Cheap Aluminum Rims From Thailand

OJ

OJ

Been Around the Block
Do you guys used cheap aluminum rims, such as these ones on ebay, on your builds? If yes, are they any good in your opinion?

I am assuming almost any rim is better/safer than some old rusted out rim. I'm also thinking, that loosing unsuspended weight off the rims would improve the ride. Loosing weight off the rims appears to make a difference on bicycles and cars, so maybe weight loss would help on motorcycle as well.
 
People here have spoken of the alloys from MikesXS.com as good bang for the buck. No personal experience; just passing it on. You can search the site for info.
 
I would need to pay shipping on Excel as well or pay steep prices at local shops. The price difference is at least $200 between thai rims and Excels.

Edit: I have checked Mike's XS site as well. Bit more money, but probably much more service if needed.
 
See my build. I bought the MikeXS rims. If you buy 2, free shipping over $150. Mine were $160 for 2, shipped. They are also stamped DOT approved.

They are the best bang for the buck.
 
Need to look into MikeXS rims before biying anytjing.

How's the ride? Do you notice a difference compared to steel rims?
 
No difference. They are round, hold the tire on.

What I like is they will not rust and are a little lighter.




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If your going to all the trouble of 'doing rims' go 1 size wider (from WM1 to Wm2 on front and from WM2 thWM3 on rear)
Tyres fit better and handling improves
 
crazypj said:
If your going to all the trouble of 'doing rims' go 1 size wider (from WM1 to Wm2 on front and from WM2 thWM3 on rear)
Tyres fit better and handling improves
Click to expand...

Exactly what I did too...good advice. The motorcycle Mfg's put on the smallest, narrowest rim that would fit the "Stock" tire. That's why so many people get detrimental handling effects when they go up a size tire. A wide tire on a narrow rim has less stability....

Here's Some info CrazyPJ gave me in the past. The gray areas are acceptable uses of the combo. :
 

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Added your pic to my collection. this question is asked daily...maybe we should collect them and make a sticky....
 
So is there any benefit in having differing tire profiles front and rear?

For example, in the world of downhill (offroad) bicycling, we often use a rounder tire profile in front and a square-er tire profile in the rear, but the dymanics are obviously quite different, and we're frequently sliding the rear of the bike around. And unlike a motorcycle, our front tire is usually larger than the rear.

Just wondering if there were any similar principles to follow on the street with a motorbike...

Edit: Thanks for the chart, by the way--have been planning on doing WM3s front and rear on my Enfield, which takes stock 3.25 f/3.5 r.
 
That's because you are heading downhill and all the weight is transferred forward, completely different on a motorcycle. The different tire profiles advantages are in turn in and traction between the front and rear, they both have different jobs to do. I don't know of any bikes that run the same size and profile front and rear.
 
o1marc said:
That's because you are heading downhill and all the weight is transferred forward, completely different on a motorcycle. The different tire profiles advantages are in turn in and traction between the front and rear, they both have different jobs to do. I don't know of any bikes that run the same size and profile front and rear.
Click to expand...

Right, of course the dynamics are different...was wondering what the particular profiles desired on a streetbike are.

(What has me thinking is that if I use a WM3 front and rear with a 3.25/3.5 combo, the rear tire will actually be rounder than the front, which seems odd to me. Should I use a WM2 front/WM3 rear?)
 
Most motorcycles don't run the same size rim front and rear. If you put a 3.50 on the WM3 you will be squeezing the sidewalls more than the 3.25 and therefore will have a different profile. I would run a wider rim and bigger tire on the rear.
 
Good info. Once I find an OK pair of hubs, I will try to build a second set of wheels. And I will mount correct size tyres on as currently I'm running oversize rubbers on stock rims (100/90 and 110/90).
 
Just remember that wider tires slow the handling down. If you are only interested in the aesthetics ( looks) and don't care about handling, then go wide. I like the agility of the smaller bike. My nh750 is so much slower handling then the 360. Like going from a Buick to a Miata. You can chose your own path, but I will never understand why many chose poor handling on these bikes. I always thought faster was the goal rather than 'look faster'. It it like those huge turbo wings on a base level 4 door civic. It really isn't making the car faster.


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I bought my tyres before I read about tyres here, and the main selection criteria was low cost, but not the cheapest Duro tires. I would choose different tyres this time around and if I get new wheels or rims, I'll pick better size for the tires.
 
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