like you mentioned and see how it goes. I'm off to work right now, so I'll report back this evening. Thanks again, sir!!
 
Good to know! I've spent the better part of the evening trying to wire up my stock kill switch now... The previous owner had wired it to bypass the switch. opened up the harness wrap they used and found the black/white wire from the coils going into a four way connector. The connector has a black wire hard wired to it, and a black/red, brown/blue and the black/white plugged into it (fourth plug is empty). This connection is hot, not ground. The black/white, black/red, blue/white, green/white, and white/green wires coming from the right hand control have all been cut. Yellow/red and black wires are still in tact for the starter.

It is my understanding that the black/white wire from the switch should be connected to the black/white wire from the coils, but when I connect them I get nothing, as if the switch was in the "off" position. If I start the bike, with all wires connected as I found them, I can kill the bike by disconnecting the black/white wire. I'm wondering, first and foremost: is the way my bike is wired is incorrect in a way that is bad for the bike? and secondly, could I wire in a toggle between the black/white wire and the four way connector as a temporary kill switch so I can do a plug chop? My third option is to have the neighbor kid ride with me and turn the key off when I give the word... and that seems dangerous.
 
Did some plug chops today. I just turned the key off and reached for the clutch fast so maybe the the most accurate, but im a pretty fast draw. This is what I got. Lighter plug is right cylinder. Its not white-white, more of a very light off white. The other plug is brownish grey. Im thinking im running rich on the left side?? Both plugs have ashy deposit on the tip of the threads.
 

Attachments

  • 20140925_190252.jpg
    20140925_190252.jpg
    846.8 KB · Views: 239
  • 20140925_190307.jpg
    20140925_190307.jpg
    801.1 KB · Views: 238
Plugs look a lot better that colour, maybe slightly warm. What grade are you using, B8ES?
 
I'll go look here in a bit. They are whatever stock replacement is from Napa; they are Autolite. I am going to put my new points in today also since they're just sitting on the shelf anyways. I also plan to put a timing light on it. I don't know how much of a mess it makes having the gen cover off, so might go out in the yard to do that... my guess is it probably wont be messier than setting valves on an old Chevy!
 
They are not a direct replacement which is why they look a bit 'warm'
The ground electrode isn't conducting heat away fast enough
Get some NGK B8ES and try again
Put a wood block under left side of stand so bike leans to the right, stops some of the oil falling out
 
Well, not the first time the books have been wrong... The old motorcycle book at napa only lists this Autolite and the Champion equivalent, no NGK. I'll see if they have some on the shelf or order some tomorrow and see how that helps.

As for timing, I tried to use my light on it, but the insulation is too thick for the inductive pickup to vet anything... I have an old school light at my shop I'll grab Monday. Its the kind with the spring that clips in between the spark plug and the socket.
 
Just looked in my buddy's spark plug book (he's a counterman at the local parts store).. Autolite 4054 is listed as a replacement for NGK B8ES... I'm still going to grab some of those NGKs anyways, sometimes the book gets the heat range wrong or lists things incorrectly. I fought this with one of my old cars for a while... my service manual recommended an AC46, Champion J8, or Autolite A5. Well an AC46 crosses to an Autolite A9 and a Champion J11, the J8 crosses to an AC45, and so on... the system ain't perfect, I guess ::)
 
Generally it's close enough for average rider/driver.
Being watercooled, cars are more tolerant if range is slightly out
This is an old chart, you should be on the 'lighter' side with modern fuels
Plugcolours.jpg

I can't find the picture of the ground strap showing how it should look with correct heat range plug
 
Found it ;D
Spark_Plug_Readings_Proper_HeatRange2.jpg


Surprisingly, it will give a definite line when it's running right with correct heat range
 
Back
Top Bottom