CB360 - working on it on the weekends

If you didn't stake the new on it should unscrew real easy without special tool
Staking deforms the tread to prevent things backing off due to vibration/rotation
 
By staking do you mean just taking a metal punch and punching the four points down? The only way I was able to get it out was with a chisel and a hammer slowly tapping it around but I'm guessing that's not ideal
 
crazypj said:
If you didn't stake the new on it should unscrew real easy without special tool
Staking deforms the tread to prevent things backing off due to vibration/rotation

PJ should you always restake the bearing retainer or could you use Loctite?

I've not done mine yet, so would need to before I rode it.
 
edukaycheon said:
By staking do you mean just taking a metal punch and punching the four points down? The only way I was able to get it out was with a chisel and a hammer slowly tapping it around but I'm guessing that's not ideal

When you remove it, first use a drill and drill the stake points until the deformed metal is removed...Then it will come off relatively easily.

I think 2 stakes are enough, but pick new area to do it....4 if you want to be sure.
 
neevo said:
PJ should you always restake the bearing retainer or could you use Loctite?

I've not done mine yet, so would need to before I rode it.

The stakes can be drilled off, and then the retainer spins "easily". If you loctite it, it will be much harder, likely to be damaged. I would just re-stake it...

I am sure PJ feels the same...
 
I use a 1/8"drill about 1/8" deep to remove the originals.
Tried Loctitie, It works but you have to heat the hub to get retainer ring out 'next time'
Two stake marks are probably easier
 
Got it out easier than the first time, put the bearing spacer in, checked both bearings, wheel's back on the bike and ready to rip tomorrow. It'll be nice to check plug coloration after a longer ride tomorrow as well (knock on wood)
 
crazypj said:
I use a 1/8"drill about 1/8" deep to remove the originals.
Tried Loctitie, It works but you have to heat the hub to get retainer ring out 'next time'
Two stake marks are probably easier

Can you just use a punch in between the hub/retainer to stake them?
 
You stake them with a sharp punch.

You remove the stake by drilling away the punched material.

PJ was telling you not to remove more then the punched material with a 1/8" drill bit.
 
Yep, I haven't read the service manual instructions for a long time but I think they say to use a 1/4" drill at least 1/4" deep
JUst use an ordinary center punch to stake, doesn't even need to be real sharp
 
So when I said I'd take her for a rip today (knock on wood), maybe I actually should have knocked on wood instead of just typing it, I think I got jinxed :mad:

First off, it appears I'm an idiot and my rear brake broke halfway into the ride, didn't tighten something and the linkage came off, hit the road and bent up a bit. Luckily it didn't get stuck closed, so I cautiously tried to nurse her home. Then as I was carefully engine braking and leaving myself room since my front brake isn't too great either, the revs started to drop and before this when I revved the throttle, it sounded like it was bogging down, no pull, just choking up. Pulled in the clutch at the intersection and yep the bike died, so I pushed it around the corner to get out of the way. Right side carb was dripping with gas on the outside, and I didn't want to try to get home at this point so I called my mechanic and he came and picked me and the bike up. I pulled the plugs and surprisingly they looked pretty good, even browning all the way through, no weird discolorations or oily or excessively wet areas. Current theory is that the float needles are getting stuck open, since the little metal clips that control them are prone to getting stuck or shifting around. Do I need to buy new float needle assemblies OEM, or is there a better solution/place to buy?
 
The clips are pretty reliable
Its way mare likely you got a piece of crap in the lines pulling carbs on and off.
Just remove float and shut off valve then spray some carb cleaner though to 'back flush' tilt so fuel inlet is at lowest point, over a paper towel so anything that comes out is easily seen
 
Carb cleaner through the fuel lines? Probably a good idea, will do that. Also I might want to start thinking again about rearsets, since I want to do it down the line anyways, and having the rear brake linkage messed up might provide a good opportunity ???
 
Not through the fuel lines, from the shut off valve backwards to the fuel line connector
You have to pull carbs off again to do it though
 
Didn't/haven't been doing much, lacking motivation and working on the bike is becoming less fun and more stressful, also I'm dealing with some stuff off the bike so that doesn't help my mechanical ability. Looking to get the seat upholstered by someone who knows what they're doing in the meanwhile. Also just want to say I was looking through your mo dumb shit thread PJ, gives me back that itch to get working on the bike and riding again. I've been complaining to my mechanic that riding becomes less fun because every ride is like a test ride and just waiting for something to go wrong, again making the ride less fun and making me more anxious, but your posts definitely lift my spirits. Feel better ASAP, I have some back pain that keeps me up at night but can't imagine what you're going through. Hope to see you back to living up to the crazy in your username soon ;D
 
edukaycheon said:
I've been complaining to my mechanic that riding becomes less fun because every ride is like a test ride and just waiting for something to go wrong, again making the ride less fun and making me more anxious,
How old are you? AND you have already proven to me that, you have what it takes.

You are riding a 37+ year old bike. that has sat rotting in the weeds under a tarp for how long? Has been through how many previous owners doing god knows what to the poor old girl. Every ride IS a test ride. lol...every single one. FOR EVERY SINGLE GUY ON HERE. Do not give up on her. It is a "test" of your patience, your mental capacities to learn yet another new thing about her, To learn what fun she is capable of bringing you when you finally do get her running good. AND YOU WILL. Get her running good. You have what it takes to keep trudging forward. Through the good and the bad. Just dont give up on her. When you're 70 years old, you dont want to look back on this experience as "the one that kicked your ass". You want to look back and say "I did pass that test. If I want something bad enough, I can do it, nothing can kick my ass".

It seems like the first two seasons Something came up w mine every single freakin time I got on her. Now, this year, she will die at a stop light every now and again, And SURE I through a cussing fit under my helmet...but she does fire right back up. And she runs like a mother fucker. And it is fun fun fun. and I feel great about ALL OF IT. I hauled her ass 800+ miles down to Barber in Alabama last fall and I hauled her ass down to Kentucky for the Spring Thaw this year, and now planning the trip back to Barber again w her. This time to put her ass ON THE TRACK.

Stuff I never ever woulda done without her. I am sure you DTT guys out west have tons of stuff going on year round out there. If not. Find out whos near you and plan a meet up. then make the next one further out. Then get a trailer and haul her ass across like 5 or 6 state lines. then cross country to Barber, B-ham Alabama. Its great to have everyone here on DTT. But when you promise these DTT members youre gonna make an appearance ON YOURE BIKE. That will motivate your ass to get her running properly.

I think my engine blew in August and had to be in Alabama first of October. Like 8 or 10 weeks.
thanks again for the help on that PJ.

And I will keep working on her and hauling her down to Barber, until PJ is healthy enough to haul his ass up to Barber so I can shake is hand and buy him a pint or a yard or whatever those guys drink.
 
When I see the stuff Brendon does on his 360 I really am amazed it keeps running
He says it's slower with points than it was with the Dyna ignition, but, as there is a known issue with the Dyna and heat the points are more reliable until I can come up with something better at reasonable cost
When everything finally gets fixed the 360 is more fun than most bikes out there simple because it's so small and light, plus surprisingly quick acceleration for it's size.
It lso handles reasonable well with very minor modifications, you won't believe how much that really pisses of the superbike crowd (and the $10~20,000+ Ducati/Guzzi/MV people ;D ;D )
Even Harley folks get impressed by a 'min-bike' pissing on them through twisty roads 8)
 
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