CJ360 - what rearsets that wont need bent kicker?

[stephen.archibald]

Hey guys, first post here. First build on a 1977 CJ360.

Looking at rearsets, now I'm confused. Could anyone answer where and when these things are a factor:

-Some manufactures say kicker will need to be heated and bent, others say no mods needed.

-folded versus non folded pegs, Straight lever versus offset levers.

-some say theirs alleviate bump braking concerns while other mention nothing.

Is there a consensus on a few "go-to" products that you guys would recommend?

 

[irk miller]

Bump braking is going to happen if the brake actuator is too far from the swingarm pivot. Whether they should fold depends a lot of lean angle. I've done both. If there's a go-to brand, it's probably Woodcraft, but nothing specific to 360s afaik.

 

[stephen.archibald]

I'm still learning. It's nice to have a helpful response, thank you!

 

[Tim]

I used Tarozzi rearsets on my cafe with custom brackets I had made up (XS650). You'll likely find there aren't many bolt-on kits or if there are, they're expensive.

What have you looked at so far? Bending the kicker isn't that big a deal, and if you can't do it at home a local shop could likely take care of it for you easily.

 

[MrMister]

75 CL360. I got mine from dcc. I did end up ordering 1 foldable peg for the right side just because I kept hitting my ankle during kickstart. But the clearance was fine otherwise. I did get it like 5 years ago, so I don’t know if they’ve changed their rearset recipe since then.


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[MrMister]

Speedmotoco has a bolt on for cb360. Looks very similar to the one I got from dimecitycycles back then.


Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON

 

[teazer]

Lots of good comments already. With rearset pegs, a stock kickstart lever will often hit the rider's right peg and the solution is usually to offer a folding peg to move it out of the swing or bend the kickstart lever so it misses that contact. Both solutions have advantages and disadvantages as you might expect.

A third solution is to keep thr electric foot and remove the kickstart lever. I have done that on a few builds and on others I usually heat and bend the lever to get enough clearance.

I used to be a kickstart only sort of rider/builder but now I prefer to push a button like all modern bikes. It cleans up the look and makes starting easier.

 

[stephen.archibald]

I was looking at the rear sets from slipstream cycle works, https://slipstreamcycle.com/shop/ols/search?keywords=Cb360&sortOption=descend_by_match

They state that they are specifically for the cb360, and that they have worked out the bump braking issue with their kit.

I'll check out the recommendations from speedmotoco and DCC that you recommend. Question, did you have to mess around much with the rear drum brake linkage one those kits?

 

[irk miller]

If Slipstream is still making rear sets, then that is a good option.

 

[Rider52]

I've been to the Slip Stream shop and the products are very high quality. However, I don't know if he is still building motorcycle parts. The last update on his FB page was 2017. He was building a new shop and does a lot of machine work for power plants. I'd suggest giving him a call before ordering on the website.

 

[stephen.archibald]

I wrote him an email and he responded back within a day so apparently he's making parts. I think I'll try his rear sets

 

[Rider52]

I wrote him an email and he responded back within a day so apparently he's making parts. I think I'll try his rear sets

I think you will be pleased with them.

 

[crazypj]

I used a pair of passenger pegs off (I think?) a GSX-R so I would have spring loaded folders. You need something to hold right side up during starting.
I also made linkage to use stock pivot point for rear brake. Pictures are somewhere in my 'Build to blog' thread. Everything got tidied up a bit since I took pics though

 

[J-Rod10]

I've been to the Slip Stream shop and the products are very high quality. However, I don't know if he is still building motorcycle parts. The last update on his FB page was 2017. He was building a new shop and does a lot of machine work for power plants. I'd suggest giving him a call before ordering on the website.

I don't do much Facebook. But, building more rear sets than ever. Added another milling center for them recently.

 

[Tim]

I don't do much Facebook. But, building more rear sets than ever. Added another milling center for them recently.

For the rods you have in some of your sets, do you drill/tap the ends of stock aluminum rod or can you buy threaded aluminum tubing ready-made? I need to do a brake rod for my rigid project and am thinking of using aluminum rod with rod ends at each end to keep it simple and adjustable.

 

[J-Rod10]

For the rods you have in some of your sets, do you drill/tap the ends of stock aluminum rod or can you buy threaded aluminum tubing ready-made? I need to do a brake rod for my rigid project and am thinking of using aluminum rod with rod ends at each end to keep it simple and adjustable.

I buy sticks of 3/8" round stock. Cut to length, drill/tap for M6 heim joints in the lathes.

 

[Tim]

I buy sticks of 3/8" round stock. Cut to length, drill/tap for M6 heim joints in the lathes.

That's sort of what I figured but was holding out hope that maybe there was pre-made material out there already threaded.

 

[J-Rod10]

No shortage of people running all-thread and female heim joints. I don't like it, aesthetically, but it's functional I guess.

That's sort of what I figured but was holding out hope that maybe there was pre-made material out there already threaded.

 

[irk miller]

For the rods you have in some of your sets, do you drill/tap the ends of stock aluminum rod or can you buy threaded aluminum tubing ready-made? I need to do a brake rod for my rigid project and am thinking of using aluminum rod with rod ends at each end to keep it simple and adjustable.

This is how I did it on my XS chopper, Tim. I ran threaded rod through tubing. You can get machineable tubing from somewhere like McMaster-Carr that has thicker walls, so you can get it closer to the ID and OD you need.

 

[Tim]

This is how I did it on my XS chopper, Tim. I ran threaded rod through tubing. You can get machineable tubing from somewhere like McMaster-Carr that has thicker walls, so you can get it closer to the ID and OD you need.

Yeah I thought maybe I'd use a length of threaded rod and simply sleeve it for aesthetic purposes. I'm assuming you did that for the brake stay being thicker, but the brake rod itself looks like thinner material and threaded on each end?

My brake stay will likely just be a length of flat stock but I do like the look of your setup.