CB360 Rebuild 2.0

cb360j

Member
Maybe some of you have seen my crap build of this CB360.. Well I have polished the turd in almost only a weeks time per my goal.
I wanted to repaint the frame, put in new battery boxes and clean up the wiring harness. Install new handlebars and get new switch controls.
It all basically looks the same, but here is my junk for everyone's critique.

Attached in the "Before" photo.

P.s. I still have some questions about turning carbs so thank you for any help.
 

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cb360j

Member
And this the progress photos in about 3 days time before i got lazy. I still need to finished the wiring, put the carbs and exhaust on to get everything tuned but its almost there.
 

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cb360j

Member
The new taller handlebars are so much more comfortable, I should have never done those stupid low drag bars. Oh, and most of my welds are trash, some I am a little proud of. Anyone have any recommendations how to better weld giant gaps like the ones I had between the rear battery box and the frame?
 

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cb360j

Member
Ok, slightly crazy idea on how to make a crossover tube without the stock airboxes on a cb360.

Something like this ( https://www.intakehoses.com/black-rubber-intake-tee-3-id.html ) coming off of each carb, middle part of T pointing towards each other and connected.

Then put pod filters at the end of that. Picture an H pipe for car exhaust systems.
Does this sound like a stupid idea?
 
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cb360j

Member
I’m not getting any spark, and I’m wondering it is my fault.

I fried some of the wires for my switches that I bought from sparck Moto. So I went in and replaced them. When Matt originally sent the switch to me the kill switch worked backwards.
so when I was replacing the wires, I swapped the wires for the kill switch thinking this might go ahead and fix that problem as well.
Now I’m not getting spark.
Another reason is maybe I’m not grounded well enough? But all lights work, electric start works. So I’m not sure how to check if it could be better grounded.

thank y’all for the help
 

trek97

No Custom Title
DTT BOTM WINNER
Download Official Honda workshop manual. It has the wiring schematic you need.
A kill switch is open in the kill position and made in the run position. No idea how it could work backwards and swapping the 2 wires won’t change anything.
 

cb360j

Member
This is how the kill switch is currently wired. When Matt sent it, it was wired the exact opposite of this where when in “off” you could start the bike, and when in “run” it would not start. So I swapped the wires to this, thinking it would just swap that. Im thinking I was wrong in my assumption. (Two position switch not like the original switches)
 

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ridesolo

You only bear responsibility for your own actions
When I decided to use a K&S switch on my CL378 build I discovered the same thing. The kill switch on the K&S is a "normally closed" rather than a "normally open" switch. If I had wired it up I would have to hold in on the kill switch all the time in order to get it to run, a bit like a "dead man" switch. Probably could have messed and messed to figure out something to make it work but just decided to do w/o a kill switch. I guess I could have used the horn button, it's normally open, but then no hooter. Decisions, decisions!
 

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