Cb450 new coil. Weak spark!

NO. Red cables from DYNA connect to switched 12v. It looks like a stock CB450 has Black/white to the coils with power and the other side of the coils is Blue and Yellow.

So blue would go to one DYNA lead Back or white or whatever color yours have and yellow to the other pickup. The red DYNA leads would connect to that B/W lead from the coils.

Is that how yours are connected?

It looks like solid black is 12v from the main switch to the kill switch and it's B/W from there to the coils. So it's B/W you want to connect it to as the POWER side

DYNA pickups don't ground through the leads but through the backing plates. The place they are mounted on the motor must be clean with a good solid connection. If it's nicely insulated on a gasket with screws with insulating washers it won't work.

You could try a lead from the dyna backing plate/cam box end to a solid connection on the frame as an engine ground. I usually run a lead that is connected to one of the screws on the backing plate and I run that back to the frame to make sure I have a solid system ground.

BTW do not leave the power on for extended time while you do all this fault finding or it will burn things out.
 
Here's what i've follow for the Dyna-s :https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=explorer&chrome=true&srcid=1d16TmndGPV5pKbNa2bWAGhRFR7VHF71wWjihVaNZTLSlI6GUyeeoHXPvem-F&hl=fr

BTW... I'm such a dumb that I tought that the black cable was ground... so its power right... I check my black cable and the cable is providing 12.66v on ON ignition... shit... I'll try to test the dyna-s ignition outside of the circuit, but I don't have cables to test it on the battery. Will try to find some... thanks for your help...


BTW how come do I have a close cirtcuit when I put the switch off?... Black cable give me a ground at that time... F* I think I messed up somewhere with my ground and + connection...​
 
Easy mistake to make.

We don't often come across electrical devices with three connection, power, coil and ground where ground is through teh base plate, but that's how these work.

Black is power straight from the ignition switch
Black with White trace is power from the Kill switch and that's where you should be getting power. That's what should be connected to the coils, but check to be 100% sure.

I don't have a CB450 here to trace wires, but if the coils have black/white wire from the kill switch I would use that. Check the coils and flick the kill switch and see if they still have power or if they "go dark".

If you were closer I'd tell you to bring the bike over here - it would be quicker. LOL ;-)
 
Re: Re: Cb450 new coil. Weak spark!

teazer said:
Easy mistake to make.

We don't often come across electrical devices with three connection, power, coil and ground where ground is through teh base plate, but that's how these work.

Black is power straight from the ignition switch
Black with White trace is power from the Kill switch and that's where you should be getting power. That's what should be connected to the coils, but check to be 100% sure.

I don't have a CB450 here to trace wires, but if the coils have black/white wire from the kill switch I would use that. Check the coils and flick the kill switch and see if they still have power or if they "go dark".

If you were closer I'd tell you to bring the bike over here - it would be quicker. LOL ;-)
Click to expand...
Ok so just to resume if I understand. I black is connected to red dyna and black white to my power coil right?

Sent from my Nexus One
 
Almost....

Connect both DYNA red leads to the black and white that goes to the coils from the kill switch.

Where did the black lead come from anyway?

What color are the power leads to the coils on your bike?
 
Maybe It'll be more clear with a draw :D paint FTW!

So here's my current setup:


a.png

So if I understand correctly now, you want me to plug the red wires to the same wire (B/W) as the coils? Like so?:


b.png
 
You got it. That way if you stop the bike with the kill switch and leave the power on at the switch you won't burn out the DYNA pickups. It's not a biggie, but it's better that way.

What you can't see in that drawing is the ground connections for the DYNA. The backing plate has to have a solid connection to ground - usually though the motor. It's a good idea to run a ground from the DYNA plate to a solid clean frame ground.
 
teazer said:
You got it. That way if you stop the bike with the kill switch and leave the power on at the switch you won't burn out the DYNA pickups. It's not a biggie, but it's better that way.

What you can't see in that drawing is the ground connections for the DYNA. The backing plate has to have a solid connection to ground - usually though the motor. It's a good idea to run a ground from the DYNA plate to a solid clean frame ground.
Click to expand...

Ok I'll test the ground of the DYNA backplate first. And after I'll test the Dyna itself... hope I didn't burned it...
 
Use your multimeter to test (on resistance scale) from the backing plate to battery ground terminal. You want a really low number.

A DYNA S acts like a switch. It has transistors and all the electronic gimmickery in that tiny pod and as the magnet passes, it opens or closes the gate to allow power to flow through the coil to ground. So that backing plate is the coil ground as well as the DYNA ground Q.E.D. it's important.
 
teazer said:
Use your multimeter to test (on resistance scale) from the backing plate to battery ground terminal. You want a really low number.

A DYNA S acts like a switch. It has transistors and all the electronic gimmickery in that tiny pod and as the magnet passes, it opens or closes the gate to allow power to flow through the coil to ground. So that backing plate is the coil ground as well as the DYNA ground Q.E.D. it's important.
Click to expand...

If its dead, it'll show 0? From backing to ground what ever position the rotor is in?
 
All that checks is the ground. It doesn't tell us anything about the DYNA modules.

Do that test with the ignition OFF.

Infinity means open circuit, zero would mean a perfect connection - not in this lifetime. So we want to see a very small number - say 0.1 -0.4ohms. Something like that. Touch your meter leads together and zero the gauge if possible or take not of the reading if it's not adjustable.

That reminds me, what happens when you turn the ignition off? Do the plugs spark - every time, sometimes, never?
 
Ok... who ever sead that it was the iridum spark plug is a god and the winner... I'll buy the beer!!!

DAMN Iridium!!!


I tried your test by moving the rotor of the DYNA by hand and heard a TICK! Much easier to ear it by moving the rotor instead of cranking the engine like crazy.
Iridium plug had TINNY spark... and instead of being located where its supposed to be... it was sparking at the botom of the insulator to the casing of the spark plug... Don't ask why...


Plugged in a new normal plug and spark is happening at the right spot on the plug!

Now I must pick up some fresh spark and we'll try to start it tomorrow!!!


THANKS EVERYONE!!
 
teazer said:
All that checks is the ground. It doesn't tell us anything about the DYNA modules.

Do that test with the ignition OFF.

Infinity means open circuit, zero would mean a perfect connection - not in this lifetime. So we want to see a very small number - say 0.1 -0.4ohms. Something like that. Touch your meter leads together and zero the gauge if possible or take not of the reading if it's not adjustable.

That reminds me, what happens when you turn the ignition off? Do the plugs spark - every time, sometimes, never?
Click to expand...

I'll buy you a beer to :D
 
crazypj said:
Get some standard plugs to set it up.
The iridium are resistor plugs, are you using resistor plug caps with them?
What resistance caps? (5 or 10 K/ohm?)
Your not using carbon 'performance' leads? (they also have specific resistance per foot)
What jetting is in the VM32?
It's probably too rich as NO ONE supplies them correctly 'out of the box'
Click to expand...

I'm from Wales, I know nothin ;)

Iridium plugs ARE NOT PERFORMANCE ENHANCERS
They were made to last 100,000 miles in stock engines.
I'm not impressed with them, 'normal' fine wire electrode plugs do the same job at less than half the cost but last 'only' about 40,000 miles.
If you get better performance with iridium plugs, there was something wrong with ignition system before you started and you would see same 'increase' with 'race' plugs (gold palladium, platinum, etc)
 
To add to crazypj those "fine wire" plugs try B8EG or B8EGV, Im running the B8EGV's because i had some spares kicking around from a dirt bike, they seem to work well?!?!?
 
Garage_guy_chris said:
To add to crazypj those "fine wire" plugs try B8EG or B8EGV, Im running the B8EGV's because i had some spares kicking around from a dirt bike, they seem to work well?!?!?
Click to expand...
So B8EG are gonna be better than my iridum and better than stock? or should I go stock?
 
Stock are cheaper, EG are better - when it's running right, they will spark at a lower voltage, less chance of miss-fire at high rpm
Burn the stock plugs clean (hold 'cap' end with a pliers and use propane torch/blowlamp on electrode end until 'porcelain' is clean)
If it's still hard to start, fit them while hot and try it (make sure you have a spark first)
 
Here's an update... it wasnt the plugs... I bought a spark tester dans sometime the spark gets lost... if the HV wire is near the ground... I can hear it going trough the wire, but couln't see it.

I can't even go to the 20k volt mark on my tool... and sometime even with the tool the spark leakes somewhere.

Ok so back to basic... electricity take the shortest path right? So how can I keep the spark in the wire?!?
 
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