CB550 build in Texas, just getting started

Re: Re: CB550 build in Texas, just getting started

work9to5 said:
Redliner's right, dont go to pods until you get the carbs sorted and tuned! I did the opposite (a 550 78') with my build and it caused me 4 weeks of frustrations, waiting for different sized jetts to come in. With those exhaust I'm guessing someones already messed with your jet size. I doubt you have factory standards in there. Also just an fyi honda did alot of switching of carb models on the 550 (even in the middle of the production year), figure out exactly which carb you have right away. This is just a guess, but from the look of that bike somebody who knew motorcycles owned that thing. Your tanks painted (hopefully that means there's no rust in there, cross your fingers and get a flashlight in there right away), there's a #2 on your #2 plug wire (somebody with exp. has touched that engine), your pipes r they just open (no baffle/ i.e.-non standarding jetting)? Your petcock should have one out going to #2 carb. I'm just finishing a full engine rebuild on mine, have rebuilt and re-jetted carbs on it three times and put 5,000 miles on it in the past year whenever i get it outta the shop (not in pieces) if you have any questions shoot em out there. And best advice i can give you, HAVE PATIENCE'S and plan it out!
Yes the previous owner knew what he was doing. Had four bikes from this era in his garage cafed out. so I'm missing a couple things. Part of buying a parts bike I guess.

sent from a pit stop
 
As for the starter I'll borrow the battery from my ruckus for the electric start.

sent from a pit stop
 
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I'm getting there
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For the love of Swayze and all else that is holy, do NOT muck up your float posts!!!

I gather that you are indeed being very patient, but these float pins have a way of testing that.

Tip 1: Do not hammer on the pins. Tapping with something light (ideally a jewelers mallet or pocket mallet) should shake things up.

Tip 2: Sometimes the pins will go out one way easier than the other way. So continue to tap both ways until you find which works best.

The last time I built carbs that had that much oxidation inside, I ended up just drilling out the pins and replacing them on one or two carbs. You may have to do the same, so expect that.
 
Yeah I'm being patient with it. No rush as I'm still waiting for the rebuild kit in the mail.

sent from a pit stop
 
Might have to soak the whole Carb, float included. Just not getting those pins loose

sent from a pit stop
 
Yeah go ahead and just soak them a while. Takes less work when the carb dip does it for you.
 
If you soak them too long in Berrymans, it will do strange things to the aluminum carb bodies. They come out looking oxidized.
 
How about four black floats? Haha. Dipping today as well as installing all the stuff from DCC and eBay. My Haynes and clynes manuals should be in the mail as well

sent from a pit stop
 
Well the soak worked, kinda. Definitely cleaner but I bow I have three working floats, one that wiggles, and one stuck. i also ordered the wrong size petcock from eBay. But got some rust solvent and I'll try to tackle the gas tank tomorrow. Should have a battery and new plug wires in the mail right now.
 
Still trying to get more movement from the floats; or get the pins out. I've been trying to force the floats to move in order to free up the pins but I don't wanna break the float bracket. Any suggestions?
 
Have you tried some penetrants?

Again, tapping with a pocket mallet both ways will normally work it out in one direction or the other.

As long as you don't get in a hurry, everything will turn out fine :D
 
Try a few drops of PB blast and let it sit. Then a few more drops. Pretty easy by just barely fiddling with the spray tip. The idea is to basically keep dropping fluid on the pins for a few hours and let it work its magic.

Don't bother with Evaporust here. The only internal carb components that contain any metal are the float pins and maybe the needle valve.
 
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