CB360T resto-rection

Cramer

Member
Ok don’t he same size as the push rod ball? Surely I’m not the first guy to do this but that info has been hard to find lol.
I put 1/4s in as Turnturtle suggested and it seems to work, but I haven’t adjusted anything yet, I have some 5/16s I can also try, I’ll keep you guys posted. Thanks for the help!
 

irk miller

You've been mostly-dead all day.
DTT BOTM WINNER
I could be confusing the push rod sizes, it's been a while. :rolleyes: My question with working it without the carrier is those balls have no way to stay equally spaced out. Eventually one isn't going to fall back in its hole and your clutch won't release. You'll be stuck spinning.
 

Cramer

Member
I repaired an oil leak on my left side cover today. Oil was pouring out of the top of the cover when the motor was turning. After looking at the old gasket it seems that someone replaced it before and didn’t clean the surfaces, there was a chunk of old gasket stuck to the gasket that was leaking.
812B3727-16B3-4501-A2A7-FFC4E49BF777.jpeg

After that I played with the carbs. The mixture screws were both a full three turns out and it wouldn’t idle at all. I turned the mixtures in to 1 1/2 turns and had to turn the idle in 3 full turns before it would even try to run on its own. I got the idle set at 1200 rpms and it runs! It revs, I started it in gear with the clutch in and it didn’t jump! Things are looking up. I am sure the carbs will need played with and some jetting done but from where it was this is a huge leap. The idle does change slightly between gear and neutral.
 

Cramer

Member
It moves under its own power! I got a battery in it last night and ripped it around the neighborhood. It runs well, I will play with the carbs a bit to make sure. The shorty exhaust must be the motorcycle equivalent of glass packs because as soon as I let off the throttle it’s nothing but pop pop pop. I had a blast just riding it around for a few minutes. No issues noted other than sitting at idle the lights do seem to flicker/pulse but brighten right back up with some rpms.
Side note- does anyone know any good side cover grommet options other than the factory rubbers? Maybe a hardware store find?
 

irk miller

You've been mostly-dead all day.
DTT BOTM WINNER
I'm not seeing what carbs you're running (unmodified stock, modified stock, Mikuni VM, or what), but the popping means you're a bit lean. If it's unmodified stock, then the more free flowing exhaust means you need to rejet the carbs. May not be enough to cause harm, but you're probably not running at max performance either.
 

pidjones

Well-Known Member
Some grommets are available from aftermarket dealers, some may still be in Honda's inventory. I've used a Harbor Freight grommet kit for some and hardware store for others. The setting washers can be faked with a flat washer and piece of tubing. Make sure you only lubricate side cover grommets with spit, or you will be searching for new side covers (also lanyard the covers).
 

Cramer

Member
I'm not seeing what carbs you're running (unmodified stock, modified stock, Mikuni VM, or what), but the popping means you're a bit lean. If it's unmodified stock, then the more free flowing exhaust means you need to rejet the carbs. May not be enough to cause harm, but you're probably not running at max performance either.
As far as I know they are unmodified stock. At this point I am ok with less than max performance as I get it going and put around town on it, I just want to keep from damaging anything. I am sure there will be a rejet in the future. Tonight I am going to adjust my mixers to max idle and then bring the main idle to 1200 rpms and see if I notice any changes from my test run last night.
 

Cramer

Member
Some grommets are available from aftermarket dealers, some may still be in Honda's inventory. I've used a Harbor Freight grommet kit for some and hardware store for others. The setting washers can be faked with a flat washer and piece of tubing. Make sure you only lubricate side cover grommets with spit, or you will be searching for new side covers (also lanyard the covers).
What do you mean setting washers? And thanks for the tip about a lanyard!
 

Cramer

Member
The washers that go through grommets that have a tube attached to keep you from crushing the grommet.
Also called a collar washer.
I don't know that I had those to begin with? My side covers had rubber grommets in them when I got them but they were just a rubber grommet, I assumed that's all there was to it. They were cracked and brittle and came apart when I tried to remove them for painting. They seem to just press on to a nipple on the frame tab without a nut or any fastener.
 

Cramer

Member
Well after playing with the mixture last night the popping is MUCH improved. Now my only issue seems to be that I cant get my clutch to fully engage. I have followed the instructions in the service manual, but when I shift into first or start the bike in gear with the handled pulled in, I can feel it trying to move forward.....I adjusted it enough last night that I was confusing myself so I stopped.
 

teazer

Well-Known Member
DTT BOTM WINNER
Your side covers are a little different than many other bikes which are bolted in place and require that small tube that the OP was talking about. On yours, the cover sides over a "nipple" which holds it in place - most of the time - and doesn't use collars/washers/tubes/dowels.

Clutch adjustment can be hard to get right.

Start by loosening the adjuster at the lever on the bars and where the cable attaches to the motor (if it has a screw fitting there). Then adjust the free play (slack) using only the adjuster on the motor. It only needs a small amount of slack there. Then take out most of the free play in the cable at the motor end of the cable and then do teh final adjustement at teh lever so it has 3-4mm of free play at the hand lever.

The sequence is important.
 

irk miller

You've been mostly-dead all day.
DTT BOTM WINNER
Your side covers are a little different than many other bikes which are bolted in place and require that small tube that the OP was talking about. On yours, the cover sides over a "nipple" which holds it in place - most of the time - and doesn't use collars/washers/tubes/dowels.

Clutch adjustment can be hard to get right.

Start by loosening the adjuster at the lever on the bars and where the cable attaches to the motor (if it has a screw fitting there). Then adjust the free play (slack) using only the adjuster on the motor. It only needs a small amount of slack there. Then take out most of the free play in the cable at the motor end of the cable and then do teh final adjustement at teh lever so it has 3-4mm of free play at the hand lever.

The sequence is important.
There's also a screw with locking nut on top of the cover at the other end of the cable. So three different adjustment points. I am assuming Teazer refers to the screw with locknut that adjusts pressure on the clutch actuator itself when he says "on the motor".
 

trek97

No Custom Title
DTT BOTM WINNER
Just a note, In the above pic. You got the stator w cover hanging by the stators wires. The three wires are crazy fragile.
If it now has power issues (dont charge battery). Unplug the connection and test stator w multimeter.
Set meter to ohms. And test between all three leads, you should get three readings at or near 1.0 ohm each.
If any are crazy high or open. Theres a broken wire or three. they can be fixed or you will have to buy a new stator.
 

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