You've been mostly-dead all day.
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They're actually #10 steel balls, which is smaller than 1/4"
Thanks man! You are always looking out, I really appreciate it!Matnetik has a clutch bearing retainer for sale in his new post:
As far as I know they are unmodified stock. At this point I am ok with less than max performance as I get it going and put around town on it, I just want to keep from damaging anything. I am sure there will be a rejet in the future. Tonight I am going to adjust my mixers to max idle and then bring the main idle to 1200 rpms and see if I notice any changes from my test run last night.I'm not seeing what carbs you're running (unmodified stock, modified stock, Mikuni VM, or what), but the popping means you're a bit lean. If it's unmodified stock, then the more free flowing exhaust means you need to rejet the carbs. May not be enough to cause harm, but you're probably not running at max performance either.
What do you mean setting washers? And thanks for the tip about a lanyard!Some grommets are available from aftermarket dealers, some may still be in Honda's inventory. I've used a Harbor Freight grommet kit for some and hardware store for others. The setting washers can be faked with a flat washer and piece of tubing. Make sure you only lubricate side cover grommets with spit, or you will be searching for new side covers (also lanyard the covers).
I don't know that I had those to begin with? My side covers had rubber grommets in them when I got them but they were just a rubber grommet, I assumed that's all there was to it. They were cracked and brittle and came apart when I tried to remove them for painting. They seem to just press on to a nipple on the frame tab without a nut or any fastener.The washers that go through grommets that have a tube attached to keep you from crushing the grommet.
Also called a collar washer.
There's also a screw with locking nut on top of the cover at the other end of the cable. So three different adjustment points. I am assuming Teazer refers to the screw with locknut that adjusts pressure on the clutch actuator itself when he says "on the motor".Your side covers are a little different than many other bikes which are bolted in place and require that small tube that the OP was talking about. On yours, the cover sides over a "nipple" which holds it in place - most of the time - and doesn't use collars/washers/tubes/dowels.
Clutch adjustment can be hard to get right.
Start by loosening the adjuster at the lever on the bars and where the cable attaches to the motor (if it has a screw fitting there). Then adjust the free play (slack) using only the adjuster on the motor. It only needs a small amount of slack there. Then take out most of the free play in the cable at the motor end of the cable and then do teh final adjustement at teh lever so it has 3-4mm of free play at the hand lever.
The sequence is important.