After having gone through the carbs again last night I tested each individually. Both sides will kick over and run for a few seconds (have to put the bike on choke the get it to start), the right side still seems to run stronger than the left. Take choke off, bike revs up evens out for a second or so and dies. This is on ONE carburetor.
Cb360 running on one cylinder
- Thread starter MacGyver
- Start date
Huh? Why are you testing one carburetor on the bike? That doesn't make any sense..unless I'm not understanding what you're doing. If you're concerned about the cylinders being different then you need to do a compression test. You can do it while you have the carbs off.
There are only a few things this could be, so start with the ignition and rule that out. What I would do is once you know the ignition system is good, go through and do the 4 steps for periodic maintenance. Adjust the cam chain, check the tappets, set the timing and then sync the carbs. Once its running on both set the timing with the light. If its not fixed by then you have something else going on.
There are only a few things this could be, so start with the ignition and rule that out. What I would do is once you know the ignition system is good, go through and do the 4 steps for periodic maintenance. Adjust the cam chain, check the tappets, set the timing and then sync the carbs. Once its running on both set the timing with the light. If its not fixed by then you have something else going on.
My air/fuel adjusting screws have tabs on them and can only be turned one revolution in either direction. Have no clue what to set them at, everything I find is telling me to put them at 1 1/2-2 turns out but I can’t turn them that far.
Waiting on parts and sync kit to come in. Work keeping me busy haven’t had time to mess with it much. Goin to work on cam chain, valves, and timing when I get the chance. Don’t know when that will be though.
Waiting on parts and sync kit to come in. Work keeping me busy haven’t had time to mess with it much. Goin to work on cam chain, valves, and timing when I get the chance. Don’t know when that will be though.
The black plastic caps simply pry off.
I would turn the needles out and inspect just to ensure a PO hasn't already broke them off, and they have the springs installed.
Then you can screw them all the way in...lightly. (the tips of the adjustment needle can break off if overtightnend)
Then turn them out. (richer). I would start w at least 2 full turns from bottom.
Park it on center stand. Put a box fan blowing on the engine. Start it up and let it warm up 10 minutes or so. Or ride it.
Then with it parked on center stand and engine idling as close to 1200rpm as you can get - dial them in OR out for fastest idle.
follow procedure in the Official Honda workshop manual.
Once done you can replace the plastic caps if you like.
If adjusting A/F mix doesn't make a difference in idle speed...The Pilot/Air-fuel circuits are clogged and need cleaned.
They won't necessarily end up exactly the same. If one filter is dirtier or dryer or has more oil in it than the other, etc, etc,etc.
These things can effect air flow differences.
Also, while it's idling. Check battery voltage.
I would turn the needles out and inspect just to ensure a PO hasn't already broke them off, and they have the springs installed.
Then you can screw them all the way in...lightly. (the tips of the adjustment needle can break off if overtightnend)
Then turn them out. (richer). I would start w at least 2 full turns from bottom.
Park it on center stand. Put a box fan blowing on the engine. Start it up and let it warm up 10 minutes or so. Or ride it.
Then with it parked on center stand and engine idling as close to 1200rpm as you can get - dial them in OR out for fastest idle.
follow procedure in the Official Honda workshop manual.
Once done you can replace the plastic caps if you like.
If adjusting A/F mix doesn't make a difference in idle speed...The Pilot/Air-fuel circuits are clogged and need cleaned.
They won't necessarily end up exactly the same. If one filter is dirtier or dryer or has more oil in it than the other, etc, etc,etc.
These things can effect air flow differences.
Also, while it's idling. Check battery voltage.
MacGyver said:
The A/F Screw is Brass. its hard to tell from the angle but I'm 99% sure you just posted a photo of the screw the plug the vacuum ports for syncing the carbs. Which by the way should have a crush washer between them and the carb body.
raptormeat
Been Around the Block
make sure you left coil is grounded as well as ur right one? pretty sure the mounting bolts are ground.
