cl360 idling on one cylinder/ valve adjust help

[johnny gaijin]

put mikunis and pod filters on my cl360 have it jetted well, i think. have only had them for a couple months and just double checked to make sure the jets weren't plugged.

checked the timing and it's a little off but the base plate was sticking and i couldn't get it to move in really small increments.

i haven't ever adjusted the valves so i'm going to try to do that next but i'm not sure if that would cause this issue anyway.

i used a wire to match the slide height/ idle screw adjustment on both carbs but it still idled on only one cylinder. so i dialed in the idle adjustment on the one that wasn't running and it started working. figured i had it solved but then today it was back to only idling on one cylinder again.

it runs great other than idle.

any suggestions?

 

[crazypj]

Re: cl360 idling on one cylinder

You need timing correct before you mess with carbs.
It sounds like they are out of sync though.
You can't get carbs synced correctly until you know valve clearance and timing are right

 

[teazer]

Re: cl360 idling on one cylinder

Are you adjusting the idle mixture screws or the idle speed screw that holds up the slide? try to screw the idle speed screw in slight to raise the dile speed and then tweak the mixture screws to get the best running and then back the speed screws down to the right idle speed.

 

[johnny gaijin]

decided to try adjusting the valves today. didn't get very far.

shop manual kind of blows.

so i turn the engine until i can see the valve that i want to adjust go all the way down and then start to come up. then i turn the engine until it gets to L.T. (assuming i'm working on the left)

right so far?

then i measure the gap. what gap? where do i put the feeler guage?

a little help would be much appreciated.

the directions for adjusting the timing chain are confusing too. can someone explain to me where to turn the engine to to adjust the chain?

thanks guys, i've never done either of these things so sorry for the bone headed questions.

 

[frogman]

Lemme simplify, in order to adjust the valves you have to set them when they are loose. IE at TDC on the cylinder you are working one. SO forget what the manual says about where, just pull the plugs, and tappet caps and watch while you turn the engine. Wait for the intake on the side you are working on to push down then come back up. THAT'S BDC on that side. Now turn the engine and if you can stick your finger over the plug hole and feel for when air stops coming out of the hole. That is close enough to top to do the adjustment.

Start with the intake, loosen the nut and back the screw out until you can slide the correct feeler gauge under the screw between the bottom of it and the top of the valve stem. Then Tighten the screw until you just feel it snug up. Then pull out the gauge and try to put in the next WHOLE size up. So with the intakes being .002" try to stick the .003" in. IF you can FULLY get it to go through then you are still a little loose. IF it just barely starts but won't slide in all the way you are gold. You want the .002" to slide under with just a slight amount of force but not to0 much. The tricky part is tightening the jam nut without moving the screw. A few times messing with it and you will get it. Now do the exhausts the same way, check with a .004". Then spin the motor over a few times and measure things again.

Now start over with finding the TDC on the other side and go to town on it. Remember a little loose is better than a little tight in this case. If they are too tight once the engine heats up you may loose compression due to the fact the valves may not be closing fully and you are wearing parts out faster as well.

The CAM chain is supposed to be set with the valves all closed. That is at ONE spot, 90 degrees PAST TDC on the the compression stroke on the LEFT side. Then you loosen the jam nut on the tensioner bolt, then loosen the bolt and maybe lightly tap that area with hammer handle in case the thing is stuck. Then tighten everything back up. OR, like I do when I am in a hurry, start the engine let it warm up and while it is idling, loosen the tensioner bolts and tighten back up. IF the chain was loose you will hear a change in how the engine sounds.

Hope that helps.

 

[frogman]

OH YEAH, and the little plate that sets the timing. if you cram a Phillips screw driver into the spot where the tab sticks out up towards the top you can twist the driver and get the slow adjustment. The right side still sucks but you can use a flat head screw driver to do the same.

 

[johnny gaijin]

feeler gauge under the screw between the bottom of it and the top of the valve stem.

here's how much i don't know:

is the valve stem the thingy coming from one o'clock in my photo?

OH YEAH, and the little plate that sets the timing. if you cram a Phillips screw driver into the spot where the tab sticks out up towards the top you can twist the driver and get the slow adjustment. The right side still sucks but you can use a flat head screw driver to do the same.

something's getting caught up on mine, i'll need to pull it all the way off and see why it's not turning. i basically had to pull it out a little, turn it, and push it back in.

 

[GLENNWOOD55CAMEO]

That is the rocker arm. The valve stem comes up through the spring and touches the rocker arm. If you loosen the lock nut and turn the slotted bolt counterclock wise the rocker arm will loosen up. You them put the feeler guage between the rocker arm and the valve stem. Then you adjust them the way frogman says...........

 

[teazer]

This is what we're talking about

http://www.askjeffwilliams.com/uploads/Image/Honda%20Civic%20Valve%20Adjustment%20006.JPG

http://nonderivative.com/motorcycles/crf230valveclearance/16.JPG

http://nonderivative.com/motorcycles/crf230valveclearance/18.JPG

 

[teazer]

BTW, the motor rotates two full tunes for one complete cycle. That means it's at T or LT twice. On one revolution, both valves are open at that time and on teh other revolution they are both closed. That's where you set the valves.

 

[johnny gaijin]

thanks for all the help guys. i did the left intake no problem, had to loosen the screw just a little. then on the left exhaust i couldn't get my gauge in so i kept backing off the screw. i eventually had to back it off several turns before i could get the gauge in and it felt right.
then the right side intake and exhaust both seemed good w/o adjustment.

i'm worried about that left side exhaust though. i checked it twice and it seems good but the screw is much further out than on the other side:

does this seem weird? i haven't fired it up yet because i don't know if i fucked up and i don't want to blow up my engine or something.

 

[frogman]

Yeah to be honest it looks like the valve was slightly open when you did the adjustment. May roll the motor over slowly and watch that rocker and see when it does it's down/up cycle fully then wiggle it and see how loose it is. I would get that side back at TDC on the compression stroke and see if you are off, because I bet you are.

 

[johnny gaijin]

yup. didn't realize you're supposed to do both intake and exhaust at the same time. i was advancing the engine before doing the exhaust for whatever reason. fixed. thanks again.